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mark from thailand

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  1. <p>I agree with Puppy Face. My 6D battery lasts less than a day with the GPS (or Wifi) on. I tend to switch it on during a shoot, for one or two shots and then turn it off again.</p>
  2. <p>I have the 70-300 f/4-5.6 and the 70-200 f/4. I find the 70-200 a little sharper and it suffers far less from vignetting than the 70-300 on a FF camera. The 70-300 is also bulky.</p> <p>Both have their place but, if I do not need the reach, I always use the 70-200.</p>
  3. <p>150,000</p> <p>"The shutter of the EOS 5D Mark III is more 50% more durable than the shutter seen in its predecessor, with 150,000 actuations, and also offers a significantly reduced shutter lag of down to 59ms"</p> <p>http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/inside_canon_eos_5d_mark_iii.do</p>
  4. <p>This is a pretty well documented problem with on camera mounted units and wide angle lenses (< 24mm).</p> <p>For example, in the 270Ex manual "Do not use the 270EX II in the extended position with lenses that have a focal length of 30mm or less, otherwise the edges of the frame will be noticeably darker than the center. "</p>
  5. <p>Seems to be some pretty poloarised views here.</p> <p>I, too, have both bodies, married with the same lenses as the OP, with the 6D as my back-up.</p> <p>Both are great. I have had no issues with dynamic range or muddied shadows in either. However, I do not have a Nikon or Sony to compare against.</p> <p>The AF and build quality is significantly better in the MK III. The Wifi, GPS and lighter body better in the 6D.</p> <p>I think, unless you have specialist, high end needs, you will be happy with either.</p>
  6. <p>I thought 'Native ISO' is the range the sensor is designed to cope with (eg 100 - 25600), EXCLUDING the extended range you sometimes get.</p> <p>I think "Base ISO" is the increments the sensor naturally increases sensitivity in. These are typically increments of 160 or 100. Anything in-between these increments is delivered through digital under or over-exposure. I guess this is why a Canon sensor, with Base ISO of 100, 'over-exposing' to get from ISO 100 to ISO 160 can look worse than one with a Base ISO of 160. However, the Canon sensor at ISO 200, will probably look better than the ISO 160 based sensor 'over-exposed' to ISO 200.</p> <p>However, I suspect most of this is theoretical and, for the majority of us that do not pixel peep, we will get the best DR and lowest noise by sticking to the lowest ISO possible.</p>
  7. <p>Apologies for such an obvious question but I recently re-installed Photoshop CS6 and now, whenever I save, Photoshop defaults to TIFF file format.</p> <p>I thought the Save As format was a 'sticky' one and it would default to my last choice.</p> <p>However, I can change to Photoshop format, save and, when I try to save my next file, it is back to TIFF !</p> <p>I know I am not doing something really obvious but have checked Preferences, checked here and can't see a solution.</p> <p>Any thoughts?</p>
  8. <p>I have been using the 16-35 for a few years now. It is great for travelling in cities and I have been very pleased with the results. I especially like the f/2.8 wide aperture for indoor shots.</p>
  9. <p>If, by 'best image quality', you mean least noise; that is usually by using the lowest ISO setting.</p> <p>This is assuming you use the appropriate ISO to get the right Aperture and Shutter Speed needed for depth of field and exposure.</p>
  10. <p>Should be no problems at all to drain the battery and then re-charge it.</p> <p>My 6D drains VERY fast if the WiFi or GPS is switched on. I keep it off until I really need it.</p>
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