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NLsafari

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  1. Yes, I took a few pics of the lens but when I tried to attach same, I got a message that it was too big. Any suggestions? Raphael
  2. After many years in storage, I recently took out my old Pentax 50mm F/1.4 Super Takumar . I decided to research the lens on YOU TUBE and discovered that the 8 element was considered the best lens in the 60's. The problem I am having is that my lens has some of the markers found in the 8 element such as an A and an M on the barrel instead of AUTO/ MANUAL. My lens also has 6-blades and not 8. My lens has Super Takumar when you look at the lens from the front and does not say anywhere multi coated. However, my lens has the RED line to the LEFT of the 4 just like the 7-element , also the glass of the rear element does not protrude from the metal housing. In addition the lever to switch from AUTO to MANUEL has numbers on the back side which you find in the 7 element. The markers that I have for the 8- element were obtained from only one YOU TUBE source. I am now more confused than ever about my lens. This is why I am reaching out for help identifying my lens. One last thing , my lens was purchased in Hong Kong about 1966-67 by my brother when he was in Vietnam. Raphael
  3. Thanks, for explaining how the stop-down mechanism works. I will take a close look at the levers soon as I get aa chance. Raphael
  4. I have a number of lenses that have the old style Canon FD breech bayonet mount. I love these lenses but what will happen to them if the automatic diaphragm misfunctions on a special lens that is irreplaceable? Since parts for these old lenses are no longer available are they destined for the junk pile or can they be converted to a manual FL style mount? I know that if the camera mirror is locked up the diaphragm becomes manual but you lose functionality. Does anyone know if this conversion is practical? Raphael
  5. I spoke to a camera machine shop today and they are willing to look at my 300 and tell me if they can make the parts for the diaphragm mechanism. They have done conversions for FD mount to EOS so they have experience dealing with Canon mounts. If it is not crazy money to do the repair I will do it and will report the results to the forum. Wish me luck.
  6. I think I will follow your advice. But although it makes for more weight it does provide a better more secure grip for the F-1.
  7. Before writing this thread I send my lens to a highly regarded technician who told me that he couldn't repair the problem. I don't know if the levers have funny wear marks but I will look for them when my 300 Fluorite lens arrives. I have two Canon 300 F/2.8 . The other lens had the same problem , a sticky diaphragm. I caused this problem when I tightened the Breechlock ring on the lens when the lens and camera were slightly misaligned. There was damage to the lens and to the F-1n. I didn't want to junk the F-1n , it was my first Canon, so I sent it to KEH, they have a ton of old bodies and they replaced the mount and the F-1n body is good. The lens however, was a lot harder to fix. Everybody said forget about it. however, I reasoned that something got slightly bend, not only in the body but also in the lens. So I put the 300 Fluorite and Power Winder F on the F-1n and fired away ... thousands of times. After many hundreds of activations I noticed that the diaphragm started to loosen up a bit and this encouraged me to keep going. When I was done the diaphragm was still binding but much less. Then I sent the lens to my tech and he did a through cleaning of the lens mount. That lens diaphragm is perfect , so far. When I receive my troubled lens I will try this process again , but frankly I think I would rather go with a NEW FD mount conversion if I could find someone competent who could do it for reasonable cost.
  8. Another observation that I didn't mention is that on my other Canon FD lenses the metal tightening ring on the lens moves slightly when the lens mount engages the camera . This lets me know that the alignment is correct between the lens and the camera body and I can safely tighten things up without causing damage. On this lens the ring has zero movement and it is a little bit stiff. I was thinking maybe instead of switching to a Nikon mount switch to a NEW FD Canon mount. This would eliminate problems with focal-plane distance etc. The problem is I have to find someone that can make this conversion. Has anyone seen a lens mount conversion Canon OLD FD to NEW FD ? Is it very expensive?
  9. Another option is to see if Kanto Camera in Japan can change the mount of this lens.
  10. Normally when lens is in automatic setting when the shutter release button is pressed the diaphragm closes to the preset F/stop and then returns to the resting position and is fully open. What happens to my lens is that the diaphragm does NOT close fully to the preset F/stop and then it stays partially open. It is like there is a drag on the diaphragm system that impedes the action and makes it stick. I was told it was probably a problem in the diaphragm linkage mechanism or even the race that holds the ball bearings in the aluminum ring that is used to tighten the lens to the camera. Either way it seems to me ( I am not a technician ) you either get parts for the lens , which don't exist , get another Canon lens mount from another Canon 300-Fluorite, which I think is also near to impossible , or change the lens mount to something else. I was thinking Nikon because there are many legacy bodies available for reasonable $$$ and since they retained the same mount when they went digital parts would/might be readily available. The last option would be to see if S.K. Grimes can take the Canon mount apart and fabricate the necessary parts.
  11. Thanks for the info . I will take a look at the ebay unit. Raphael
  12. So you think a Tamron Adaptall mount could be retro fitted into the Canon 300 Fluorite? What do you think it would cost to pull this off? Do you think this is easier than to transplant the Canon optics into a scrap Nikon lens body? Raphael
  13. With Portra 400 film by Kodak and bright sun you can hand hold the lens and get reasonable results . Look at the pics from Africa in my file they are hand held.
  14. Thanks for the tech advise. The lens I have is a Canon FD 300 F/2.8 Fluorite S.S.C. with the GREEN ring .The glass is perfect. I even had S.K. Grimes out of R.I. make an adapter so that it is possible to put a generic UV filter on it. The problem with the lens is that the diaphragm mechanism sticks for some F-stops. A very capable repair person tried to fix it and says that without parts it can't be fixed.. I want to use this lens on a legacy body so I can shoot film. But I want to use it in the automatic lens setting so I don't have to stop it down. Unless i find another 300-Fluorite for parts that has a good mount I have to change the mount of the lens. I thought of Nikon because they did not change their mount when they converted to digital the way Canon did and so parts might be available.. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Raphael
  15. I want to convert the lens mount of one of my legacy Canon lenses to a Nikon and I would like to know if Nikon still makes the parts for their mount including the linkage for the diaphragm.
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