mccosh

<p>Sorry uploaded a picture of the Canon one's but they also make them for Nikon that I use with my D600.</p>

<p>I tried it and ditched it as it is to unreliable outdoors in daylight. Have now switched to the Phottix Odin flash trigger and receivers. These are 100% reliable up to 100 mtrs and can trigger the flash units around corners. Allow TTL and high speed sync with three groups and all can be adjusted from the camera unit including flash zoom on each group.</p><div></div>

<p>I agree Eric that stabilization is nice to have but if your trying to cut down weight then as it seems an overkill on a 24-70mm lens that you would only make use of if shooting at 1/15sec or lower. I wouldn't recommend shooting anybody at these low speeds.</p> <p>I also agree that on a DX camera that the 28-75mm is a little long but the OP did mention that he was looking at moving to a full frame camera.<br /><br />This was shot at 1/60sec at f/2.8 ISO 800 with the D600 I can shoot up to ISO 3200 without noise being present so I really don't see the need for stabilization on this lens.</p><div></div>

<p>No disrespect to your comment Eric, but why do you need stabilization on a 24mm - 70mm lens when shooting portraits. You should be able to hand hold this without stabilization at 1/60sec at the long end of the zoom range. To capture sharp images of portraits and freeze people's movements you would want to be at least this speed for people standing still and I would recommend a much faster speed for children running around. <br /><br />This is the reason I opted for the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 lens that is non stabilized but is much lighter and smaller than the stabilized Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. </p>

<p>If your looking for a standard zoom that's still f/2.8 and is super light and small Then check out the 28 - 75mm Tamron f/2.8 I currently use this on my Nikon D600 and get amazing sharp images and is very compact and light and is also very reasonably priced.</p>

<p>Lightroom while still do what you want. Have each person add a keyword with their name by using the paint can. from the toolbar.</p>

<p>The histogram by itself tells you nothing. The image obviously has a lot of dark and bright area's in it and not much in between. You need to also post the image so we can see what needs to be fixed.</p>

<p>I have never had a problem with my D600 moving off the Raw setting. Maybe it is because I never use these buttons when the camera is up at my eye. I predominantly shoot is Aperture priority mode. Where I use the front dial to adjust the aperture and the rear dial to adjust the ISO eliminating the need to use these rear button's.<br /><br />This might help you Sam<br /><br />John</p>

<p>Sorry I can't answer your question but I can recommend the Tamron 28 - 75mm f/2.8 lens teamed up with my D600 is giving me increadably sharp images. Check some out <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com/Client-Galleries/Jack--Gabrielle">here</a>. Now looking at buying the Tamron 70 - 200 f/2.8 <br /><br />John</p>

<p>I supply my clients with all their images, can be at times over 1,000 images. I find it just as easy to edit all images by synchronizing settings in Lightroom for each group of shots than the time it takes to select the best images from each group. You also run the risk that what you think is not worth while giving to the couple is a shot that they love for some reason or another. Easier just to give them them all except any that are obviously out of focus or eyes shut or makes the bride or groom look bad.</p> <p>Hope this helps<br> John<br> <a href="http://www.mccoshphotography.com">McCosh Photography</a></p>