Jump to content

mpo

Members
  • Posts

    389
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

  1. <p>If you are willing to spend some money, you can end all your troubles buying a Developing Timer with Temperature Compensation like this RH Design <br> http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/darkroom/html/processmaster.html<br> It's all you'll ever need, I bought mine six years ago and I completely forgot about temperature issues.</p>
  2. <p>The CRIS adapter (and others as well) use a tiny diode, a Schottky I think, to achieve the voltage drop. As this is an active electronic devices, there is a chance this diode is no longer working and the adapter will not work no matter the battery or camera you try with. A voltmeter and a small 330-560 Ohm resistor will help to diagnose.</p>
  3. <p>I do not know if it hits the mirror, but that lens is not worth the risk of damaging (or modifying) your camera. This is a lens designed by Sigma in the 90s and adopted by Leica. It is not close to be a piece of garbage, but it's not up to the quality you would expect from a Leica lens (distortion is very high). Would you risk your camera for a Sigma lens? </p>
  4. <p>Pay attention to the Luftwaffe Elmar, that lens alone may be worth three times that price (and double this price if minty).<br> That said, I offer you the same $405 just for that lens (he he he, who knows...)</p>
  5. <p>Gentlemen, a camera light leak on a positive image would look whitish, not dark.<br> Interesting, no clue about its cause. Film issue? Foma perhaps?</p>
  6. <blockquote> <p>The new bottles are a softer plastic, and round edged instead of the sharp edge I remember from 40 years ago.</p> </blockquote> <p>In any case, my comment was alluding to the modern, rounded, bottles.</p>
  7. <p>I had a similar leakage and its origin was the deformation of the bottle produced by the partial vacuum produced by the oxygen been absorbed by the remaining developer. The plastic bottle did not stand a sharp edge produced by this shrinking and got a small crack...</p> <p>BTW HC-110 and Ilfotec HC are very similar, but not the same. Ilfotec requires times 10 to 20% longer.</p>
  8. <p>Hi Todd, frustrating, yes.<br> Remember that the app was already working before the deletion and reinstallation. If you just delete the app while frozen it's a different situation and may not work the same way. <br> Regards,<br> Marcelo</p>
  9. <p>Hi Todd. Good question. I deleted the app and started from scratch, this time everything went smoothly, no hangs and is working ok.<br> Thanks again for this app.<br> MP</p>
  10. <p>Hi,<br> Yours looks like a very good application, thank you!<br> You are fortunate, because my phone got hung too.<br> My phone is an iPhone 4 (not "s") 32GB, IOS 7.1.2 (11D257), hardware model 3,1. I installed the app, made a quick test and seemed to work ok. Then I tried to activate the voice control, the phone showed a black microphone figure and "Starting up..." message... and the app froze, just the app not the phone. I was not able to un-froze the app. Maybe I didn't try hard enough...<br> I shot down the phone, then turned it on and restarted the app. The app started on the same screen as before, still showing "Starting up..." and the black mic, after a second, without any other action, the mic turned green and the screen showed the words "OK" "NEXT" etc. When I spoke the words they were recognized swiftly. The app seems to work ok now.<br> I looked into the Diagnostics and Use log, but cannot identify any crash entry related to your app.<br> I hope this helps.<br> MP</p>
  11. <p>Not me, but I got a Mr. Zhou half-case that has a "third lug" to hang the CL as a honest camera.</p>
  12. <p><em>...The pattern appears as white/clear lines on negatives. They span the entire width of the roll at regular intervals appearing mostly between frames and on the bottom half of the images (as above)...</em><br /> <em>...Its almost as though the top of the image (above the lines) is over exposed, whilst the bottom half (below the line) is "normal".</em><br /> <br /> Maybe you didn't wind the film tight enough after removing it from the camera. Then you can get a fogging pattern like the one you describe. If so, the defective part of the film is the lighter area in the positive, not the darker.<em><br /></em></p>
×
×
  • Create New...