lilly_w

<p>How beautiful, the <em>regal</em> flicker! Nice work with the 400 - were you in a blind? I ask as they seem to be quite skittish.</p>

<p>If used as a secondary tripod and only for backpacking, I suggest a lighter set of legs, and only three sections/leg. Four-section legs add an additional weak link (more prone to vibration), are heavier and require more time (set-up/collapse). Do you really need 17 lb capacity on the these conservatively rated tripods? Review your potential load combination (ballhead, camera/grip, big lens, flash, other accessories, etc.) and I think you'll find that 11 lb capacity will serve well. Be sure to add another few inches (for a ballhead) when accounting for height.<br> I have a Gitzo GT-0530 Mountaineer 6X CF pod that has traveled many miles off-trail. Very happy w/ it and not carrying the extra .5 - .9 lbs. I have other Gitzos and all have performed well over the years.</p>

<p>I highly doubt this is fungus. The very consistent end evenly distributed dot pattern seems indicative of bubbles developing in the cement between two elements in a group. Send to Canon for removal/replacement of that group.</p>

<p>Intrinsic to minimalism is compromise. An inexpensive and probable superior portrait alternative is the Nikon 105/2.5 AIS.</p>

<p>I don't have an 810 to test this but on other bodies, pressing/releasing the DOF or Function button on the front of the body while an image appears causes the display timer to reset. I believe pressing the center of the Multi Selector may do the same. Success?</p>

<p>Most likely a simple do-it-yourself removal/replacement of the foam on the filmdoor adjacent to the hinge will rectify the problem. Improbable but worth mentioning; be sure the door isn't bent.</p>

<p>'Which of these two camera brands / camera models would you bring into a war zone... ??' <a href="http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/f2/variants/f2titan/">Nikon F2 T</a>: '...the ultimate choice for those who demand a camera that would provide them a level of dependability even being assigned to hell.' - Leonard Foo at MIR.com<br /> <br /> I also like/shoot the FM3a as a compact alternative.</p>

<p>My 80-200/2.8 AFS was serviced five months ago. Two shops that I spoke with, one of which did the service, had no concerns about providing replacement parts.</p>

<p>With your experience I think you'd have a strong sense for the 'need' (vs. 'want') of 2.8 so I'd imagine 4 has served you well. I have 2.8 and 4 zooms and <em>much</em> prefer the latter for travel re: size/weight. If I noticed a pronounced IQ degradation, then I wouldn't have purchased the 4's in the first place. </p>

<p>You're correct about minutes-long auto exposures with a battery in the 3a. I can't recall just how long. A nice feature.<br> I wouldn't question one camera's reliability - shutter or otherwise - more than the other, with one caveat - recent service. Whatever FM2n I might buy from an unknown source with an unknown history, I'd have it serviced immediately and then take it for much field-testing before going <em>remote</em>. If a 3a looked real good and performed flawlessly through several rolls, I'd skip the service.<br> But which body? The newer of the two. I'd take advantage of advances and sophistication afforded by the 3a, incl Exposure Lock. If shooting much chrome, definitely the 3a as exposure adjustments are easier to discern on the needle meter vs LED meter of the 2n. Fill flash and flash comp are also easier on the 3a.<br> Use 3v lithium cells, esp for frigid temps. No reason to ever run out of juice.<br> Been shooting and beating many of these bodies for years (2 FM, 3 2n and 3 3a) - happy to have any for rough 'n tumble ventures.<br> PS - If you're on a career-dependent assignment and it goes south, the let-down will be more than personal. 'Career-dependent' connotes mandatory success, back-up, etc.</p>

<p>We're at the point in the FM3a life cycle where more used cameras are up for sale - cameras that would be of no interest to collectors. Be patient - one has your name on it out there at the right price. I shoot all these FEx and FMx cameras. I often prefer the 3a for several reasons. Great camera.</p> <p>'Is it worth it' is relative. We usually see this remark in the context of features - camera X has blah while camera Y has blah x2. Trumping all is reliability. In the heat of the moment I'd rather have a reliable, modern camera than a $150 paperweight.</p>