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  1. I could imaging going back from my canon 5DIV back to my 5D2. I can get the job done with the 5D2 but I love working when I have the 5DIV in my hands. It is absoultely worth the money hands down. Plus the 4K video future proofs the camera. I shoot 4K even when my end result is going to be HD. Why, for one you get 4:2:2 color space vs 4:2:0 and yes this extra color detail makes a big difference.
  2. If you mainly use it for studio work why not just get a studio strobe. They are cheaper, have way more power and are easier to us in Studio. I use the Alien Bees you can find B800 and B1600 or even Einsteins on E-bay cheap. You can also send you 580 EX for repair and get it rebuilt for less than a new flash. I did this to my 580 EX I and EX II. I also have the new Canon 600 RT II but I use the Flashpoint triggers to trigger both my Canon speed-lights and real strobes together.
  3. I shoot with a 5DIV and the Canon 70-200 F2.8 II IS and 85 1.2L II. personally, I don't think Canon can make a lens any better than those two lenses. I also shoot with the Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC and Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC. The sharpest of all these lenses is the Canon 70-200 F2.8 IS II, the most exotic looking images come from the 85 1.2L (but it is a slow heavy lens and I only shoot it at F1.2). In low light, NOTHING can touch the 85 1.2L for fast focusing the 70-200. My most versatile and useful lens by FAR is the Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC. I upgrade my Sigma 70-200 EX as after a years of hard use it just started looking bad. All the paint has peeled off and although it still take decent photos it looks terrible. It is not nearly as fast or as sharp as the Canon L. Long story short, going forward i will just invest in Canon L-series lenses as they have the longest life and resale value. Tamron and Sigma's get eh job done but they are not as good as Canon L.
  4. I upgraded from a 5D2 to a 5D4 and had every plan of selling my 5D2. However, I just couldn't do it and decided to keep it as a backup. Reason why? the 5D2 still take fabulous pictures and very few if any of my customers can tell which pictures I took with which camera. If you want a full frame camera a used 5D2 or 5D3 will do just fine. Full frame cameras are more for portrait work or other static objects so focusing speed is generally not the main concern. I shoot with 85 1.2L and other fast primes wide open generally on a tripod, with that being said I just can't tell the difference in new vs old camera if I am using the same lens on both and shooting on a tripod.
  5. I have seen guys with cheap camera and cheap kit lenses make their work look like it was shot on an $8000 camera after editing it in Lightroom.
  6. You said you upgraded from a 5D2 to a 6D. I have used both and I think the 5D2 even though it may be older is a better camera than the 6D. Just because it is newer doesn't mean it is better. If I remember correctly the 5D2 is capable of faster shutter speeds than the 6D and has better low light performance and better dynamic range. The 5D2 is also a Titanium body where the 6D is aluminum and plastic. I own both a 5D2 and 5D4 and love them both. I see much more of a difference with between L-series glass and third party or lower priced lenses than I see between my 5D2 and 5D4.
  7. This is a 5D Mark IV right? I know this event has already passed, but with my 5DIV I would just shoot 4K video and do high end screen grabs after the fact. I have 4 or 5 256GB fast SSD's. If you don't have that much storage just shoot it in 1080P video and if you need do screen grabs from that. For me shooting a thousand JPG's at hgh speed just doesn't have the same affect it had a few years ago. 4K or HD video with IS on and pick a nice stable location where you can zoom and pan with your lens instead of trying to keep up with runners. Planning and video will get you a better end result than photos IMOP.
  8. I absolutely love my Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC. I think it was like $399 when I purchased it, but it is a super sharp lens for the money and I thin better built than the lower end Canon Lenses. Nothing beats the L-series zooms but they are super expensive and heavy.
  9. It doesn't seem to be an optical IS. Seems software based. I doubt it would ever come to the 5DIV simply because the 5DIV is positioned as a professional camera and I believe like myself many professionals shoot video on a tripod with a fluid head or some other type of glide cam / stabilizer. I would much rather do that than rely on in-camera don't know what your going to get IS for professional work. Also, if I do need IS I and most people who own a 5DIV have at least one L-series lens with IS or Tamron with VC.
