marijanradaljac

Quick update. I did order Aki-Ashai covers / leatherette and I would like to thank you again for recommendation SCL. Professional attitude. Kind in communication. Quick shipping. And perfect fit of their product on my Rolleicord IIc camera. Front, top and left covers where replaced (looking the front of the camera). Even the texture is a nice fit to original panels.

Thanks.

Why this photo of jiun der chung appeared when I posted this topic????

Hello, does anyone have a pdf file from which I can cut the leatherette for Rolleicord IIc. (and at the same time, if someone needs a pdf scann file of the Mamiya rb67 Pro-s original vinyl / leatherette covers, I did scanned mine when I took them of the camera for cleaning flattening and eventually re-gluing ). Mail me. OR …. can anyone recommend reliable, honest, professional source for pre-cut leatherette for Rolleicord 2c. By reliable I mean someone who can actually deliver what they advertise and offer on their sites, ebays, etsy`s .... So that when I click on "buy it now" button on listed/offered Rolleicord IIc covers, I actually do get covers for Rolleicord II c, not for IIa, Vb or similar (like I did and lost my money dealing with Hugostudio – no offer refund, no offer to send another set or to correct his mistake, "unwillingtohelp" communication, …). Thanks.

True. For example, a couple of weeks ago, I learned that aperture can work (be fully functional) without one blade o_O. I got this Rolleicord IIc. For free. Slow low speeds, but working - I thought. Until I found this mess behind the shutter blades . 6 out of ten where out of the pins seats, one completely deformed and one broken. I decided to disassemble the camera and shutter to at least learn something new, since I never worked on Compur aperture diaphragm before. Short version of the story... I flattened the deformed blade and (in the lack of spare parts) put the iris back together with one blade missing, cleaned and lubricated shutter mechanism and finished with fully working IIc with nine blades iris instead of ten. Chris Sherlock youtube video (thanks Chris), working on Retina was huge help. So, this was just an anecdote to back up quoted statement. Since I am week in profound Shakespearean monologues/debates - ..."to fix or not to fix things"... Don`t try this repair on 5 blades iris, at least not with some extensive hope for success.;)

It is. As Hasselblad 500, Smena 8, .... Through my working years, at the start in particularly, I learned to use all sorts of avaliable hand tools to get the desired results, but I also learned, in time, to appreciate the quality of the good tools and what those can do for me. I can understand you, but can`t agree with you. I personally enjoy both, using cameras as a photographic tools. And I also enjoy them as a kind of technical legacy, which needs some care and attention from time to time to keep them functional. I simply like to work on them, in the range of my (unfortunately) limited abilities. It is a satisfying hobby. I found time, fixing the camera, to be spend more than well. As well as the (still available) time spent on actual taking pictures, even the ones that will be appreciated just by me. And in the end, my Nikkormat was simply cheap. It is just a matter of personal preferences, interests and wishes.

It is a trying game when the parts aren`t exact match to the original specs. And not being careless idiot, but patient and precise instead, does helps too. I accidentally soldered one cds wire "directly" to the switch leaving the resistors out of circuit. It still worked but the reading was much more off. After fixing that: I managed to "fix" the meter using one old (better) cell and one new Token one. After some adjustment of the main trimmer pot I am now in the "one stop off" range. If I adjust the camera on 175-200 ISO while reference camera is on 100 I have almost identical results all over the range of apertures and speeds in different lightning situations. I probably will order few more cells, they are cheap and try to get more precise result, but for now this will do. I also found 20$ FT2 donor camera. Will see. Thanks for help.

Yes, they last forever. But I would take normal ones too. Thanks Shun. Specifications about the cds cells in the ft2 service manual (I do not have access to the ft3 service manual, which would be helpful to determine if this two cameras share the same cells) isn't really revealing at least not to me.

Hi, this is my first post here so I would like to say hello to everyone first. I have FT3 with bad cells. Not gone completely, light-meter is still in working condition but 3-4 stops off (underexposing). I checked wiring, battery compartment, cleaned variable resistor plate and contacts under the mount. Finished with smoothly moving needle but as I said, not accurate one. I tried to replace cells with 2-6kOhm Token PGM5506 cds cells (original ones where marked 6K and that is only thing that ID them - measured with ohm meter originals will be in range from 400ohm facing light bulb and to 1.3kOhm when"closed") and calibrate meter with it`s trimmer, but those new ones overexposed for 3-4 stops, with trimmer in original position. It was simply cheap test. 10 service shops in Europe declined work on it (...we don`t have spare parts...). One Swiss shop wanted over 200 eur for replacement and calibration. I am not prepared to pay that much. Replacement of the cells is one hour job most ( at least it took that much to me - amateur). Cant say about calibration. So I am in search for "for parts" body with hopefully god cds cells. Does anyone know if the cells in FT2 where the same as in ft3 (electrical characteristics) . ft2 is much easier to get than ft3. Anyone had any success finding good modern replacement? Source for a replacement pair? And finaly any ideas beside suny 16 and good lightmeter (I do that now, but I would like to have it repaired). Thanks. Marijan