mikemulcahy

I too have been casually looking at them for a while. I look forward to the replies.

FYI, I ended up using dilution E at 1:47 for 7 minutes and got good negs. Thanks to all that replied!

I’m in a quandary regarding development times in dilution B. Kodak recommends 3 3/4 minutes while the massive dev chart says up to 7.5 minutes. BTW, this is at ISO 400. What’s a guy to do?

Alan, thanks for sharing your expertise.

My Omega B22 manual recommends use of a third condenser above the two existing condensers when printing with a 50mm lens. Can anyone explain the function of this lens?

When I am developing with old fixer, I take a piece of film from the leader and drop it in the fixer. The rule is to fix for twice the time it takes to clear. With fresh fixer, it takes about a minute to clear and then I fix for 5 minutes. I usually toss the fixer before it hits the stated capacity. I’m sure other knowledgeable folks have better ideas. YMMV!

Joe, I’ve heard the term “digital workflow”, and I can kinda guess what you mean. I have only done a little digital printing with Elements, so no, I don’t have a workflow.

I am getting back into to film and I am considering going with a hybrid process, developing film and printing digital prints rather than pulling my enlarger out of storage. The scanner comes bundled with Silverfast software. Ideally, I'd not like to invest too much. WillI need software beyond Silverfast, or can I use Photoshop Elements and my existing Epson printer. I'm not looking for chapter and verse directions, just some general guidance and resource recommendations. Thank you! Mike

While hauling out my old film gear, I came across 4 rolls of 35mm Tri-X shot about 15 years ago and never developed. I'm going to restock my chemicals going with HC-110 this time over D-76. Should I modify my development times due to the age of the images on the film? Thanks. Mike

Hi Folks, I just purchased a Gossen Luna Pro to use in revitalizing my interest in film photography. FYI, I purchased the correct Wein air cells to supply the proper voltage. To test it, I used a gray card and metered with the meter and Nikon FE. They came up with an identical exposure of 1/125 @ f5.6. I then took my Canon G11 and meter the same gray card reading 1/125 @ f5.0. I suspect the comparison is an apples and oranges comparison and that I should discard the digital reading. Possibly there are filters over the sensor that absorb some light? What does this astute group have to say? Are their any other tests I should run against the Gossen meter? FYI, I plan to use it mainly for incident light readings. I also couldn't resist picking up a second meter on ebay for $15 and I will test that as well. Mike PS - I also have a vintage Nikon F that I plan to shoot with and I will test that meter when I get some more batteries.

Thanks for all your replies!

Welcome back to film! I am going through a similar transition myself at age 62. One aspect of digital photography I've noticed is that I print fewer images. It takes away my guilty pleasure of finding an old box of photos and burning a couple of hours going through them. Even the clinkers can be fun!

I am looking to acquire a used F3HP. I have been shopping on ebay because there are a lot of them listed there. However, I notice there are quite a few for sale in Japan. Since I live in the US, I'm wondering if I'll have to deal with customs if I make a purchase there. Does anyone have experience with this kind of purchase? Mike