n_m10

<p>Ilford Pan F+ 50<br> ID-11</p><div></div>

<p>Adox CMS II<br> ASA 12<br> Ado tech II</p><div></div>

<p><strong>john robison</strong> - Thank you! I can't say it hasn't been fun.<br> <strong> </strong><br> <strong>Martin Tai</strong> - I always check if focus is on infinity.</p> <p>I have developed 3 rolls now. ASA 12 can be difficult to shoot unless it's bright & sunny out. In the shadows, shutter speeds can drop to 1/10 or 1/5. </p> <p>Looking back now, the results have been pretty good, all things considered (and compared to the other emulsions I've used.) I have found in particular, that close-up shots show <em>excellent</em> results.</p><div></div>

<p><strong>john robison</strong> - I agree. At the same time, I'm trying to get as much resolution as possible.</p>

<p>Thank you for your comments! Yes, this is a straight scan, with no touching-up (just resized.) I don't dislike what I got, but I am disappointed.</p> <p>I was looking at this thread on Flickr: <a href="https://www.flickr.com/groups/1261527@N20/discuss/72157655917726651/">https://www.flickr.com/groups/1261527@N20/discuss/72157655917726651/</a></p> <p>And these results from the same film/developer combination: <a href=" <p>In comparison to the this, the results I got are distinctly lacking. What did I do wrong?</p>

<p>So I shot a roll in a Minox B, ASA 20 (DIN 14) developed in Adotech II for 10 minutes, etc. etc. following the instructions. The results are not at all what I was expecting (after seeing Max Aleshin's results.) Granted the weather wasn't that nice, but this looks like what I got when shooting Retro 80s and developing in R09 or ID-11.</p> <p>Am I missing something? Does this film need to be shot at ASA 12?</p>

<p>I use a Jimmy Li slitter ;) The blade one, not the roller one, though. I guess I'll just have to be careful.</p> <p>Thank you again! I'll see if I can get some slitting done this evening.</p>

<p>Thanks again.<br> I bought the special II developer made for it.<br> I was worried about scratches: I had a roll of Retro 400 I got so scratched (from slitting? loading?) that the film was mostly useless.</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice. We'll see what happens.</p>

<p>I'd like to shoot this in Minox format and have some questions for anyone who has used it ..</p> <p>1. What ISO do you shoot it at?</p> <p>2. Does it scratch easily, for example when being slit?</p> <p>3. Do you need to increase developing time with Adotech II because it is Minox format?</p> <p>Thank you !</p>

<p>A few months late, but I have used cassettes with broken bridges. Previously I used a small piece of tape to keep them together, but tape can add thickness which can then interfere with the camera's pumping action and opening/closing when loading/unloading film. Recently I had an ACMEL cassette break on me and used Crazy Glue to fix it. Even the added thickness of the glue (added sparingly) makes the cassette a tight fit in my Minox C :/</p> <p>Personally I don't like to use broken cassettes as I had one jam in a Minox B to the point where I had to break it to pieces to get it out of the camera.</p> <p>When a cassette breaks on me, I use the take-up part as a dedicated development cassette. When I finish a film, I transfer it to the broken take-up chamber and then use it in the Minox tank.</p>

<p>I just got it back from repair yesterday. He CLA'd the shutter and film transport.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p> <p>Yes, I have read about CMS II and seen his results on Flickr: <p>Is it possible to get fine grain like this with other films such as Delta 100 or Fuji Acros?</p>

<p>I'm looking for an ultra-fine grain developer suitable for Minox 8x11. So far the developers I've used are ID-11, Perceptual and R09. While the results have been nice, they aren't fine-grained and I've seen some excellent results out there.</p> <p>The films I use are Ilford Delta 100 & 400, Pan F+ 50, Fujifilm Acros 100 and sometimes Rollei Retro 80s.</p> <p>Can anyone recommend anything easy to buy or perhaps make? For example, is Spur HRX any good?</p> <p>Thank you!</p>