p_elcock

<p>If you want to load your film in daylight then get hold of a Rondinax 35 for 35mm film or a Rondinax 60 for 120 film. These are daylight loading tanks and you don't need a darkroom or even a changing bag to process film. They are not made anymore but come up on Ebay regularly. Youtube has a good video.<br> I use these for all my back and white, I've even done C41 colour in them and they work very well.</p>

<p>I've got a Rolleiflex MX-EVS, a Rolleiflex T and a Yashica 124G and image quality is similar but the one I normally pick up is the MX as it just feels more solid/reliable. THE Yashica is the youngest by a long way but the film advance crank etc feels fragile, the dial on the base you turn to open the back is cumbersome, and the for the T, the shutter/aperture lever is awkward.</p>

<p>Hi, I use the 4490 for all my film types 35 b/w, 120 b/w, colour neg and slide. THE Epsom software was ok unless the neg was very over or under exposed, then it wouldn't scan at all. Then after upgrading my Mac os, it wouldn't work at all. I'm now using Vuescan, which is a bit more clunky to use but scans much better. Here's an image from a ZORKI 4 50mm Jupiter HP5 dev in Ilfosol3<br> I got the scanner for £50 on ebay and I'm not complaining!</p><div></div>

<p>I use a Rolleiflex mx 3.5 and Yashicamat 124g both under $250 on ebay and both take lovely images.<br> BUT I found a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 518/16 folding 120 camera c1950s in a charity shop for $40 and I love it! The image quality is great. Half the bulk and weight of the TLRs. For a cheap introduction to MF, it's a no brainer. There are loads around.<br> I've included an image taken with my Nettar using expired fujichrome and scanned with a epsom 4490. No photoshop used.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi everyone, just to confuse you all I have just developed a 120 roll of tmax 400 in 1:25 rodinal 4'15" at 22 deg in a Rondinax 60 tank, which needs continuous agitation. I've got some pleasing results.<br> Normally I use Hp5 or FP4 and I have tried 1:50,1:100 stand and 1:25 dilutions, both 35mm and 120. My go to tanks are the Rondinax type, I've even done the stand dev in these. I reduce dev times by 15% from the massive dev chart for continuous agitatation.<br> Whichever way I chose Rodinal delivers, My only failings are my sunny 16 guestimates using my Rolleiflex or Ziess Ikon Nettar, are sometimes way off!<br> In summary in my experience and reading everyone elses experiences, Rodinal just 'works'. Its very forgiving and even has a great shelf life. I'm glad I found it!</p><div></div>

<p>Image from same scanner but fresh fix.</p><div></div>

<p>Wow Martin, that's impressive, I've just developed a 120 FP4 with Rodinal 1:50 dil and fresh Ilford and scanned it and this is much better. There's limited editing on iPhoto so blemish removal is a bit basic. I'll try and fins something mac-compatible.<br /> Anyway, thanks for advice, I'm going to use fresh fix for the next few rolls to make sure. I'd never of thought of old fix contaminating the emulsion.</p>

<p>Hi, I've returned to film and develop and scan my own black and white and colour. I picked up a EPSOM 4490 film scanner for less than£50 on ebay and get good results for 35 and120 film.<br> Developing your own is significantly cheaper. If you're not confident, lots of local Art Schools and FE colleges still offer courses. Good luck!</p>

<p>thanks for info, I'm developing a roll with fresh fix to compare. Here is another image -from a different roll -with an even more marked effect. Does that confirm eveyone's suspicions?</p><div></div>

<p>Hi, I've noticed on several films that I have developed in recent months a speckled snow storm effect on many of my images. It almost looks like the neg is very dusty ,but they're not.I use HP5 and FP4 either with ilfosol 3 1:9 or Rodial 1:50.<br> I scan them on a EPSOM 4490 into my mac. IPHOTO.<br> I'm not sure if its my developing technique or the scan. It is not present on all scans. i scan 120 velvia and that's ok.</p><div></div>