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martin_dake

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  1. If you are missing the baseboard you are probably missing the baseplate as well as the bolts and dogs/lugs. The base plate is attached to the baseboard and the dogs/lugs hold the column to this using the bolts and collars. The bolt and lug sets are easy found on eBay but not so easy to find the baseplate part unless you find a complete baseboard. Try KHB photographic as they seem to have baseplate and bolt sets... Baseplate and Mounting Hardware for Omega D & E Enlargers - Used KHB is a great resource for learning about Omega enlargers. The Omega Enlarger Guide: Simmon Omega Enlargers menu page Make sure you understand the differences between D2 and DII as there are differences with mounting. I have a D5, actually a couple, if you need pictures of respective mounting parts. Another option is to forget mounting to a baseboard and mount it to a wall instead. This might be easier with just some steel bar or angle iron. Do a google search for wall mounting Omega D, I am sure this can be done without an original Omega bracket without a lot of work.
  2. The Film Strip Holder from a ES-E28 will fit the ES-1. The ES-E28 was a set made for Nikon point and shoot and can be found on eBay etc for next to nothing. It comes with the adapter to fit a point and shoot, a film strip holder and a slide holder for 2 slides; the adapter part is not needed for use with an ES-1. When using the ES-E28 film strip holder with the ES-1 you cannot slide the strip holder from frame to frame as the springs in the ES-1 get in the way so you have to remove the holder and move the to the next frame. Or, as someone else pointed out you could modify the ES-1 by removing the slide holder springs.
  3. <p>I have several of the self-contained slide duplicators mentioned by Rodeo Joe but probably by different names.<br /> While these are simple to use they will crop on a APS-C camera to were you only get the center 66% of your slide. Even though they are "Zoom" the zoom goes the wrong way and crops even more. <br /> The reason for this is they were made to use on 35mm film cameras.<br /> There are newer recreations of these self contained units of varying quality that would work on APS-C sized cameras but I doubt the objects are as good as a regular lens.</p>
  4. <p>Try that again for the picture...</p><div></div>
  5. <p>Here is a picture of my setup, mounted on my D200.<br /> The film strip holder is at the side and the slide holder mounted in the adapter.</p> <p> </p>
  6. <p>The problem with the old cheap slide duplicators from years ago is they will crop a 35mm slide if used on an APS-C camera like a Nikon D200 as they were made for full frame 35mm; not to mention the poor optics contained within them.</p>
  7. <p>I found these articles very useful when I was researching the same thing.</p> <p>http://www.throughthefmount.com/articles_tips_digitise.html<br /> http://www.scantips.com/es-1c.html</p> <p>The simplest solution is to buy a 60mm Micro Nikkor and an ES-1 slide copy attachment.<br /> I have a D200 and D90 and a 55mm Micro Nikkor with Nikon M2 and K1-5 extensions.<br /> I did not want to spend a lot of money and a PB4 Bellows unit goes for a lot of money but it is probably the simplest solution.<br /> Even the Nikon ES-1 Slide Copy adapter is $60 and while it works for slides it does not really work for negatives without modification.<br /> I decided to see what I could do with what I had on hand and for little additional cash spending.</p> <p>I cobbled together what I had on hand and a Nikon Es-28 slide/negative holder. I ended up with my Nikon D90 with the M2 extension and my Nikkor Micro 55mm. I adapted the ES-28 to the front of my lens with a 49mm and 55M-55M filter adapter. I found this put the slide to close to the camera and would not focus without cropping so I used a couple of K tubes between the lens and slide holder to put the focus point further out.</p> <p>The reason why I went with the Nikon ES-28 is it comes with both a slide holder and a 35mm film strip holder for negatives, I wanted to digitize negatives as well. The ES-28 can be picked up very cheap, I got mine new for $9 plus shipping. The ES-28 was made to attach to the front of an early Nikon point and shoot but it was perfect for what I needed once I adapted it for my needs.</p> <p>Just a note...<br /> My 55mm Micro Nikkor is Non AI which is a no no on a Nikon digital DSLR; however, my M2 tube while technically pre AI is quite safe to use on a Nikon DSLR.<br /> Plenty of other lenses will do the same thing, even old 35-70 or kit lenses can be used just by extending either the lens from body or slide adapter from lens. Many even reverse a normal lens to accomplish macro capability.</p> <p>I have an Epson scanner that I have used and still use for medium and large format but for 35mm using a DSLR is so much faster.<br /> Good luck</p>
  8. <p>I have this lens but I have never used it for Macro, I don't use it for much of anything really so I can't comment on the image quality.<br> I think Pentax had a bit of a stretch calling it a Macro lens as it is more of a close focus lens.<br> It will focus as close as 2.5 feet which according to the literature I have with the lens is 0.3 magnification and a long way from 1:1.</p> <p>I think pretty much any lens needs extension to achieve 1:1.<br> I have the Pentax extension tube set but even using #1, 2 1 and 3 extension tubes will not give 1:1; I seem to remember reading somewhere you still need to add the helicoid extension tube to achieve 1: or beyond.</p> <p> </p>
  9. You can also use glass Soda or water bottles, some brands use glass bottles like San Peligrino. Also, ask nicely at your local pharmacy if you can buy a few medicine bottles. They will either sell you, or just give, a few new medicine bottles or ones used for their bulk supply. Where are you located that you have trouble getting them at a decent price?
  10. <p>Set the shutter speed dial on the body to the mark with the red dot, it is between 1000 and B.<br> The ASA (ISO) dial is on the prism, pull it out and turn to the correct ASA.<br> Look through the viewfinder and press the white button on the right side of the prism and adjust the aperture on the lens or shutter speed dial on the prism so that the meter shows the correct exposure in the viewfinder; do not turn the shutter speed dial on the body.</p> <p>Do you have the camera yet, it will make sense once you have the camera and the manual.</p> <p> </p>
  11. <p>Depends what your definition of "works" is.<br> Without a battery the camera is not usable. The fact that the shutter will open without a battery and close if you press the battery check is not really a camera that "works". In order to fully assess if the camera works correctly and use it for taking pictures you will need a battery. Don't forget if the camera has a metered prism (PDS prism) the battery also powers it.<br> </p>
  12. <p>The Mamiya 645 1000s requires a 6 volt PX28 type battery to work correctly as the shutter is electronically controlled. If you cock and fire the shutter without a battery in the camera the shutter will open and remain open until you press the battery check button.<br /> You should check out Mike Butkus's site for the manual; consider leaving a small donation as Mike requests as he does a great job keeping us old camera types supplied with manuals.</p> <p><a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_m645_1000s/mamiya_m645_1000s.htm">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_m645_1000s/mamiya_m645_1000s.htm</a></p> <p>Good luck with your 645, I have a couple and they are some of my favorite cameras to use.</p>
  13. Don't give up on your 3200. I believe if you purchase Vuescan it will work with Win 10 as it does not need the Epson drivers, much cheaper than buying a new scanner.
  14. I found this article very helpful when getting started with my Epson scanner. http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/scanning/index.php
  15. <p>My life is now complete, a post of mine is the first link in a Google search and it is to do with Hand Jobo.</p> <p>Seems my iPad went a bit weird with the auto complete so I will repeat this part....<br> <strong>I am not sure how well Jobo tanks perform when used with larger quantities of liquid but you could just place the reel in the tank, pour in water until the reel is covered then measure the amount of water and use that much developer and fixer etc when developing by hand.</strong></p>
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