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oliverthompson

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  1. I usually use the water from my heating bath, it's a very steady 38C, I have an immersion heater which is constantly circulating the water and keeping it up to temp, it rarely deviated more than 0.1 degree so I don't think temperature consistency is the problem
  2. Thank you all for the suggestions! I'll try them out on my next development, I've got a roll of 35 on the go right now so it could be a week or so before I get to see if these work for 35mm. I'm going to try a slower/colder development, that's the only thing I've changed since I started developing. I have a patterson tank that claims 500ml is enough for 120, but I'm a bit worried that isn't enough. Perhaps I should just make a full litre and then just use enough of it to ensure the film is well covered each time? I can only really buy kits in 1l or 500ml so it'll be one of the two. I also noticed a lot of people are agitating every 15 seconds, but I've only been doing it every 30 seconds (as per my kit's instructions). Perhaps if I switched from 3 sharp inversions every 30 seconds to 2 every 20 seconds?
  3. Hi all, I've been developing my own film for a little over a year now. First results were very positive, the negatives would always be nice and even, good natural colours. Now I seem to be having more and more issues, mainly with 120 film. I seem to always get patches or streaks of uneven colour. 35mm I've managed to sort this for, I just make sure to give a nice hot presoak so it's all evenly wet before developing, and I make sure to go heavy on the agitation. For 120 I've had less luck, no matter how much I agitate (and I've really gone ham on it a couple of times) there are always uneven patches. I use a large plastic tub to keep my chemicals and tank consistent temperatures, heated by a sous vide the entire way through, so I'm confident that's not a factor. Age of chemicals doesn't seem to make a difference in the evenness for me so far. Plus I've had some shots professionally scanned and they still come out with unevenness, so I don't think it's my scanning process. I've attached some examples below. The only thing I can think of that has changed since I started developing is I've slowly started developing at higher temperatures as I've got more confident. I think I started at 20 or 25 degrees, moved up to 30, now up to 38.5, with timings taken from my kit's manual (digibase c41). I always give the bleach and fix extra time, and I've rebleached/fixed some shots with no changes. My only thought is that with shorter development times there's more chance for unevenness, and longer/colder development means for agitation for inconsistencies to even out. I'd be very thankful for any advice.
  4. Hello again, last time I had a developing problem, you guys helped so much. I was having problems with some weird splotches of colour and it turned out I wasn't bleaching/fixing for long enough. That was with 120 film, and since extending bleach/fix times I've had much better results. I figured this would also help with my 35mm developing problems as well, alas, they still suck. Just developed a roll of portra 800 shot in my RB67 to get that sprocket hole look, and my old problem is back, around the sprocket holes it's very orange. I can't see it really on my negatives, but when they're scanned it's very pronounced and ruins the image. I use the same chemicals and same technique as with my 120 film, which does not have this problem. I think I've heard that over-agitating can lead to higher density around sprocket holes, but I've been very careful, two smart inversions every 30 seconds. I'm inspecting the negatives now and I can't see any hint of higher density around the sprocket holes, or anything to suggest there would be an issue I'm stumped here, any advice would be most appreciated
  5. Thank you both for your responses, I'm glad to hear it's likely something fairly easy to fix! My bleach and fix solutions are the oldest chemicals I'm using right now, and I've got them stored in airtight containers with all the air removed... I figured this would help with shelf life but it seems like it's the exact opposite of what I need to do. Previously I got some darkening around the sproket holes in 35 which can apparently be caused by too much agitation which is why I was so cautious, but I'll definitely start doing some more sensible inversions now
  6. oliverthompson

    Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2
  7. oliverthompson

    Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2
  8. oliverthompson

    Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2
  9. oliverthompson

    Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2
  10. oliverthompson

    Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2
  11. oliverthompson

    Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2 , Digitized with Negative Lab Pro v2.1.2
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