marcusk

Ok, I figured it out from the MSDS. Here's the key, in case anyone else is puzzled. Flexicolor SM F1 module, v2.0 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bottle | volume (ml) | Sol’n | Chemicals ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 1 | 436 | C | 4-(N-ETHYL-N-2-HYDROXYETHYL)-2- | | | METHYLPHENYLENEDIAMINE;SODIUM BISULFITE; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 2 | 476 | Rinse |DIETHYLENE GLYCOL;NONIONIC SURFACTANT;MAGNESIUM | | |NITRATE;ISOTHIAZOLIN DERIVATIVES; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 3 | 945 | A |POTASSIUM CARBONATE;POTASSIUM SULFITE; | | |PENTETIC ACID, PENTASODIUM SALT;SODIUM SULFITE; | | |POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 4 | 118 | B | HYDROXYLAMINE SULFATE; ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- And, also, this will only create Flexicolor SM Developer Replenisher--not a Working Tank solution.

Hi, just picked up a Flexicolor F1 kit and was preparing to mix, but discovered that Kodak didn't label the bottles the same way they are referred to in the Z101.pdf. (Z101 refers to them as Part A, B, C, while the Flexicolor box is only labeled Part 1, 2, 3, 4) Can someone tell what bottle is Part A, B, C of the developer? I guessed, Part 3 = Part A, Part 4 = Part B, and Part 2 = Part C, but I'd like to be sure. Thanks, Marcus

Yep, and the minute I turn the aperture or shutter dials, the strings came off. It was fun to dig through it and learn first-hand, how tricky the mechanisms can be, though.

Just a quick update. I located the gear I need to add off-camera flash to my OM1n and OM2n so once I receive it I'll try some of this out and report back. Thanks for the advice and problem solving help.

Gary, you totally get my situation! While I've been looking around for a suitable flash, I've kind of been forced into doing the thing that is probably the most fun for me--making completely different decisions about how to shoot the subjects. I've been pulling them out toward the window, "faking" a certain operation in better light, going so far as to drag one poor barista out into the street, but it has made for some interesting and different shots and looks!

Chaz, I tried this in concept, using a LumeCube and then a Manfrotto LumiMuse. They're bright, but the light is very hard. I tried to put a collapsible diffuser in front of it (30" round) but it was too cumbersome to use in the small confines of the shop and I lost about a stop of brightness. I got caught up in the sales pitch for the LED panels some of which are saying they're bright and soft enough to use without additional diffusion. I've had a look at one or two of them but I'm leery of buying gear to solve a problem which I know photographers have dealt with for many years.

Joe, I get what you're saying about the reflector versus the bounce board. In order to soften the light from the flash, I'd need to bounce it off something that spreads the light out at as many random angles as possible. Also, I understand about the size, too, I think. Ideally, I'd put the foam core as close to the barista as possible and make it as big as practical (from your previous post, at least 12" in diameter). If I'm misinterpreting, let me know. Thanks

Bob, if I can find a flash for my OM, I'll give this a try. I hadn't really thought about using a handheld meter to test the effect of the flash when I bounced it but that makes total sense. Thanks for the info.

Joe, Yes, I agree with you about digital versus film. I'm not one of those film lovers, I actually just really love my film cameras. I started out shooting digital (an Oly EP-3 mirrorless) and I liked it, but it was fiddly and I never felt like *I* was in control. The reason I entered the film realm was that the EP-3 first got damaged and then later stolen, so I just went out and bought a cheap film camera. Now, I've had that batch of cameras and lenses stolen as well, but it doesn't hurt as much when you can replace them for $50-100 for the body. (Lenses are still painful to replace). I dug out a flash for my OM and found that it doesn't tilt or rotate so I'd have to upgrade that. Also, the other problem that you mentioned is the need to find something to bounce the flash off of would be an issue. The ceiling is quite high in this particular shop, probably 20 ft, and it's dark, rough textured wood. Also, the nearest wall is behind the barista and covered with shelves. Still, I think it's worth trying and it's another skill to add to the toolbox. I'm not prepared to give up my OMs but I hadn't thought about the environmental impacts of film for a long time and that did give me pause. Lots of water used for sure and I've been doing my own C-41 recently, too, so more chemicals. I appreciate the reality check. Thanks, again.

Digital. sigh. Yep, it would definitely be easier! thanks!

Hi, I am a 35mm film shooter taking ad hoc portraits of local baristas. I'm having difficulty capturing the baristas in action, particularly at one shop where the window light doesn't quite reach far enough. Flash is undesirable because it annoys the baristas and customers. Also, I'm shooting an Olympus OM1N and I'm not sure how to rig up off camera flash, anyway (open to learning, of course!). I've been going up the film speed ladder with Portra 400 to Portra 800 and just tried 2 rolls of Fuji Natura 1600. Didn't really care for the Fuji, so far. Portra 800 turned out much too grainy. Best results have come from CineStill 800T but I think it would be so much better if I could just add another stop of soft light. I've tried the LumeCube and a Manfrotto LumiMuse. Both seem to be almost bright enough (I'm looking for about 1 to 2 more stops) but I need to diffuse them. With an umbrella or collapsable diffuser these solutions are just too hard to setup on-the-fly and without getting in the way of the barista. I've seen some led lights that claim to be usable without additional modifiers and I'm skeptical but curious (read: ready to take the bait). Have any of you used the Fotodiox "FlapJack" edge lights?