osamu

<p>anders, thanks for sharing this. i enjoyed viewing them. i wish i could see them in person. but, hey, thanks; i am not in paris.</p>

<p>a touch from the past</p><div></div>

<p>oil rig in the night</p><div></div>

<p>based on what you say what kind of photography you do and the fact that you burned k20d, i think k5 or k5ii might be your choice. the major difference between k20d and k5's is the low light photography. you can take sharp photographs using iso 1600. that is like inside shooting. even night photography. i upgraded my k7 for that reason (some years ago). for variable lens, i like my 16-45mm. but, i hardly ever use zoom any more.</p>

<p>i find your question interesting. the first thought that came to my mind was a kind of camera you might be using. film, you say. the second thought that came to my mind was a kind of art. painting - flat surface. sculpture - 3 d - depth. so why macro? macro is generally used for micro-focusing. that said, pentax 50mm lens is a sharp lens. you don't need a macro. for flat surface, you want a small aperture like f8 through f16. you want to cover the whole painting in 2/3 of the viewfinder. for sculpture, it depends on the point of emphasis. if you want the whole object, then the same applies - 2/3.<br> <br />good luck and have fun.</p>

<p>last drop of cholula</p><div></div>

<p>no but i use a7r with voigtlander k adapter. but, i do not own any of the zoom lenses you mentioned. i don't use any zoom lens on a7r. i use prime lenses and i am very happy with the results. <br> the manual focusing is easy and friendly. the manual or aperture priority setting are also easy and friendly. however, you should know, that open aperture and wide angle lenses can give you vignette. in my case, i do not use anything wider than 31mm. i did not test on 28mm. also, even with 50mm lens, i found that f5.6 was the border. i saw vignetting wider than f5.6. i was disappointed on 20mm (bcs i wanted to do some experimental shots), but, mostly, i have no problem for what i use this camera for. online, you can find a remedial process for this sort of vignetting. it looks too complicated for me and i have not found a reason to follow that process (as of yet). </p> <p>good luck. </p> <h1 > </h1>

<p>.</p><div></div>

<p>since you raised the question in the pentax forum, i respond to your question from a different angle. i have not left pentax. i feel like i know characteristics of the lenses i own. i did not want to start over with another brand. <br> when df came out, i seriously looked into the camera. on the surface, it was very attractive to me. but i chose not to go with df. why? df does not provide manual focusing aid.<br> so i looked other options with a desire for an ff camera. so, i ended up with sony a7r. i use adapters for my pentax lenses both m42 and k mounts. mostly, i use m42 lenses with a7r. it has friendly manual focusing aid. i did not have to buy a whole set of lenses. the camera has a nice sensor. since i only use the basic setting, it works for me well. i like to use focusing ring. i use the aperture ring. a7r does not allow you to change filename (insanely unfriendly feature). i use raw converter from adobe so i did not have to upgrade the photoshop.<br> so if af is important to you, my path does not work for you. if your definition of the modern dslr is electronic gadgetry, this is not your path. if your definition of the modern camera is a good sensor, this could be a good option.<br> and i still use my k5.<br> good luck.<br> --osamu</p> <p> </p>

<p>nice. congratulations.</p>