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murrayatuptown

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  1. I gave it another try. No, it doesn't seem to do anything well other than CA. Most images I desaturate and exploit the focal shifts...it's given me the old 'snapshot' look from when I was a kid. Or there is something defective other than engineering.
  2. Hello: I have an Industar-24 lens in Moment-24S (MOMEHT-24C) shutter from a Moskva-5. It's been apart for awhile & I'm trying to put the back cover with rear lens on. I've misplaced the three screws that hold the back to the shutter. Other than 'probably same as used on Super-Ikonta-C or some Compur shutter', does anyone happen to know what thread I'm looking for? It looks like they're flathead since the case holes are countersunk). Thanks
  3. murrayatuptown

    12.5 mm/2.8 lens from Kodak Disc 6000 glued into an aluminum 1" tube, threaded with a 1.00"-32 tap (C-mount. Mounted on a FOTOFOX M42-C-NEX adapter which has both M42 and C-mount threads. It is not the proper thickness for M42 on NEX, but I knew that whe
  4. murrayatuptown

    12.5 mm/2.8 lens from Kodak Disc 6000 glued into an aluminum 1" tube, threaded with a 1.00"-32 tap (C-mount. Mounted on a FOTOFOX M42-C-NEX adapter which has both M42 and C-mount threads. It is not the proper thickness for M42 on NEX, but I knew that whe
  5. murrayatuptown

    12.5 mm/2.8 lens from Kodak Disc 6000 glued into an aluminum 1" tube, threaded with a 1.00"-32 tap (C-mount. Mounted on a FOTOFOX M42-C-NEX adapter which has both M42 and C-mount threads. It is not the proper thickness for M42 on NEX, but I knew that whe
  6. murrayatuptown

    12.5 mm/2.8 lens from Kodak Disc 6000 glued into an aluminum 1" tube, threaded with a 1.00"-32 tap (C-mount. Mounted on a FOTOFOX M42-C-NEX adapter which has both M42 and C-mount threads. It is not the proper thickness for M42 on NEX, but I knew that whe
  7. murrayatuptown

    12.5 mm/2.8 lens from Kodak Disc 6000 glued into an aluminum 1" tube, threaded with a 1.00"-32 tap (C-mount. Mounted on a FOTOFOX M42-C-NEX adapter which has both M42 and C-mount threads. It is not the proper thickness for M42 on NEX, but I knew that whe
  8. murrayatuptown

    12.5 mm/2.8 lens from Kodak Disc 6000 glued into an aluminum 1" tube, threaded with a 1.00"-32 tap (C-mount. Mounted on a FOTOFOX M42-C-NEX adapter which has both M42 and C-mount threads. It is not the proper thickness for M42 on NEX, but I knew that whe
  9. Wondering if anyone still finds these posts useful, I realized I just did. I searched and found my own forgotten thread. So I'll update it. 1) I have experimented with 95/150/160/800 style shutters to understand how they work. Repeatedly cycling them while watching can allow spring retainers to creep out of position until the spring flies across the room! The shutter cocking spring is the first to go and the B/I (Bulb/Instant?) spring. So beware. I left one springless specimen permanently open, glued an M42 extension tube to the back & used it on at least one digital camera. Awaiting an M42/E-mount adapter this week to try it on another. Some would say (not ask) 'what's the point?' I like the images I got enough to keep doing it. Like Bart Simpson burning his hand on the stove...ow...ow...ow... 2) The 95/150/160/800 shutter (I haven't looked up a proper name for this kind of mechanism as I like my analogies...pinball-machine-shutter, time-of-flight-shutter, etc.) If yours bounces open a couple times after firing, it's because a small piece of foam rubber at the end of the shutter's at-rest position has decomposed. IIRC, it's inside a helical 'bumper' spring. I think there is also a magnet to capture it also. I tried various types of foam...too thin and it bounces. Too thick and it doesn't close all the way. What worked best for me was the really thin sheet wrap foam, probably no more than 1/16" (1.5 mm) thick. I used a folded piece about 1/8" (3 mm) wide, maybe 3/8"-1/2" (~9-12.5 mm) long. Not critical...the attempt that works it the one to use. Watch out for springs creeping out while testing this with the back half of the lens/shutter cover removed. (Implied steps are to remove and retain the screws holding the bellows to the rear shutter cover, which has one lens element attached, then remove the 4 (?) screws holding it to the rest of the front of the camera which serves as a combination of front 'standard', lensboard and shutter assembly). 3) If you have cameras with shutters of this type screwed up by previous invaders, or suffered the above calamity during your own investigation, and resign yourself to a permanently-open specimen for digital camera usage, you can just pivot the shutter plate slightly open and use a piece of tape or contact cement to make it stay open. Both are more or less reversible.
  10. Does anyone remember what the II Yellow and III Red designations meant on aerial photography filters? I have some for 6" Metrogon Lenses with these Roman numeral markings. Red 25A requires 3 stops of exposure correction, which may be coincidental. I have seen 25A red filters without the vapor-deposited center spot filter on Aero-Ektar lenses. The red appears to my eye to be the same color. The yellow also looks like the same color as other non-spot filters, but 2 stops of correction seems a bit much for that yellow color. I'll take a guess that the II and III refer to the filters not having equal light transmission across the diameter...or that II and III refer to stops of exposure correction for the spectral response of aerographic black & white film under the conditions seen from an airplane (different from sea level). One of the red filters also has a marking 3' (read like '3 feet' or '3-prime'). Thanks Murray
  11. Thank you. I've reached out to UCR with a couple questions. Murray
  12. I have a Rochester Camera King 8x10 camera with no lens board. I can measure a 4-1/4" square opening that steps down <1/8" (0.112") to 4", then there is the front bellows 'frame'. I have seen these lens boards described as 3-part, but have not found pictures. I am familiar with a single step cut on other lens boards Does anyone have one they can show a side view of? If there was a 3rd dimension for light trap/baffle, I'm visualizing something like a recessed lens board, but for different reasons. Thanks for any assistance... Murray
  13. Thanks, Dave, on confirming the film fit. About glass plate in bottom of tray, the reason the other person did that was so it was smooth to avoid scratching bottom-placed emulsion. He drained the tray and added the next liquid, so the handling of the negative was minimal. I don't recall any wording about flipping the negative. I can only remember that he was an African photographer living in France. His still life macros were gorgeous, on all types of film he used.
  14. Maybe John Minnicks who modifies old cameras into his Aero Liberator cameras.
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