markonestudios

I used WW about 5 years ago for a couple of seasons. I found it more useful as a tool to network with other vendors than a way to secure bookings. I got lots of enquiries but many of them were not serious and I suspect were just other newbie vendors trying to check pricing etc. I stopped paying for it because the ROI was almost non-existent but I still maintain a profile there. I earned WW badges 2 years in a row so I use those as part of my marketing even now. In reality, if you shoot a certain number of weddings a year and get clients to rate you on WW, you will get the badge. The couples don't have to have found you on wedding wire. The only criteria is that you shot the wedding that year, if I recall correctly. It may be worth it for some but I suspect not in the way that it gets sold to you by WW.

Having just walked the OP's walk, spending months to select a medium format system to get back into shooting film, I am curious about a couple of things: 1. Why the Mamiya 645 hasn't been suggested (whether the 1000s or the 645 Super, Pro or Pro TL). 2. Why a number of folks are giving advice that is pretty much ignoring the OP's fairly clear wishlist: wants to shoot outdoors handheld; doesn't want to use a WLF; doesn't want a TLR; would prefer 6x6 but seems like he can live with a 645... I ended up going for a Mamiya 645 Pro with WG401 grip and AE prism finder. I also bought a 105-210mm f/4.5 lens and had earlier acquired a 210mm f/4 which I may well offload. My film rolls arrive shortly. So far the handling is pretty decent (handheld) and quite intuitive. The body is somewhat hefty with either lens attached, but certainly usable handheld. The split-screen focusing is a joy to use. Finally, it would be nice to hear what the OP has to say about the suggestions so far :)

Ben, thank you very much for your response! I am checking out extension tubes now. The ones I am finding on eBay seem fairly reasonable, with a number under 50 USD. I am not too worried about potentially losing the ability to focus to infinity; I plan to use the lens almost exclusively for portraits and will shoot at wider apertures anyway. Even gaining a foot or two from an 8' MFD is a big plus. I like to be closer to my models when shooting portraits. Thanks again for your help!

Hi, I am just delving into the world of medium format film and have ordered a Mamiya 645 Pro and also a 210mm lens. I do mainly headshots and portraiture. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions on how to achieve a closer focusing distance than the lens' standard 8'. I have sufficient space to work with the 8ft but I would really like to be able to work closer if possible. Looking forward to your responses. Mark

Thanks for your feedback. I am actually also looking at the 645 1000S. One thing that would be a potential determinant for me is, can I use the 150mm f/3.8 leaf shutter lens on a 1000S? I'd like to achieve a higher sync speed than 1/60.

WOW! THis is some real dedication! I am just about to pull the trigger to get (back) into film photography. I always wanted to shoot MF so I will kill 2 birds with one stone and purchase something like a Mamiya 645 Pro. Are you planning on doing any commercial developing/printing?

I am in the "middle of researching what film camera I want to buy. I used to shoot 35mm film. I now shoot dSLR but I yearn for the look of film and have always wanted to try MF, so I am reading the thoughts in this thread eagerly as I will need to think about my new film workflow. Excellent input (mostly). Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I've been commissioned to shoot a large group photo (a society reunion) at a(n American) football stadium in about 2 months' time and am now in the process of research ahead of the shoot. My challenge is how best to capture the stadium and the group without necessarily posing the group on the bleachers or doing something cliche. I know my way around cameras and lenses and plan to bring along a fairly tall step ladder. However, I am a strong proponent of continuous learning, so I'm here to ask for tips from others who may have shot this sort of thing before. I am toying with the idea of having them pose on the grounds and form the shape of the society's initials. It will be a mid-morning shoot in the northern hemisphere so it will be summer and likely sunny. Any tips to get this done in a unique way would be very welcome! Shooting position, lenses, lighting, etc. Show and tells very welcome! Note to mods: I wasn't sure which forum to post this in, so please don't hesitate to shift this to the appropriate forum Thanks in advance!

I have owned 2 copies of the 24-105L and absolutely love how versatile it is on my full-frame. It has a very solid build (I regularly shoot in rain, etc) and great close-focus capabilities (although not quite a macro lens), so I can usually get as close as I need to. For your purposes, you may well consider the 15-85 as has been suggested. If you're not ready to buy, there are also some great rental companies (not sure if I'm allowed to mention by name, but ATS Rentals has proved to be an amazing rental company). I have tried some of the bigger name ones and they fell short)...The point is, you can try by renting before pulling the proverbial trigger.

I would agree with the 6D assessment. I have used the 6D, 5D2, 3 and 4 and for what you seek to do, I think the 6D would perform pretty solidly for you.

As usual WW hits the nail on the head. I would, however, offer a quick critique on your 2nd and 4th images. You were shooting from above the subject, leading to what is known as foreshortening, which is not a very flattering look for your subjects.

I shot my first wedding using a film SLR camera and about 8 rolls of film ranging in speed from ISO 100 to 400. I now shoot with a full-frame and a "crop-sensor" dSLR with lenses that cover 17-105mm. My preferred prime is an 85mm. Starting out, I did not have opportunities to second-shoot so I dived in headlong. If you do have the chance to shoot alongside a seasoned pro who is willing to share/transfer knowledge, that may do better for you than any amount of gear. Before you buy more gear, take time to develop your photographic style. For example, many pros swear by the 70-200mm lens but in my many years of shooting weddings, I haven't ever owned or desired to own one because (and this is key) it doesn't fit my style. Experiment, rent or borrow gear before spending money. The only thing I would term critical is having a backup/second body.

<p>There are websites such as fiverr.com where you can get graphic design work done for as little as $US 5.00. Of course, as with most things, you usually get what you pay for.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I'm late to the party here. I agree with Michael and WW. Finish them and hand them over within the contractual leadtime.</p> <p>I also fully agree about the objective criticism of your work.One must develop somewhat of a thick skin in this business.</p> <p>I think it is also a better strategy to not post the VERY best ones on your FB page immediately after the event but rather save those till the couple receives their photos, after which you can then post the creme de la creme. </p>

<p>Julie Anne, You have two very separate issues here. What may work for photography may not work for video. Real estate photography usually requires higher depth of field to get the details all sharp. So you want to be shooting at perhaps f/8 or more.</p> <p>Whereas your "kit" lens may suffice for this if you have a sturdy tripod, it will definitely limit you if shooting in smaller spaces. Canon's 10-22 is a decent lens, but also look at the numerous 3rd party lenses such as Tokina's 11-16mm f/2.8.</p> <p>For video, that's an entirely different proposition. To get really good video you need to be looking at shoulder-mount rigs with gyro stabilizers, supplemental lighting, possibly dollies, etc. Lens-wise, you likely want a lens with a wide aperture and shoot it close to wide open, to enable you focus on particular details in the space.</p> <p><br />Before you buy, if you are able to, it would do you good to rent various body/lens combinations and decide what works best.</p> <p>I would actually suggest you look into acquiring a refurbished 5D Mark II which can be had within your budget. Pair that with, say, a Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L lens for stills and decide on an appropriate focal length for video and you have a formidable tool to accomplish what you're after. If you are doing this commercially, you can work in the cost of renting whatever lenses you need before deciding. The holy grail for interior photography lenses is probably Canon's excellent TS-E (tilt-shift) lenses. These eliminate wide-angle lens distortion and are very sharp.</p>