m_allegretta

It’s good news to expect new fresh Gold 200 120 film availability, and I will buy some.

Seems like it’s the best mirrorless thus far, incorporating many improvements over the M10. I feel sorry for M10 owners, who may feel the strong urge to upgrade. I think M11 paired with the f/2 35mm APO can be an unbeatable kit.

In 2017, one repair cost me $152 to fix Nikkor 105/1.8 AiS stiff focus. No new parts, just CLA, at independent NYC shop.

I would not attempt an amateur effort to fix a Rolleiflex, even if you had a service manual. I'm not sure which model Rolleiflex you have, but ask Oceanside Camera Repair, Manhattan Beach, California (AKA Harry Fleenor) if they service your model. Oceanside repaired my 2.8C.

Thanks for discussing the FL interpretation further. I agree the FL is 1000mm and is unchanging when switching formats, In this scenario, the D700 body is simply cropping. Below are two images made with the setup Hasselblad 500/8 CF + 2X Mutar on D700; both made at ISO 400. These JPEGs are generated from unprocessed NEFs. Bird was positioned at about 6m. Moon focus was checked with "Live View". I think the images are good and reasonably sharp.

Thank you for your valued perspectives. The D700 sensing the center portion of the 6x6 image would give the 'impression' of a longer FL than 1000mm pictured lens setup. The estimated "apparent" 1600mm FOV generated by the D700 is reasonable. I don't have a 1600mm f/16 telephoto lens for 35mm film camera. Leveraging the good quality Hasselblad V optics I have on hand is a viable option for the few times I may need that reach by using the FX DSLR. Admittedly, I can crop the 6x6 scanned film image to get the same, but the D700 image is available faster and cheaper.

How does one calculate the 'apparent' focal length of a 1000mm Hasselblad optic when adapted to a 35mm Full Frame Camera?

Purchased used Leica M2 button rewind (BGN) - most obtainable Leica to me. Most importantly, I listened to 1s, 2s shutter speed accuracy, clarity of 35-50-90 framelines and focus patch, film advance smoothness and shutter curtain condition. The body had slight dents, leather was intact although not original; overall acceptable cosmetically and complete. Can't be mint obsessed when buying BGN. With functional criteria being met, the pictures with 2/35 ASPH were predictably outstanding. RF alignment is something that could only be checked out with 2.8/90 Elmarit-M. With sharp pictures at 2.8, I was lucky there. Solid, small, and agile camera, the M2.

The 18mm f/3.5 is one of my favorites. It makes the lowest edge distortion I have ever seen. It uses standard front filters, offering plenty of imaging options. The next wider lens is the 15mm, but it's big, flares more, not as sharp, and offers limited filtering options, in comparison.

Tilt-shift lenses (for 35mm cameras) will help you obtain tremendous Depth Of Field without closing down the lens aperture too much, avoiding image degradation from diffraction. This effect is based on the Sheimpflug principle, which view camera users easily exploit.

To clean the lens, use compressed air, then soft brush, then microfiber cleaning cloth moistened with lens cleaner. Rear lens scratches are worse than equivalent front lens defects. Any rear lens defect will be clearly visible when shooting towards the light at small apertures. Point a bright flashlight in the lens and observe resulting image formed on a white piece of paper. If dark fuzzy spots or lines are seen, the lens is degraded.

You are going to love the 40mm FLE. You know how to use the FLE adjustment, right?

This alternative works and allows bayonet hood to mount.

I owned and used the Mamiya 7 and Hasselbad 500C/M. The Mamiya 7 is the most agile for street, if used with 65mm, but the least creative of the two. Hasselblad will work for street, but I suggest Zeiss 65mm instead of 80mm. Hasselblad offers most flexibility and precision with close-up, telephoto and very wide angle. I sold the Mamiya 7. I now wish I had both.

1994 prices: New M6 Body $1850, New 35/2 Lens $980.