macaluan

Thanks for the information guys, unfortunately the guy who sales the Trix expired, told me that the price were only for each roll, and no for the pack. Which sounds very expensive to me. Anyway I would like to take advantage of the post to find out if there is a film or technique to get a look similar to trix 400,or for example, using fp4 pushed 2 stops or something like that

Hi guys, how is going? well, I was searching for a good price 5 rolls pack of kodak TRI-X 120. That's very expensive in Europe at least, about 50€ the pack, so I decided maybe to keep using Ilford HP5+. But in my research, I found in eBay a shop selling a TRI-X 5 rolls pack expired in november 2019. I'm very new in film photography so maybe is to early to sumerge in the expired world, but as the price is about 5€ i'm tempted. What should I expect with these expired films?, for my knowledge, they should be fine as they expired just 6 months ago. But I wanna let experts talk about it. Another question about expired films is what people usally use them, its just for experimentations or do you use for photography that matter to you? I'm not talking about important jobs but about family photography but where you want to get good results.

Thank you Glen I have 5 color rolls in the refrigerator, as i'm not shooting a lot of color, maybe is better to wait until I have more exposed rolls. I real c41 can works well for the next 8 weeks after mixed. But I have been read in some forums saying officially it works for about 15-16 rolls, but many people were able to do more. About black and white, considering i'm using HC-110, i'm not worried about the developer as I know it can be storage for years once opened. I just take the soup I need with syringe. My questions are more concerning to fixer once mixed and specially the concentrate in the open bottle. I Saw so many different things. Nothing about the durability of the mixed, but I read people saying the concentrate can work well for years, some people only for a few months.... In the bottle says is can be okay for 1 year, or 2 months if is half bottle, but not sure if the speak about the concentrate or the mixed one. And also about the stop-bath, I know it has an indicator, but again i'm not sure how long the life is for the concentrate once opened.

Thank, I honestly think I have to improve the system, like margin the borders of the frame with black tape adhesive to avoid extra lights coming out of the frame itself. But works perfectly. I just asked about how people scan film with the digital camera due to the reason my scans once positive in lightroom, seems pretty flat, so I was wondering if I was doing something wrong with the process.Usually I have to increase contrast by moving lightroom sliders to the extremes (darks, lights, shadows etc)

Thank you AJG. I will take your advice, no longer will use the bath between stop anf fixer.

Hello people. I started developing my films a few months ago and since then I have kept constant with the process, timing, developer brand etc. I want to control the process before starting experiments. Anyway, I still have some doubts that I would like expert people to solve if possible. 1. Development process: I am using Kodak HC-100 in 1+31 solution. Kodak Stop-bath and Ilford rapid fixer. The process I follow is as follows: - In the first developments I started with a pre-wash at 20º but lately I stopped doing it because someone told me it was not necessary. - Developer at 20º, sometimes half a degree more (does it matter too much?). first minute agitation and then every 15 sec of each remaining minute. - Wash with water after the developer, I also stopped doing it since same person told me it was not necessary. I did it to avoid contaminating the rest of the chemicals. - Stopbath 20º for 1 minute constant agitation. -Another water wash for the same reason as the previous one, also stop using it. -Fixer 20º for 5 minutes, first minute agitation and 15sec of each remaining minute. -Washing, I started doing 5 minutes only , then recommended at least 10min, is what I do now, but I want to start with the Ilford washing method. -Finally photoflo. I would like you to tell me if I made a mistake in the steps or if I should change something. Especially I wonder about the temperatures, agitation times and agitation modes (agitated with the stick that comes in the pack, I never turn the tank). Some other questions about black and white development are about the duration of the chemicals. I made mixes for 500ml of the stopbath and fixer (I don't need more than 500ml since I only develop 1 roll of 120 each time). It is not clear to me how long the mixed chemicals last, or how many rollls they are worth. In some webs I read that the fixer is valid for 16 rolls, in others more, but it is not clear. Stopbath I understand that it should change color, but is it too obvious?. I have been carrying around 10 develop rolls since I made the mix in December 2019. I am concerned that they will expire or go over the develop rolls limit. I still have leftover chemicals without mixing, which as I said, have been open in December 2019, do they have an expiration date?. 2. Color development: I have not started yet, I have the tetenal c41 pack but I still do not mix the chemicals because like the previous one, I am not clear on the duration of the chemicals once they are mixed, and for how many rolls they works well. Since this development is more expensive, I don't want to spoil it. Basically I would like to know that, duration times and number of developments. 3. Storage:, is it really that important to store chemicals in oxygen-free bottles? I use old 1l amber oil glass bottles. The b&w chemicals as I said, I made mixtures of 500ml, so there are more than 500ml left with air, is this bad?. 4. Scanner. I scan the negatives with a mirrorless camera, with a DIY system with an LED ceiling plate, a plumbing tube, and a filter washer that screws onto the camera and in turn to the tube. Between the tube and the LED there are two glass strips with the film inside. I wonder how I should expose the digital camera for these cases, I mean if the exposure should be +/- 0 or it should be under / over-expose. Sorry for such a long questionnaire, I would appreciate a long your help

