mark_s11

<p>Now that I understand soft proofing, matte printing with genuine or third party ink has equally been a problem with that specific sandy cast, the printed photo has shown it just like in the monitor. The problem is now I don't know how to readjust the shifting effectively and have it look more like the default file.</p>

<p>What's available right now is a Canon inkjet MG5420 with it's own Canon matte paper, the ink is third party. Right now the difficulty is getting rid of that sandy yellowish cast that develops when switching to the matte proof setup while editing the photo. I've been trying different contrast adjustments and color filters but it doesn't get close to looking like the original default look, is there anything else I could do here?</p>

<p>Thanks for your help,<br> I'm trying the soft proof method to see how much improvement may be possible but I'm having a difficult time bringing dark shadow areas/black colors into gamut, I'm almost sure this could be the root cause of the color depth problem. Adding lightness helps the whole image but there is no contrast and adding or darkening thereafter brings again the gamut problem in the dark areas, any idea how to fix this?</p>

<p>Hi all, I'm not sure where to post this question, the issue is with printing photos.<br> So I've tried lab printing for small prints but they mostly look bad haha. The only time that prints match up is when I do posters from their large format printer meaning the problem isn't likely my calibration because posters look almost exactly if not better from what I see on the monitor. The problem with lab prints of small sizes is that they tend to have people in the photos look excessively oily with a strange combination of skin tonality and shadows.<br /><br /> I've also tried inkjet prints, that's not any better. I've tweaked the monitor to finally fit the proper brightness, contrast, gamma and color tone of the inkjet printer but the printed photo is still not good. The print matches the screen to a satisfactory perception level but the color depth is bad no matter what I do with tweaking and paper combos. The photos have this gummy sort of like they've been soaked in water type of look. The only photos that tend to be marginally satisfactory are close up portraits, anything else is bad.<br /><br /> Are there any other options? a type of printer that is accessible that does lab quality printing so I can control calibration or a lab that has a preset calibration and allows you to edit photos using their color system?</p>

<p>Hi, does anyone know where I can learn the technique to make old places and foliage look crisp but with the smooth bokeh feeling to it?</p>

<p>Hi eveyone,<br />I'm looking for portable lighting to light up (fill in light) subjects in outdoor scenes for example under trees or backlit scenes but I don't know what that type of lighting it is and if it works with battery or electricity, any tips would be very much appreciated.</p>

<p>Hello, does anyone know what type of photo paper is the kind to print poster sized images that can be put in a frame without having to add glass to the frame to protect it? I've noticed a really smooth matte finish to the pictures, sort of like those add on book covers on hard cover books but without the glossy look, additionally it seems to have sort of a soft charcoal look and feel to it, not sure if charcoal is the right term to describe it, but I hope you can help me out, thank you.</p>

<p>Hi, I set up a white background with bright light in front to keep the shutter speed at least 1/50 at 2.8 using the 50mm 1.8 lens, the problem is that in some pictures people come out really crisp sharp yet in others they look a bit fuzzy, I don't shake when I snap the photo, but now I feel like I'm not sure where to focus the camera (face, clothes, or flowers in front of person) because the results are inconsistent, maybe something is wrong with the setup? could you help me find out ways to improve so I can create more consistent results?</p>