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mark_kesper

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  1. <p>Aw, sorry. I forgot to make a link for it. My bad.<br /> Here is a correct link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t0pkrmc9al571k5/AACZo2GSmwYJofKzdBpdOFyoa?dl=0</p>
  2. <p>Hi!<br /> I recently took out from the storage my Minolta Dynax 4 and discovered that is seems to have a vertical yellow stripe along the viewfinder. Considering that I'm the only owner (and it's one of my first cameras that has been together with a few other been very influental about how I take pictures) it's kind of a bummer. <br /> So I'm wondering what it might be? Is it a variation of the Blue Viewfinder tint some Dynaxes get affected by? Or is it something else? Does it affect the images or the focusing sensor? Is it possible to repair?<br /> Took some images of it using my smartphone. Sorry for the bad quality. <br /> 1. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photonet/Minolta?preview=WP_20160403_12_45_13_Raw.jpg">Link</a> (Dropbox)<br /> 2. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photonet/Minolta?preview=WP_20160403_12_45_16_Raw.jpg">Link</a><br /> 3. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/home/Photonet/Minolta?preview=WP_20160403_12_45_32_Raw.jpg">Link</a><br /> Since also the corners seems affected I wonder whether it's something at the mirror prism that off-center, focusing screen needing re-adjustment?.</p> <p>I recently bought a Sony 70-300 G SSM to use with this camera (have a older 505si that doesn't work with it since the SSM requires newer chips I guess) and trying to find use for my A700 also.</p>
  3. <p>I usually shoot JPEG + RAW since long. And try to make the JPEG as good as possible even if it's a bit hard.<br> However I wonder if it's maybe for tricky lightning and night photography better to shoot a lower resolution JPEG than full resolution (I always have the RAW) if the camera that way resizes the full rez image to a smaller one and noise "drowns" in the downscaling process? <br> Anyone know how that would work? Or would the noise get worse? <br> Say that instead of 24 MP JPEG+RAW one would use 16-18 MP JPEG + RAW?</p>
  4. Hi! I would like to ask if anyone with experience can give any recommendations about the following: Is either a A700 or a A580 and a Sony 70-300 4.5-5.6 SSM G is a good combo for telephoto action and perhaps portraits (various lighting conditions). I have a A700 which focuses incorrectly with a Sigma 17-70, so I sold the Sigma after failing to adjust the camera. But I am offered a 70-300 G for a OK price and I am thinking if it's worth keeping the A700 and calibrate it solely for that lens. Or if the A580 is a better choice? Reason for not getting newer camera: 1. I'll probably be buying a NX1 and all EVF cameras today drain the battery faster than OVF cameras still. I want to be able to wait and measure/focus for a long time if necessary. 2. Budget limits. 3. Also..the A580 seems to score quite ok according to DXO. 4. I have a Nikon D2Xs that in theory should be quicker with the right lens but I am not exploring that option now due to the whole package being heavy -Sonys cameras are a bit lighter- and for ISO 1250-1600 I'm not sure the results will be sufficient.
  5. I know that, and have read the manuals. There it sounds,quite simple. Now what I want is to know is if it also really that simple and bug-free in practice. That's a different question. Because say the process is really buggy and slow - then there is no point using that system perhaps.