Hi Orsetto. Yes, you are in the right place. I put lubricant on parts 1 and 2. Actually I removed part 4 to clean it. Also the spring in an arched shape. This, reveals a black piece (if I remember well), in the hole where you have marked the number 1. I simply put the tip of a toothpick with a small drop of lub on the edge of the black piece, and another drop in the base of part number 2. And let the lubricant descend by moving a few times. In part 3 I didn't touch anything, in my case it moved correctly. It was clear that my problem was underneath. I think this can leave more lubricant residue than desired, that's why you have to put very very little quantity of lub, but enough to make it work. That, or open on the other side by removing the chrome end plate, which as I said, I can not. Hope it helps guys. Happy I can help a little bit in the forum. Not big experience, I just got my first Hasselblad a few months ago. But disassemble and repair these machines, are as satisfactory as shoot with them

surprisingly the new magazine seems perfect, I was wrong. I have used a worn 120 roll, I have put paper inside simulating as if it were the film, and in each frame shot I painted the upper and lower line of the frame through the magazine window. When taking out the roll, I have seen the marks and they are all good. 5.5cm approximately for each frame. 0.5cm of space between frames. Only between frame 1 and 2 there is a little bit more, 2mm extra. The rest looks pretty consistent. I will test this method on my first sick magazine to check what pattern it follows. By the way, I broke the spring tip (number 57 page 12) of the tension wheel (n58 pag12). It snapped along the tiny hole at the end. Do anyone know if it is possible to find these pieces?

Ok, I will explain it taking into account the pdf manual that is on the internet because with photos it would be difficult. Based on pages 21 and 23 of the manual. https://galerie-photo.com/manuels/hasselblad-magasins.pdf My magazine is the one on page 21, but I'll name some pieces on page 23 because they don't appear on page 21. What I did at first was try to remove the "end plate chrome" (number 23, page 21). Removing the leatherette, there are 4 screws to remove. In my case it was impossible because they were very hard and I did not want to insist. In my opinion, this was the best way to go, but since I couldn't, I tried something else. Removing the cover (number 4, page 21), you hardly see anything inside so don't try anything there, only if you want to clean. Then remove parts 1 and 2, (they come out together) to access the interior. Then remove the pressure plate (n37 page 23). Be careful not to lose two small washers in the bottom screws (n24 pag21). There are 4 screws, and when removed, you can remove the entire plate and the plate spring (n38 pag23). I think that in most magazines, it would be enough to simply remove pieces 37 and 38, without having to remove pieces 1 and 2. But I am not sure this is the case in all versions. In my case, it was, since after reassemble, I had to disassemble again and this time only remove parts 37 and 38. That said, this gives access to the inside of the insert. You can remove parts 47 and 45 (page 23) without problem, but it is not necessary, I only did it to clean and make sure this was not what was causing the issue. There is a spring (36 page 21) that must be removed only from the size of 47 peace, and it will hang from the bracket (38 page 21), it can be mounted back without problem. What solved my problem was not cleaning those parts because after removing them, the key was still tight. So I went to the easy solution: In the central part of the large piece (28 page 21) called "Intermed. Part + End plate", there are two pieces that come out from the bottom. If you turn the insert opening key, you will see the two pieces moving. I simply put a drop of lubricant on each of them. It is best to use a toothpick or syringe to put very little lubricant. I simply moved the key several times, at first I noticed that it was very slightly improvement. I Leave the insert in vertical position for a while so that the lubricant descended, and after 30min, it was smooth as silk. I hope its fine explanation guys, sorry for my english. Its not difficult at all, sounds maybe more difficult of what it is. I tend to be somewhat clumsy with these things, but it seems easy to disassemble and reassemble hasselblad magazines. If it was easy for me, it will be for you

Let me take some pictures to explain it properly. I will write it tonight

What a lucky guy I am (irony) two sick backs... Well, I do not believe the problem is in the camera body, this seems perfect as you described it should be. By the way my problem is not wide spacing, it's overlapping. When I advance the knob, from frame one to two, friction, tension, or whatever you want to call it almost to the end. Perhaps 3 mm before reaching the end of the knob's travel, there is a distension that corresponds to the fact that the two superimposed wheels of the back disengage. As I say, the spacing between those two frames seems correct (I guess the correct spacing between frames is 1cm ??). but after the second frame, the backr wheels disengage earlier than normal. I would say 1cm before to the end of the travel of the knob, maybe. I think it is exactly the same distance in both backs, more or less, weird thing

Hi guys. I received a few days ago a film magazine with the exact same issue. I was researching in internet for tips to repair it and I found this post. I finally repair mine and it's incredible smooth now. I know the post is old but if you guys still having the issue just tell me and I will share how to do it. It's very easy

Hi guys. I'm back here. I did not finally repair the old Magazine 12, still don't knowing where is the issue, so I bought in eBay last week another film back, this time newer version, the A12 II. Its was in pretty good condition but, voilà, the issue there. Which makes me think of maybe the issue could be in the body of the camera and not in the back itself?

Thank you Andy, No I did not tried. I think this mechanism have other funtions too.. So if you say the notches in the few teeth are normal, then I dont really know why and where is the problem with my back, very weird

Thank you Andyfalsetta once again. Yeah the chrome gear number 1 is the one I was concerning at the beginning following a few tutorials. I cleaned and grease again. Works perfectly (at least for me), and mount it properly in place. But I noticed in your reply I didn't explain well about the other wheel, the counter one. I know this missing teeth are there to stop turning after frame 12. But I'm not speaking about the teeth in the border of the gear, I'm speaking about the big internal teeth. Check again please the picture called "gear", there are 13 visible teeth. And as you can see after the third frame, the teeth is incomplete, I where I started to have issues during a few frames. So that's why I'm thinking my problem is with this gear