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pankaj_dubey1

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  1. pankaj_dubey1

    Shikara ride

    Artist: ©PMD; Exposure Date: 2015:07:23 16:02:38; Copyright: ©Pankaj Dubey 2015; Make: NIKON CORPORATION; Model: NIKON Df; ExposureTime: 1/80 s; FNumber: f/11; ISOSpeedRatings: 100; ExposureProgram: Aperture priority; ExposureBiasValue: 0/1; MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire; FocalLength: 18 mm; FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 18 mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5.7 (Macintosh);

    © b3sphoto

  2. <p>I have a Canon EOS 1200D and I find it very easy to use. I had Nikon D3300 and I had to read the manual(canon manual was easier as well).I ended up buying Nikon Df and I love it and the reading that goes with it.<br> Regarding freebies, the first Canon workshop I attended- I got a free Canon cap and now after 4 workshops Nikon has given us free "I am Nikon " sticker and an inferior quality cap :D</p> <p>I still feel - head to head- as a beginner, Canon 1200D was much easier to use the the Nikon D3300.</p>
  3. <p>thanks,<br> Yes it was the greenish cast that was the problem.<br> I was shooting RA+JPEG fine but good to know that RAW is not affected as much by in camera white balance.</p>
  4. <p>I am new at this but the problem was with green in a fluorescent lighting.<br> By hit an trial, worked out that exposure by -1 and picture control setting of fuji reala was closest to the what I saw with my eyes.<br> Thanks</p>
  5. <p>Thanks Nick, somewhere,somehow I forgot this differentiation.</p>
  6. <p>After having the exposure corrected and white balance set with expodisc, I still could not get the colours to get proper while chimping.They were too bright and saturated.<br> Silly me , don't know why , I had set my monitor brightness to +5, changing it to zero and the colours look as they should.<br> �</p>
  7. <p>This pdf is not made available by ISI but by another oragnization under the RTI rule of 2009.<br> The ISI version is 211 rupees(USD 3).</p> <p> </p>
  8. <p>Sorry, I have to start a new thread but I had read somewhere that the ISO ANSI standard of 1974 for calculating metering is a paid document .<br> I have found the equivalent free Indian standards Institute document which claims to be based on ANSI 2720:1974<br> .<br> It is here:<br> ive.org/download/gov.in.is.10917.1984/is.10917.1984.pdf</p> <p>I have not been able to find the 2011 revision of the NASI document.<br> HTH</p> <p>Pankaj</p>
  9. <p>..and growing :)<br> Interesting article about using your hands to assess focal length of the lens to be used.<br> http://www.dslrsolutions.net/3298/using-your-hands-as-focal-length-calculator/</p> <p>Two hands wide at an arms length is 50mm lens (full frame).</p> <p>HTH</p> <p>Pankaj</p>
  10. <p>Has anyone tried a pocket folding hair comb for this.<br /> http://www.mensdirect.com/product/Kent-Mens-Folding-Pocket-Comb-82T/tools-hair-brushes-combs<br /> or<br /> a Quilling comb like this which is 3.9 inches wide.<br> http://www.amazon.com/Quilled-Creations-309-Quilling-Comb/dp/B001689MVI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410688433&sr=8-1&keywords=paper+quilling+combs<br> <br /> The pupillary distance could be marked on the comb by looking in the mirror and then measuring the distance.<br /> Once that is done, then the distance markings(as calculated by the program) be put on the bristles and the bristles between two marks removed.<br /> The handheld comb would be convenient to hold and fold when not in use.<br /> If instead of arms length, one enters the length at which the comb is held with the arm straight and comfortable then one can comfortably and effectively use this.<br /> ..and unlike me, if you have any hair left worth combing- the infinity end of the scale can be used for that as well :)</p> <p>I will try and jig this over next week or so.</p> <p>Pankaj</p>
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