ljwest

<blockquote> <p>Or is a non Circular polarizer ensentially the same as an ND filter</p> </blockquote> <p>No, they are not, though any polarizer will cut down the light hitting the sensor...</p> <p>"Circular" in reference to polarizing filters has nothing to do with the physical shape of the filter, but with the way the light that goes through it comes out. A circular polarizer, or a linear polarizer can be square or round, it's all in how it's made inside that determines whether it is a circular or linear polarizer.</p> <p>I won't try to explain it all,but here are a couple Wikipedia articles:</p> <p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarizer#Circular_polarizers">Polarization (subhead: circular polarizers)</a><br /> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_polarization">Circular Polarization</a></p>

<p>While we may think the AF/no AF decision should be made on the basis of the light in the scene, it is really a decision made by the camera based on information it gets from the lens or lens/extender combination. Since the filter does not communicate to the camera, the camera doesn't see a change, and continues AF.</p>

<p>Bob - I've tried LV @ 10x, and it's still not good. </p> <p>Thanks for all the replies. Hoping to take it in next week!</p>

<p>Sometime soon, I need to take my 100-400L (1998 vintage) in to Canon's NJ service center. I was wondering if anyone might be able to assist me in describing the issue such that the technician will understand and be able to make the appropriate adjustments/repairs.</p> <p>I use the 100-400 with a 7D. For photos taken that don't require infinity focus, focus is usually just fine. I can get good, sharp images.</p> <p>The problem occurs when I am shooting objects (birds, usually) at a distance, and the lens is in infinity focus or very nearly so. There, the images are considerably less sharp. The issue is not motion of the subject, as stationary, permanent objects (a perch, for example) will exhibit the same level of non-sharpness.</p> <p>It's like the lens can almost get to infinity focus, but not quite.</p> <p>I've tried MFA many times, all up and down the range, and while there is some improvement to be had, it never gets acceptably sharp. And sometimes that adjustment screws up focus at shorter distances. I've tried manual focus, and though it looks fine in the VF, the image never looks that good (but that probably says more about my 54-year-old eyes than the lens...). I've also tried live view (with tripod or other support), and that doesn't help, either</p> <p>As far as I can tell, this happens regardless of the zoom. I notice it mostly at 400mm, of course, but then this lens rarely sees less than 400mm, and when it does, the subjects are close enough not to need infinity focus!</p> <p>I'm not looking for a diagnosis, but I just want to be sure the tech understands the issue, and doesn't just point it at a test chart 15 feet away, gets a good/great image, and declares it fixed. If need be, I'm happy to leave the camera with them as well.</p> <p>Any suggestions are appreciated!</p>

<p>Often, there are helper apps or Daemons that run constantly to make our lives a bit easier. They do things like recognize when you have connected a camera to USB, or inserted a memory card, and they they tell your photo app (or media player, etc.) to launch so that you can start editing your new images.</p> <p>Other functions, like updater apps, indexing apps, etc. could also be present. As Jos says, Google the name of the process if you are concerned.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Why would you invest in a full-frame, high resolution sensor and then shoot in crop mode? Instead, get the fasteest card that you can buy, or trade it for the excellent 7D MkII.</p> </blockquote> <p><br />+1!</p>

<p>FWIW, I had exactly the same problem with a 100-400L a couple years back. It had gotten bad enough that I had to resort to a different lens. A trip to Canon's NJ repair center fixed it right up.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Specific models? I really like the Hoodman Steel USB 3.0 for SD and CF media.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> +1</p>

<p>My 7D has counted from 0001 to 9999 nearly 8 times, and I've not had a problem. Like others say, use Lightroom (I use Aperture) to rename all the files as you import them.</p> <p>For me, I use location and date in the file name, with a sequential number, e.g. Yellowstone_2015_06_11_0001.jpeg. If I were to go back tomorrow, it would start off: Yellowstone_2015_06_12_0001.jpeg.</p> <p>You would need to figure out what works best for you.</p>