  6. <p>I am looking into how Samsung but also other brands like Sony, Nikon etc have implemented the transfer to smartphone/tablet or straight to Social Media or online storage options.<br> So mostly I'd like to ask if someone has had any experience with those apps like primarily Samsungs (Smart Camera App/Manager and their "siblings") or Sony's Play Memory app - is it a breeze to use or a horrific expericence? <br> Looking for a way to transfer batches of full-res JPEGS from camera to smartphone in a very efficient and easy way. If an app is far to unstable and tricky to use it's kind of a downturn. In the manuals for Samsung NX1/NX30 and Sony A77ii it sounds really easy.</p> <p>As a alternative I have maybe thought connecting a SD-card reader to a smartphone, but I don't know if such readers exist. It has to be quiet fast. </p>
  7. <p>@Patrick S Well, I have had thoughts about selling the entire system just because of that. On one hand used Sony and old Minolta equipment is really good and fairly cheap. On the other hand nothing new seems to happen. <br> I have also thought of keeping the lenses and moving to a NEX/E system. However, those cameras are not as ergonomical, even if they have really good specs. But - it would mean buying a A-/E adapter and maybe not being able to use the flash. </p> <p>@parv Yes. Indeed. that's sad. I have tried adjusting but I think i need a prime for doing it really good and a tripod to. Sorry, but I am not really interested in buying another A700. I would be more interestedc in a A580 or similar, or a A850/A900 if they were cheaper. At the moment I am saving up to be able to move so that's why I am not just buying something new. </p>
  8. <p>Hi!<br> I have a Sony A700 which I suspect has the focus off. I have tried calibrating it myself since sending it in would require postage to another city (more expensive then the camera is worth) but with a Sigma 17-70 it's not really easy. <br> Is it worth keeping it and trying to get hold of a 50 mm 1.7 prime or similar of better to sell it off together with the rest of the Sony equipment: <br> Flash HVL58AM<br> Sigma 17-70 mm f/2.8-4.0 (non-C)<br> Kit 18-55 lens.<br> Minolta 80-300 mm f/4.5-5.6<br> I have had an ad for the Sigma and the kit lens for a while here online in Sweden, but the interest seems to be really low for Sony/Minolta A here. <br> Or is it smarter to try and get a A580/A57? </p>
  9. <p>I wonder if a SB-24 would be OK off-flash for a Nikon V1 and SB-N5. Can't I trigger it using the SB-N5 in some manual trigger mode?</p> <p>Saw here in Stockholm in the classifieds a SB-24 quite cheap so thought of buying it. </p>
  10. <p>@Stephen Lewis<br /> Thanks. It seems that the camera was front focusing. I have tried to adjust the focusing by using this method. <a href="http://www.dynaxdigital.com/sony-alpha-crop-sensor-camera-discussion/method-for-adjusting-backfront-focus-on-the-a700-and-other-sony-cameras/15/">http://www.dynaxdigital.com/sony-alpha-crop-sensor-camera-discussion/method-for-adjusting-backfront-focus-on-the-a700-and-other-sony-cameras/15/</a> since sending in might cost quite alot and cost more then the 50% of the camera worth nowadays.<br /> Here is a gallery with some (65) test photos https://www.dropbox.com/sc/o7jdbo0f1axwsc4/AABlfB0InAMVSIhLLjl7If-7a#/ . Most of them are taken at different focal lengths, but mostly with max aperture (f/2.8 - 4). Focus is mostly the central sensor spot. Since I'm not sure of how the 100% in focus and 100% crop looks like, I'd appreciate if someone could verify if the adjustment worked of if it's still a little front focusing.<br> Also, I'm not sure if the resulting sharpness and resolution might be whata Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC HSM (non-C) can do. I don't have any prime lens for this system. I guess it would have been easier with a 50 mmm f/1.4. </p>
  11. <p>Hi!<br> I recently bought a used Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC OS HSM MACRO, the non-C version for a fairly good price and I am testing it on a Sony A700 I do have.<br> It seems farirly OK and so, but I sometimes wonder if the focusing is right. <br> So my questions: <br> 1. Any tips & tricks for how to use properly or better the Sony A700 AF focusing system? I've read the manual but it didn't really clear anything up, it seems that there isn't any good way to make pinpoint while in "wide" AF-mode the camera to use the focus points on the side, it just uses them now and then. <br> 2. How do I really test if the Sigma Lens if focusing correct, and /or Front och Backfocusing? I've got 2 weeks to test it and take it back to the store if it's not functioning correctly or just happens to be incompatible. </p> <p>Also, anyone who knows where to find a better explanations of a configuration for the Creative colors? I find them a bit on the strange side. I usually use a big Nikon so there everything is rather straightforward. <br> Otherwise the color rendering seems fine as long as one doesn't trust the screen to much. </p>
