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Michael R Freeman

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Michael R Freeman last won the day on February 29 2016

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  1. See Roland Vink's site. Nikon Lenses Serial numbers 2050001 - 226xxxx of the 50/1.8 pancake produced for the Japanese market. More than just cosmetics. While the optics may be the same/similar, having CLA serviced multiple copies of each and every version of the Ai/AiS 50/1.8 I can confirm that internal construction is quite different from all other 50/1.8 models. NIKKOR 50mm 1:1.8 S AIS 2257006
  2. BNIF (Birds not in flight) ...;) D750, AF-S Nikkor 50/1.8G SE
  3. Morning lake mist. D7000, AF-S DX Nikkor 16~85mm @30mm
  4. There is also a difference in minimum focus distance. The 50/1.8s pancake in Dieter's link above (originally sold only in Japan, s/n 2050001 and up) has a 0.45m minimum focus versus 0.6m for the Mk.II chrome ring version of the Series E (s/n 1900001 and up). The final version of the AiS 50/1.8 Nikkor exported worldwide (s/n 4000001 and up) shared the 0.6m minimum focus of the Series E. There are also differences in internal construction. The Japan 50/1.8s pancake has all metal helicoids. The chrome ring Mk.II Series E (and final AiS 50/1.8 Nikkor) has metal (3) and plastic (1) helicoid threads. The Japan pancake and Mk.II Series E has a metal focusing ring. The final AiS 50/1.8 Nikkor has a plastic focusing ring. The Japan pancake has a metal aperture ring, the other two have a plastic aperture ring. See Roland Vink's excellent database here: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html#50slow
  5. Late November sunrise. D7000, AF-S DX 16~85mm VR
  6. I have seen this as well. As Matthew noted, only suitable on certain early Nikkors where the rear skirt of the aperture ring would not touch the AI tab. There isn't actually enough material extending beyond the bayonet mount on these particular aperture rings to mill a notch to engage the AI tab for a John White style conversion.
  7. Nikon D7000, AiS Nikkor 300/4.5 EDIF American Black Ducks
  8. Yes. A lot of surface area on all those helicals. A very light grease and very little of it is required for smooth focusing. In my limited experience, it's the rear CRC group helicals (lower left) that are responsible for the very stiff focus (and sticky oily aperture blades) in a 55/2.8 lens that requires service. Bought one years ago for next to nothing that was literally locked up tight, but focused beautifully after a cleaning and relube.
  9. Agreed. As noted, unless you have a secret parts source located at the end of a rainbow guarded by a tiny leprechaun for a lens that was discontinued 35 years ago, your only likely source for a rear element group is a donor lens. And if you're going to try to find and buy a donor lens, you might as well buy a good fully functioning lens. I doubt they are very expensive. Chances are also good that any lens with the severe impact damage shown in your photo has other hidden problems. If you want to have some fun, take a look at Richard Haw's directions here and see how far you can break this one down before you give up. ;):) Repair: Nikon 70-210mm f/4 Series-E
  10. If the aperture assembly is deep inside this lens, then it might have very long mechanical linkage(s) attached to the aperture ring that could make reassembly tricky. My guess is that the aperture is between the 3rd and 4th elements when viewed from the back? If you remove the mount screws and slowly lift it straight off, you will probably be able to see what is directly attached to the aperture ring. Might be a simple "fork" engaging another lever, or it could be a long lever fixed to the aperture ring reaching deeper into the lens. AF-S Nikkor 500mm f/4D IF-ED II
  11. It might not be "pro", but it's a robust and very well made DSLR with magnesium alloy body construction and a bright pentaprism viewfinder, shutter is tested to 150k cycles, it can autofocus older screwdrive AF/AF-D lenses and it meters with non-CPU manual focus Nikkors. In short, a great camera for beginners or even advanced amateurs who don't need or want the latest and greatest. And if I read the OP's post correctly, it was FREE! Can't go wrong with that. :)
  12. Absolutely. If you already own it, shoot with it, have fun with it. It's not the latest and greatest, but it's still a very capable camera. Truth be told, its capabilities probably exceed the needs of most people who still own one (myself included). Although I have not used the AF-S 18~105, it is a good lens for a beginner with a nice field of view from moderate wide angle to medium telephoto. I recently updated to FX with a D750, but I kept my D7000 for 300mm and longer telephoto use.
  13. Erik Lund over on the NikonGear forum also added a Dandelion CPU chip to an AiS 50/1.2 about 5 years ago for Bjørn Rørslett. If I remember correctly, it involved milling a relief in the rear lens element!
  14. It can be CPU chipped, but it's not a DIY project. And not inexpensive I would guess. :-) The Unicorn CPU Nikkors: 50 and 55 1.2s
  15. Hopefully you have a bad flash. The fact that it wakes up from standby mode and you are getting a flash ready indication in the viewfinder indicates that at least the F4 is communicating with the flash. I have a less than favorable opinion of the SB-600. The one I used to own failed twice. Official Nikon Canada unit. It would randomly not fire (on a D200), eventually to the point that it would not trigger more often than it would successfully fire. Sent it in to Nikon Canada and they repaired it. Forget what they replaced but it was a major repair. Used the repaired flash (now on a D7000) for probably less than 6 months after it was returned to me when it failed again, this time completely. Would not fire even off camera with the test button. Tossed the damn thing in the garbage and bought a new SB-700.
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