lyle_bell

<p>Just thought I'd pop back on here and say that, fixer was indeed the problem. I refix-ed the whole batch with fresh fixer and it was A-OK.<br> I don't know why I was using 1:9 fixer dilution.. every other time I had mixed it to 1:4. weird..<br /><br /><br /><br> This roll was a test of a Minolta X700 I was given. So, while not the best pics, it served it's purpose I guess.<br> Thanks again for info guys, this site is great for this kind of thiing..<br> <img src="http://i57.tinypic.com/2wda4aa.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Excellent!! Thanks guys!!<br> Come to think of it, the last reel was the worst and I had gotten distracted during the fix.<br> good advice all around. I had definitely pushed the fixer to the limit with at least 20 rolls although I did test it a while back and it cleared in 2 min or so.</p> <p>So these negs are dry now hanging in the shower stall.. can I reload and refix? is that possible?</p>

<p>I've been successfully stand developing both HP5+ and Tri-X in Rodinal (Blazinol) for the past year. Usually with great results but as of late I'm getting an increasing amount of both sprocket hole streaking (bromide drag?) and yellow base fog on HP5+ and especially on the Tri-X.<br> my process is:<br> HP5 & TriX shot at 1600.<br />Pre-soak for 5 minutes or so, water 20 degrees C, 2 roll Paterson tank.<br> Stand Dev one hour with 12ml Rodinal in 600ml. Relatively new Developer (bought this year). 20 degrees C. Agitate for initial 30 seconds. then agitate 20 seconds at 30 min mark.<br /><br />Rinse with water (instead of stop)<br /><br />Fix for 5-7 minutes (Ilford Rapid Fixer 1:9) with agitation every minute for 10 seconds or so..</p> <p>The negs usually come out as I like. Dense and pretty gritty. Lately though I'm getting these streaks and yellow base fog. The rolls developed the same way two hours earlier show no sign of this..<br> Thought I'd see if anyone knows what's going on here..<br> <img src="http://i62.tinypic.com/maictf.jpg" alt="" /><br> <img src="http://i61.tinypic.com/2zdulfs.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p> </p>

<p>haha.. just read all of Lex's first post.. which sums it up nicely.<br> on Flickr, the orig pic was shot on HP5+.. so I'd guess it was pushed to 1600. I get a similar look with HP5 and Blazinol (Rodinal), often with a bit of sharpening in Lightroom which will accentuate the grain</p>

<p>That looks a lot like the giant slabs of grain in Delta 3200 (esp when shot at 3200, so pushed in effect). Developed in DD-X.<br> <img src="http://www.shoutoutoutoutout.com/wp-content/gallery/summer-2012/pics-66.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="675" /></p>

<p>Sort of wish I had seen this thread before buying a bunch of colour Lomo 120. They still have piss-poor QC and the paper leeches onto the film far worse than the B&W...<br> guh... lesson learned..<br> <img src="http://i61.tinypic.com/2vtumug.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p> </p>

<p>I've been doing stand dev with Blazinol (Canadian Rodinal) and while I've had good results thus far, I have some questions.. </p> <p>firstly, I've been using 3.5ml per roll of 135, 1:100 dilution, 1 hour duration, agitate at the start for 30sec. NOw, i want to develop some small strips from a pinhole camera I made. about the equivalent of maybe 12 frames of 135. Should I reduce the amount of Blazinol proportionately? So perhaps 1.2 ml or so?<br> Likewise I've been rolling my own film so not every roll is 36 frames.. I've done some test rolls that were 15 frames, 12 frames, etc. Would make sense to me that it would require less developer.</p> <p>Secondly, as i understand it, Stand developing is so forgiving because it basically exhausts all the active developer over the course of the stand time. If so, how critical is the dilution and soup time? I've actually been putting 7ml in 500 so that it fits in the Paterson 4 tank. if you left it for longer than 1 hour, why would it matter if all the developer was exhausted?</p> <p>And, lastly.. I'm trying to wrap my head around this.. Stand dev seems to allow almost everything to be souped in about an hour. Different film stocks, different push/pull amounts, different speeds. (Seems to be a common claim but here is a specific post about it:<br> http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/<br> So that would seem to indicate that you could wildly underexpose and/or overexpose on the same roll and the film will magicly know what you want done. The stand process seems to be the same whether you push a film by 4 stops or pull by 2. That seems counter intuitive to me.. </p> <p>Anyway, this has all been amazingly fun thus far. I have been doing standard development with Xtol, D76 and DDX with no problems, I just wanted to wrap my head around what is happening inside the stand dev soup!</p>