  12. <p>In conclusion I bought the Sigma 17-70 for Sony.<br> Howeever it turned out to be the previous Sigma 17-70 non C HSM MACRO. But the price was OK so I'm trying it out. Trying to see if I have some issues with it. Together with the big flash it seems to work well. Of course in twilight it's has problems finding focus fast, but that's unusual.</p>
  13. <p>@Wouter Willemse, Jochen Schrey & Edward Ingold and also Robin Smith. <br /> To answer the question about which camera I like to use most. Well it depends, but usually it's the big and small Nikons. I really like along time ago to use my Minolta Dynax 4 before I switched to digital and got a Nikon D70/18-70/SB-800 flash. With that I generated most of the images I have. Essentially since I learned it good. I have not used the Sony A700 alot due to uing my old Minolta lenses on it wasn't really a good idea. <br />So I am looking at having at least one complete package. The Sony might be worth as a test to fit that bill since I have a flash as well. However I'm not against getting a 18-70 again and sticking it on the D2Xs together with a SB-800 flash - same price. But the weight of that keeps putting me off. And somehow I doubt that the 18-70 is really good in terms of resolution and focus speed. But maybe someone has tested that.<br /> Overall, you have a point about saving the rest for a big upgrade later on, and that's what I intend to do (Wouter & Jochen)<br />A D7100 or D300(s) might be a alternative i I continue with Nikon.<br /> Btw, I Nikon will repair my 1 system 10-30, it seems it got the lens error that some of them get over time. As I understand it is covered by the warranty.<br /> I'm not against Fuji, but as said here, it's a bit more expensive system to buy in into and while I really like the rendering output, it wouldn't make economical sense for me to invest in it now. <br />For the actual money now, the Sigma lens I tested is worth a test compared to the Sony SSM 16-50, which is too expensive - especially considering the future for the A-mount. The only real difference would be that it's weather sealed (so far).<br /> Pairing the big D2Xs with a 18-70 would be nice, but I'm not sure about the result, might be slow. And the total system weight with that and flash would be not your typical "walkaround" choice. (around 2.5 kg?) The D70 equivalent was a I remember around 1.7 kg which is well still heavy after 3-6 hours. :)<br> *EDIT* Just for interest sake I calculated approximatelyhow much the Sony system with the Sigma would weight.<br> Approximate:<br> 1. Big Nikon: D2Xs + 18-70/3.5-4.5 + SB-800 = ca 2.5 kg<br> 2. Sony A700 + Sigma 17-70 + HVL58-AM with batteries (ca 200 grammes) = ca 1.8 kg<br> 3. Fuji* X-E1 + 16-50 + Nissin i40 with batteries (202 + 200 grammes) = ca 1 kg. <br> Well, Fuji wins here obivously. *Bad t's a to expensive choice atm.</p>
  14. <p>Thanks the responses.<br> Was at the store testing the Sony DT 16-50 F/2.8 SSM lens and the Sigma 17-70 F/2.8-4 HSM C DC lens. <br> Prices: Sony: 420 Euro. Sigma 156 Euro. <br> Well...<br> Sony: Heavy, really fast, quiet, VERY quick follow focus reaction (updating focus while you pan and zoon) together with the Sony A700 eye-start sensor. Impressive. A bit heavy zoom control. Nice bokeh, quite uniform.<br> Sigma: Not as heavy, but not far behind. Really quick follow focus reaction, not far off, but still noticeably from the Sony lens. Impressive reach and still very clear in the viewfinder. Good bokeh, not as uniform as the Sony but well, still better than my Nikon 24 mm F/2.8 AF-D in many situations. <br> Both lenses seems clear. Shot indoor just to check. <br> The camera together with Flash and either of the lenses is fairly heavy. So going for a better zoom kit might be OK as a One short-medium distance camera package. <br> They also have the Sony SAL 50 F/1.8 (70 euros) and 85 F/2.8(140 euros) for sale, but that would leave me with the same problem as on the Nikon side: Nothing in wideangle or normal. (3 light cheap lenses would be OK). </p> <p> </p>
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