moose

Many thanks for your advices, tom_cow! Regards, moose

Hi folks, about 20 years I'm taking photos with my CM501. I've two magazines, one four daily use films and one for films I use less common. The attached scan is from a film which has been exposed within the less common used magazine. The scan is showing images 10-12 (from bottom to top). As you see, image 10 (and 1-9 too) are exposed right. But, images 11 and 12 are partially overexposed. Both are shot in the same scenary and with the same settings just a few seconds between each. And, asy you see the overexposed part is leading a little bit into the bottom of the next image. I never saw this kind of exposing every time before. Did you do ever? What may be the reason? Is it an error in the magzin itself or may it be a mistake of the laboratory who developed the film? Or may be a totally other reason? Well, I already checked the trap seal (light seal) foam and foil, but is totally light proof. Currently I've no other idea what may have happened. And I didn't see such kind of an partially overexposed images on my Hasselblad ever before. Any help/hint would be greatly appreciated! Regards, moose

Hi folks, many thanks to all of you for sharing your experiences and opinions which in most cases are valuable and constructive. I've got a lot of informations for making my buying decision. Sepcial thanks to Ed_Ingold who did not get tired to share his experiences on moving from 6x6 analog world FF digital world with me and the forum. Now I'll leave this post/thread, buy camera & lenses and gain experiences with it. Regards, moose

Because I don’t have the camera now and come from analog world. So I‘m looking for a way to transfer my current shooting methodes to the digital world. So far I first think about which range of DoF I‘ll need for a specific motive, choose the right aperture for this DoF on my lense, press the dimmer button on the lense and check through view finder if it fits to my needs. This is the way I used so far.

The camera you mentioned is really great, I know. I had a closer look at it in spring when buying a new camera just for traveling with very low and small luggage. But, I myself found the Lumix TZ200 fits better to my needs because it has a 24-360 mm ´travel´ zoom and I really needed the long focal distance on safari and whale watching. Anyway, the Sony RX100 IV is a really great camera too. Thanks for your suggestion, Alan!

Just had a look at photopills app. It has much more functions than the other two I mention before for the same price. It’s available for iPhone and iPad and supports six languages including my native one. For my humble opinion it has a better value for money relation. And a lot of tutorials on the developer’s website no just only for DoF. It’s a little bit like a Swiss army knife for the right exposure in difficult illumination situations on outdoor photography. A really great tip Ed, thanks! Thanks also for your DoF notes related to ZEISS Batis and Loxia lenses! For shure I‘ll keep these hints in mind on buying lenses for my Alpha in future. Regards, moose

Thanks for your hint, David! Sadly, HyperFocal Pro is available for Android only. But, because I‘d need an iOS App I‘ll have look at TrueDoF-Pro and OptimumCS-Pro from Apple‘s App Store. Anyway, I think these iOS Apps will work quiet similar.

Thanks so much, Ed!

Hi folks, thanks so much for your continued posting and sharing! Meanwhile the fog goes away and the first outlines of my new camera equipment become visible. Additionally I did some research on the web based on your suggestions. My first results are the following: mirrorless digital camera body (less weight than DSLR) full frame chip with round about 50 +/- 10 MP must not be the latest / newest one good test results, well engineered, metal body, firmware updates still available and hopefully continued for a while ... Hasselblad or PhaseOne are to big and to heavy if possible, in-body not in lense image stabilization - can use more / different lenses These points lead me to the Sony Alpha R 7 II...IV . But, as suggested by some of you I think it would be a good idea to rent the camera for a few days before making the buying decision. So I‘ll do soon. At this point the decision for the body has been done thanks to you guys! Now the question for the right lenses come up. I‘m a great fan of ZEISS lenses which are available for SONY bodies too. But, how is the feature of depth of field control implemented on the digital cameras? On my current lenses I have a aperture ring, a meter ring and some strokes which show me the range of depth in field in ft/m at a specific aperture. But, the new lenses for digital cameras seam not to have this comparison option. Therefor my first question is how do I get control of depth of field on digital camera lenses? Second, are there any suggestions for lenses, anyway if fixed or zoom ones for Sony Alpha R 7 II-IV Bodies which cover the range from about 24 to 200 mm? Are there any other topics to keep in mind while choosing the right lenses for my new body? Again, thanks a lot for your continued assistance! Kind regards, moose

Hi folks, first of all a big THANK YOU to all of you who answered to my question(s) during this short time! I‘m deeply impressed about quality, details and upcoming new aspects of your answers, really! I only gave a rough overview about what I‘d like to do with my new camera because I don‘t what to steer the discussion to a specific direction. But, because I‘ve been asked I‘d like to give some more informations about my way of shooting and image processing workflow. I like my Hasselblad very, very much and will never give it away because owning and using one was a dream to me since childhood when I got my first Voigtländer Vitoret. But, as time goes by I‘m not able anymore to carry a 20+ kg backpack through the mountains so I came to point to limit my camera, lenses and tripoid weight to 4-5 kg in sum. So weight is the absolutely top feature. Second one quality will be which means no JPEG on shooting just RAW, best 16 bit color depth. Sensor size and resolution I‘m not sure about at the moment. Currently I‘m scanning my color slides at 16 bit color depth and 3500 dpi which ends up in 8k x 8k pixel files. But, because I‘m printing with max. 150 dpi I really need this big image files very, very rare. Up to A2 I print myself, bigger ones like 1x1m I give to a lab. Sometimes I sell a photo but I‘m to unknown and in times of instagram most people think they‘ll get everything for free. Therefor I build my own image gallery on the web with small sized photos available under CC license. Motive searching and shooting: I‘ve time and dislike it to be in a hurry because photography is my hobby, not my job. And I need to be in the right mood otherwise I couldn‘t shoot photos in a way I‘d like them afterwards. Mostly I visit a place three times: first, just notifying a motive fortuitously, on a walk, hike, while climbing or on eBike. Second, I think about when season, light and other conditions will be right for this motive and come again to verify my thesis. And third, when all conditions match I come again for shooting. You may be amused about my way of shooting but that‘s me and I like to shoot my photos this way. If these additional informations will lead to new camera/system suggestions they would be greatly appreciated! Have a nice day and again, thanks for your most valuable hints, moose

Hi folks, I´m new to to photo.net and hope this form/thread is the right one for my question. Well, my age is 60+ and hiking and traveling with my 6x6 medium format analog camera and its equipment becomes more difficult. Therefor I decided to move to a smaller and hopefully lighter digital equipment. Mostly I use lenses from 24-200 mm, a Spotmeter and tripoid. Most usecases are landscape and outdoor photography, flash isn‘t required but long exposures. And a full manually controlled shooting. But, what to choose? In medium format size you had let’s say 2 or 3 main players in the gaim. But now the market of digital camera manufacturers, sensor sizes and resolutions, DSLR‘s, mirror less and compact cameras is nearly inextricable to me. May be, some one of you performed this switch before me and would like to share her/his experiences with me. If more information is required please let me know. Many thanks in advance for reading and answering, moose PS At home I‘ve and use a fully color calibrated workflow starting with a Flextight scanner over Mac and Windwos machines, both with PS and a A2 ink printer.