nikos_k

<p>It could be a problem of the batteries. Get good ones. I came across a situation where the batteries could give 1.5V for a few seconds and then their voltage dropped down to 1.2V or less. After a while they were up to 1.5V. Not sure why that happens.<br> Changed to good, branded ones and everything went back to normal.</p>

<p>Pardon me for resurrecting such an old thread. I have acquired a never used LC-A and I am experiencing the same problem. Turning the camera even at the sky away from the sun at ASA 400 makes it click without opening the shutter.<br> I have fiddled with it for quite a bit and I have discovered that:<br> - The LC-A does not have an exposure lock thing. Half press of the shutter button lights up the red led just for the battery check and nothing else.<br> - Slowly pressing the shutter button may leave you with a never opened shutter, while briefly pressing it all the way down trips the shutter even when pointing the camera into the sun.<br> I think that there is a design flaw at least for the early versions of the LC-A that affects the circuitry that holds the power required to open the shutter when the led comes up. </p>

<p>1st: Do not expect a big boom with the XP2. There will be nothing really spectacular to drop your jaws in comparison with the current XP1.<br> 2nd: If it was for me to spend A for the XP2 and half of it or less for the XP1 then the XP1 would be my choice no matter what.</p>

<p>Looks very nice! I will mix fresh FX1 and try it with it. Should I underexpose it though to compensate for the speed gain in FX1. I used to expose Pan F+ at EI 80 and develop it in FX1. Do you recommend doing the same with it?</p>

<p>Thanks Robert. I guess exposing it at EI 50 would not ruin anything since its box speed is ASA 64? Do they have a large exposure latitude?</p>

<p>Has anyone tried these films? What EI and what development times would you suggest if it is to be processed with D-76 or D-23?</p>

<p>I have tried various tricks to make something similar to that but all have failed. It is not a big deal, I can remove the film in a changing bag, but for the shake of completeness is there anyone that sells parts from retinas?</p>

<p>Hi Rick,<br> Thank you so much! These photos have helped a lot! That small piece is missing. Is it simply locked in that place? In that case I could try cutting a metal triangle close to that and fit it in there.</p>

<p>Hi Rick,<br> Are there any photos available of how it looks like? Do I have to remove the top of the camera to fix it? It would be easier if I had at least a photo of how it looks like when it is properly assembled. I'm afraid that I will open it, but have no idea what it should look like.</p>

<p>First thank you all for your replies.<br /> It seems that there is a problem with the fork that engages atop of the film spool in the film cassette. Through the last roll, I had to open the camera in a bag, remove the cassette and the film and rewind the film back by hand.<br /> I have tried rewinding the film with the knob retracted, but it did not work.<br> Is there any photos/schematics available on the parts that make up the rewind assembly of the Retina II?</p>

<p>I have a pre-war Kodak Retina II type 142 and the fork that engages the film spool turns freely and I cannot rewind the film back to the canister using the rewind knob. Can this be repaired?</p>

<p>I have gotten a bit confused. Would I get better results If I overexpose it at a lower EI, say 50, and develop it normally with the times given for the ASA 125?<br> For example if at ASA 125 plus-x requires 5.5 minutes in stock D-76, for how long should I try developing it if shot at ASA 50?</p>

<p>I have a few rolls of Kodak Plus-X expired on 1979. I have shot the first roll of it at EI 100 and developed it for 5:30 minutes in stock D-76. The negative came out rather dark and dense lacking shadow detail.<br> What exposure/development would you recommend for the rest of it?</p>

<p>How can I clean that galvanometer with some solvent? There is a plastic sticker on it. Would there be any problems removing it?<br> How can I regulate the galvanometer at optimum?<br> Sorry for being such a pest,<br> Nikos.</p>

<p>May I ask something else? I had the galvanometer rotated by releasing the two big screws that hold it and rotated it so that now the needle gets captured within the red zone when off. The problem now is that the readings are incorrect. Is there another way of adjusting the galvanometer?</p>