mostly sports

"Yes, anybody can have Prada bag, but I never heard someone calling it professional tool:) " Depends on what profession you're in. :cool:

Obviously, the lens is going to have an impact on the quality. As will technique (tripod, low ISO, etc.) and light levels. Here's an album I shot with a Sony RX10 M3. https://goo.gl/photos/VDq9barDkPqLBW4L9 On the web, you're not going to see a lot of difference between the formats. How shall we measure quality? The largest "sharp" print you can make? I think 11X14 will be great, 16X20, a stretch. I have cameras with four different formats (1", M43, ASP-C, FF). I think about the final use of the image, and light levels when taking the photo. The less the light, the better the larger format. Here's another album, shot with Sony a6300 and RX10 M4. Can you tell the difference without looking at the info? https://photos.app.goo.gl/3HrEqboVVHNW4HWZ7

Here's Olympus' explanation of the upgrade for 2.0. Olympus announces significant firmware updates for OM-D and PEN cameras Now there is 2.1 to solve one of the problems created by 2.0. Without actually acknowledging the problem (unlike Leica's recent T2 recall) they did fix the software in a few months.

I bought a new Pen F last month, and promptly upgraded to firmware 2.0. Then I had a series of camera failures. It would just go dark, as if the battery had died. But taking the battery out and putting it right back in would reset the camera, and show plenty of charge on the battery. Every shooting session this would happen a few times. I thought I was the only one, but then I discovered this thread on DP Review: Re: Olympus PEN-F lock-up / freeze / unresponsive after updating the firmware to version 2.0: Micro Four Thirds Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review There's a guy in Germany who has figured out how to downgrade to the prior firmware, and that solves the problem. https://lightsnowdev.com/Olympus There is the usual corporate failure to acknowledge the problem, although some say a corrective update is coming in June. Otherwise, I love the camera.

There are scams on Amazon. Anyone can become a seller, and post a listing. Here's one for a Canon 35mm 1.4 L II, like new for $400! Three tip-offs are ridiculously low price, and "contact us before ordering," and "just launched seller." When you contact them, they will have you pay directly, not through Amazon. When you never get the goods, there is no recourse, because you didn't go through Amazon. Otherwise,I have purchased a lot of gear through Amazon with no problem. Frequently one of their legitimate sellers is the first to stock a new item, the shipping is quick, and returns are easy. I also use an Amazon Prime credit card that builds points for "cash back" discounts on Amazon purchases. Just don't bite on those sucker deals in the "used and new" listings on page two. Phil Stiles $400.00 & FREE Shipping + $0.00 estimated tax Used - Like New Bränd nëw itëm! Cöntäct us priör tö ördëring~* CRMIKE200 ""a-t"" ... » Read more Arrives between April 14-21. Want it delivered Thursday, April 13? Choose Expedited Shipping at checkout. Shipping rates and return policy. Lagrue Pascal Just Launched (Seller Profile)

<p>Sony RX10M3</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for posting. What is your camera?</p>

<p>I shoot a lot of soccer, and the only time I use a 70-200/2.8 is if it's a night game. Otherwise, you just need more reach. A 100-400 on FX sensor is adequate.<br> On the other hand, a 50mm (effective 75mm) works very well for basketball, if you can get close, and is a decent portrait lens as well on FX.<br> So I would spend on a great field sports lens, pick up a 50, and leave it at that for the present.</p>

<p>My actual and real experience is with an A7ii and adapters for some vintage Contax Zeiss lenses. I also have an extensive Olympus M43 kit, an Alpha 6300, and shoot a variety of sports, events, musicians, portraits, and so on. Not a lot of landscape, fashion or macro.<br> While I have not used a Loxia, from all I've read it is a top performer and would be marginally better than the typical "nifty fifty." Of course "everything's great at f/8" so whether the extra cost of the Loxia would justify its slightly better performance is an open question. If you are shooting with a tripod, and making huge enlargements, you will see a difference. Otherwise, I would spend the thousand dollars (as I did) on a variety of focal lengths. My Carl Zeiss Contax 35/2.8, 50/1.7, and 85/28 came in at about the same cost for the whole set. Part of the charm of the Loxia is small size. Does that matter to you? I'd love to have the 21mm Loxia for exactly that reason. Meanwhile, the Sony FE 55mm f/1.8 is about the same price as the Loxia, and gives you an autofocus option and superb performance.<br> My eyes don't get tired with EVF.<br> Almost every iconic image of 20th century photojournalism was taken with manual focus.</p><div></div>

<p>I have observed many folks learning how to process black and white films, and the hardest part is loading the film reels. It's one of those manual dexterity things that takes a certain "knack." I don't like the ratchet gadgets. For one thing, they need to be scrupulously dry, so there's an issue if you're processing batch after batch. I settled on Hewes reels for both 120 and 35mm. Expensive, but now cheap on ebay. Sacrifice a few rolls to practice, and load the reels in the daylight where you can see what's going on. That will give you the proper feel for how to do it. Load in daylight until you get it right, then load in daylight with your eyes closed (you can open them if you get stuck), and when you can do it smoothly, you'll be ready for the darkroom. I am continually amazed that people think photography is a skill that requires no practice. I suggest stainless steel tanks, because they are easy to clean and are temperature conductive. Mix your chemicals, and have a water bath (a plastic dishpan works well) for your tank and chemistry. Let the whole thing sit for an hour and all the temps will be stabilized. Use the same thermometer all the time. Use a consistent agitation technique. Keep records of your ISO, time and temperature. Old cameras are great, but can have sticky shutters that play havoc with your exposures. Have it checked electronically. I could go on and on, but there are plenty of books with all the info. Enjoy!<br> And by the way, those defects are classic "film not properly loaded on the reel" results.</p>

<p>I don't know if this is Japanese, Chinese, or something else. What does it say? Can anyone help? Thanks.</p><div></div>

<p>I don't think the leash is usual, and I find a dangling lens cap very distracting. I just have a filter and a lens hood on my lenses all the time, keeping the lens cap in the box that the lens came in. You probably don't care, but the leashed lens cap costs you serious style points in almost every arena.</p>

<p>One alignment is obvious, when it's in focus is there any vertical disparity in the focus patch? That may not impact the point of focus, but it's distracting.<br> Another focus test is to place a yardstick on a table, perpendicular to your viewpont. Put a small object at the halfway point, focus on it, and it will be clear from the negative if the object, or some other point on the yardstick, is in focus. You could do the same with a vertical stick in a lawn. When you focus on the stick, it will either be in focus, or you'll see the grass behind or in front is actually in focus. Shoot wide open, of course, and use the same distance at which you intend to use the camera. Depending on condition, you may want to get a full CLA anyway. The slow shutter speeds are most revealing. Enjoy your classic!</p>