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MrFilm

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  1. Thanks for all the help. I’ve got lots to be going with for the next roll that I’m going to develop. Towel at the ready!
  2. Thank you Rodeo_joe Yer, I figured all I'm doing when agitating is making sure the chemical is moved over the surface of the film so no need to go crazy. I did an initial agitation with the stick that comes with the Paterson tank for the first minute, then I put the lid on and did a couple of inversions every 30 seconds. Both Kodak data sheets seem to be suggesting shorter initial agitation. What do you recommend?
  3. Thanks glen_h This is the Tri-X I am using: And I found a data sheet in English: http://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/prod/files/files/products/f4017_trix_320400.pdf
  4. Thanks Wilmarco. It's hard to describe exactly what I mean. The images just seem to lack a bit of heft. A little bit flat perhaps. Here's another example from the same roll:
  5. Thanks for the information. That’s interesting about the re-engineering of Tri-X. But I’m comparing to new Tri-X proceeded by my local lab. To clarify, I was certainly no expert 20 years ago and the developing and printing I did was in college and university darkrooms. So I don’t recall exactly what chemicals or processes I used. I got back into film about a year and for black and white film my go to combo has become a Rollei 35S + Tri-X 400. I’ve shot multiple rolls and had them developed at my local lab. So I’d expect to be able to produce a similar look. I’ll check the data sheets for Tri-X and D76. I think I may have gone about it the wrong way. As for HP5+, I really like that film too but I usually get a bit finer and denser images for Tri-X. In fact the shot of the boat look more like HP5 to my eyes.
  6. Thanks for reply I’m using a Paterson tank which needs 290ml (10oz) for one roll of 35mm. For ease of diluting I did 300ml. I calculate 8oz as 227ml so are you advising just to use stock D76? (As in just fill up to 290ml (10oz))
  7. Thanks for replying again. Stop bath - OK, I'll continue with just water. Water - I mean bottled water. I'll try and find some distilled water. Temperature - I initially used a glass thermometer that I bought from a photography shop but it was hard to determine the exact temperature. I'm now using a digital thermometer I had in the kitchen (obviously now going to be used for developing only). Scan - I scan on a Epson flatbed with minimal histogram adjustments. When using exactly the same process the lab developed negatives gave better results.
  8. I just trying to replicate the results the photo lab were giving me. So I was wondering what to tweek.
  9. Thank you so much for replying. For roll 3 I’ll use stock or 1:1 I didn’t realise 1:3 was abnormal. I saw it on the Massive dev chart site and used it to get a longer development time. This is because my room temperature at the moment is around 22° and because I’m using water as a stop bath. For mixing the working solution I use spring water and for the final photo-flo rinse. Would you recommend a chemical stop bath?
  10. Hello, I’ve just started developing my own negatives again after 20 years. I’ve done two rolls this week, but not completely satisfied with the results. Could anyone give me any pointers on how to improve? Pre wash in water 30 seconds Developer: D76 1:3 22° 16 minutes 1st minute agitation then every 30 seconds Stop: Water 1 minute agitation, change water and another minute Fix: ilford rapid fixer. 3 mins (same agitation as dev.) Wash: 10 minutes under the tap Final: photo-flo 1 minute. Dunk, twirl and stand. 1st - aristaedu400 - seemed grainy so I tried genteler agitation for 2nd. 2nd - Tri-X - doesn’t have the pop I’m used to. (I realise I should practice with one film type but I did an aristaedu400 first just in case I messed up something fundamental, then second tried Tri-X as it’s my go to film)
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