mc2imaging

How many of you are on FB? Justin mentioned this the other day and we decided we need to do this again. I have a big pile of P3 series cameras I bought used to teach photo classes with (because they were cheaper than K1000s… lol) so if something bad happens in shipping I won’t be heartbroken. Here’s the contender. I pulled it out of its bag and it fires off great. I’ll run a test roll through it before it gets shipped out!

<p>Katz: 68k<br> Other: 40k<br> On the surface I seem to be slowing down, but I did buy a K-r a few years back. It was mostly for video, but it does make a nice travel/walkaround cam. I use it a lot at work too, but the K10Ds are still my go-to cameras for the paying jobs...</p>

<p>No, I don't have a manual for your camera, and I've never had one, so I cannot tell you where this setting is. You probably need to put it in video mode and drive down into some menus to change it, but that's all I can tell you. Canon probably has the manual online, or try some of the guys over in the Canon forum.</p> <p>As far as the 4 gig limit goes, no, you can't change that. The camera will never make a file larger than 4 gig, period.</p>

<p>Looks like the 650D will do:<br> 1920 x 1080 (29.97, 25, 23.976 fps)<br> 1280 x 720 (59.94, 50 fps)<br> 640 x 480 (30, 25 fps)<br> Pick a lower resolution and/or a lower frame rate and your file size will shrink. </p>

<p>Does the D5300 have an AE Lock button (or a button that can be programmed as an AE-L)? My K-r used to drive me nuts because it won't go full 'manual' in video mode, but when I like what I see I can hit the AE-L button and lock the exposure down.</p>

<p>I know nothing about the D750, so I can't give specifics, but I do have some questions...<br> Are you viewing the files as captured, or have you re-compressed them?<br> Can you plug your camera directly into a TV and view the footage there? <br> I never trust what I see on a computer. Too many variables like boggy processor, drive lag, image re-sampling and refresh rates... To me, playback on the computer is for reference only during editing until you have a final dump that has been properly compressed for the task at hand. I know what I got when I shot it, so I don't use the computer's representation to determine image quality of raw footage. At a minimum, use a real TV as a secondary monitor so that the scan rate of the footage (mind your 'p's and 'i's) matches what the display is trying to show you.<br> Can you change the shutter speed but keep the frame rate at 25p? A slower shutter will give more motion blur and should reduce the jerkiness. Obviously there's a trade-off there that may require some experimenting, but in finding the balance of natural motion between too digital and too blurry, I wouldn't change from 25p if what you are looking for is a more film-like look.</p>

<p>I can't give you specifics on this camera, but I can try to fill in a couple gaps:</p> <ul> <li>8mm and Super8 are very different and not cross compatible. The original 8mm film was actually 16mm wide that was only exposed down one side, flipped, and exposed on the other. During processing, the film was split down the middle and spliced together. Super8 was 8mm wide with smaller sprocket holes for more image area on the film. If it takes Super8, it will say so.</li> <li>Back in the day, you bought color film for indoors or outdoors. The indoor film was typically called tungsten film as it was balanced for tungsten light as there is obviously no opportunity for color correction when you use this process. The Type A filter should be a warming filter so you can use indoor film outdoors.</li> </ul>

<p>I guess the question is how much time and money are you willing to invest. There are no shortage of conversion houses out there that will put them on DVD or give you a digital file. If there are a LOT of films, you might consider doing it yourself. The cheapest way is to project them and point a video camera at the projected image. For best results, you can get a film scanner that will digitize each individual frame. Last I looked at one, they ran about $1600. If you hire it done, you might ask what method will be used and pick a service house accordingly.</p>

<p>If you are not stuck on any particular brand, I'd look at Pentax or some of the 4/3's gear. You can get excellent image quality on both still and video out of many of the more compact options.<br /><br />My default DSLR video rig (when I'm not shooting w/a Panasonic AVCHD cam) is a Pentax K-r with a DA* out front. BEAUTIFUL image quality in relatively light weight, compact package. Even the lightweight, plastic framed kit lens is optically excellent (and I haven't broken it yet - 3 years and counting). For interviews, you'd probably want something a bit higher end (the K-r has no audio in), but don't limit yourself to the Canikon bunch. There are LOTS more options out there.</p>