  10. I have both and both are good but the 5DIV is obviously much much better. I shoot at night with the 50 1.8, 28 1.2, 17-40 F4L using live-view and the RAW files are supper clean. You can also clean up the noise even more in light-room with a plugin but it is really not necessary at all. I rented a Zeiss 50 and it also worked out beautifully.
  11. I have two batteries in the Canon grip and use WIFI, GPS and live view all day and haven't had to change batteries. However, when i am shooting indoors I purchased the battery with a DC 12v power plug on the end. I plug this into my Vagabond DC-AC power and power my Iphone (remote monitor), lights, camera and Zoom F4 for hours. It is absolutely worth it to get the external power plug it is dirt cheap and works great. I can now use video camera batteries to run my camrea and never have to worry about batteries dying during all day long video shoots.
  12. I had to send my Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC and Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC in for the firmware update and now they both work fine in all situations. However, I own the 17-40 F4L, 85 1.2L, 50 1.8, and 28 1.8. My favorite lens by far is the 70-200 F2.8 IS II. This lens on the 5DIV blows everything else away in ever aspect. I am tempted to upgrade my Tamron 24-70 VC to the Canon 24-70 F2.8L II, but I shoot a lot of video and really enjoy having the VC on the Tamron for hand holding video.
  13. I have but seldom us the 85 1.2L II. Couldn't imagine need IS on a lens this fast. It is ALL about clarity and beauty so why mess that up with IS? It is by not means a fast lens not designed to be. When you are focusing on anything at 1.4, 1.2 you can not depend on auto-focus. the DOF is so razor thin you must use your eyes to focus (autofous will focus on something but rarely what you want it to). Basically, if you are going for fast primes don't think of IS or autofocus. My favorite lens of portrait work by far is my 70-200 F2.8 IS II. I prefer it over the 85 1.2L as it is so much more versatile. They both blur background beautifully, but nothing looks as smooth as the 70-200 when shot close to subject 1.5m @ 200 zoom and f2.8. It is also way way faster than the 85 1.2L and more reliable in that 2.8 is more forgiving that 1.4, 1.2. I would even consider the 85 1.8 I already have the 50 1.8 which is super sharp.
  14. I personally would go with the 24-70 F2.8 and leave the 50 1.8 at home. For travel I leave my Canon 5D mark IV at home and take my Canon 5D mark II, Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC, Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC. $399.00 when I got it has image stabilization is super light and takes great pictures. I have the 24,35,50,and 85 1.2L primes which I would never travel with, way too heavy and attract too much attention due to the large lens opening in the front. My absolute favorite lens is my 70-200 F2.8 IS II, but that lens is way too heavy to travel with it is a tank. The Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC is super light equal in IQ to the Canon L-serieis counterpart but better when hand-holding do to the VC \ IS especially when shooting video or night shots with no flash. I personally do not like the Canon 24-105 F4L IS, when compared to my 17-40 F4L i noticed a lot of distortion from the 24-105 (basically, dump that lens an upgrade).
  15. This is not the case with the 16-35 being for crop sensor. I get much flatter lines, less distortion and darkening in the corners when I shoot with my Canon 17-40 F4L at 24mm than when I shoot with the Canon 24-70 F2.8L. No comparison for shooting buildings, horizons, framed windows or anything with parallel lines nothing other than maybe a tilt-shift lens beats the Canon 17-40 F4L on a 5D or EFS camera. I shoot full frame and love the 17-40 for landscapes but use the Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC for event work where I need the faster focusing, F2.8 for low light without flash and the better image stabilization. But it has noticeable vignetting when at 24mm whereas the 17-40 has no vignetting or distortion at all at 24mm and very little at 17. I compared this once to the 24-105 F4L and hated that lens, horizons where so bent they looked like hills.
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