<blockquote> <p>What subjects do you like to shoot?</p> </blockquote> <p>^^^ This ^^^</p> <p>There is no one (or several...) "right" lens for everyone. You need to know what it is you like to shoot (using what you have), and/or what you want to start shooting (that you can't with the current equipment) before you should step on the path to buying your next lens.</p> <p>Five years ago, when I started with my first DSLR (A Canon EOS 7D), I knew immediately what I wanted to shoot that I could not with the EF-S 18-135mm kit lens. Wildlife, particularly birds. For that type of photography, one would ideally want one of the "great white" L primes of 400-800mm focal length. But, not having $10,000-$12,000 lying around doing nothing, I opted for a few other lenses in the interim.</p> <p>First was a Tamron 70-300 SP. Good lens, great price (under $500), but 300mm is still too short. Next was my Canon 100-400L (first version), which I still use. The extra 100mm focal length makes a big difference, and it works well (in manual or live view focus) with my Canon 1.4x III extender. I still want a "great white", but it'll have to wait a while...</p> <p>I also effectively replaced my EF-S 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 (variable aperture) with an EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 (constant aperture) for wider angle shots, family, etc. An excellent lens, often considered to be on par with Canon's L lenses in quality. It worked very well for me in museums on a trip to Europe some years back.</p> <p>As for the 50mm... I jumped on the Nifty Fifty bandwagon early on. I actually bought the f/1.8 version before I bought my 7D, when I had the use of a 30D for a while. It's a great little lens that gives almost nothing away as far as picture quality to its much more expensive f/1.4 & f/1.2 cousins. And the ability to open it up to f/1.8 and get a very shallow depth of field can be very useful in certain situations. But, I feel it really is a "niche" lens for a budding photographer. It is almost ideally suited for portraits, especially on a crop, where it gives you the angle of view of an 80mm lens on full frame. But in most other cases, what was the "go to" or "all around" focal length for full frame 35mm film is too long a focal length for crop.</p> <p>If portraits are what you want to shoot, or will be shooting regularly, then definitely get one (probably the new 50mm STM, though). Otherwise, wait till you know it's what you need. I have one, but it's been a couple years since it's been on my camera...</p>

<p>I was nearsighted for years, wearing glasses with a rather mild prescription. It's still rather mild, but at 53, the other end of the scale has started to become affected. About 9 years ago, I got a prescription for bifocals (the normal kind).</p> <p>When I decided to become a more active photographer, about 5 years ago, I decided that for most outings, I'd wear contact lenses. My eye doctor and I eventually settled on a daily wear type. they really help me with the distant vision. I have a very hard time using glasses to look through a viewfinder.</p> <p>But, that doesn't solve the other side, where I now need reading glasses when wearing my contacts! But I find that the combination of readers and contacts works for me.</p>

<p>A pilot flying in formation with another plane should be looking at the lead plane. That is the only way they can properly maintain spacing and speed. Now, if you could manage to have the camera plane fly off of the subject plane, then the people in the subject plane should be looking in the direction they are going.<br> <br />The Blue Angels, Thunderbirds, etc. all use this technique. You don't maintain 3 foot spacing in the diamond by not looking at your lead. (this is not without its perils, as if the lead has a problem, everyone follows, as happened with the Thunderbirds Diamond formation flying T-38s during practice many years ago...)</p> <p>If your market is to pilots, or other aviation people, I doubt anyone would have issue with the pilots looking at the camera.</p>

<blockquote> <p>With the 7D MkII the illuminated AF points change.</p> </blockquote> <p>As they do on my "Classic" 7D...</p> <p>But you have to select either Zone AF (if the camera has it) or Auto-Select for all focus points, not Single-Point AF, Spot AF, or AF Point Expansion, which will only illuminate that spot (or spots) that you manually select.</p> <p>To the OP: Which camera do you have?</p>

<p>If the white part to the right of the "7." is a wall, it appears to be overexposed, or "blown out", possibly by a flash firing for the photo. If that is the case, there's probably very little chance to recover the rest of the date information.</p> <p>The date printers work by exposing the corner of the image with the numeric LEDs as the light source. All they can do is add exposure to the image. Since the wall is white, and very overexposed, the negative is saturated (all black in that region), and the rest of the date is simply lost in the blown out wall.</p> <p>I suppose there's still a very small chance of recovering the date if you have the negative, but you probably wouldn't be asking here if you had the negative!</p>

<blockquote> <p>Are each of the firmware updates designed to deal with one, or a selected subset of issues, or do they cover all changes or improvements?</p> </blockquote> <p>Each firmware update repairs certain "phenomena" (in Canon-speak). That said, each firmware update is a complete package, and completely replaces the firmware in your camera. So, if a camera started with 1.0.1 at first sale, had several iterations of the firmware, and the current is 1.2.3, then 1.2.3 includes all previous firmware changes, as well as the changes from 1.2.2-1.2.3.</p> <p><a href="http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii?pageKeyCode=43">Product Advisories 5DIII</a></p> <p> </p>