Cloudscientist

Hello, What can make my prints more brilliant and add clarity to them? I'm looking for techniques that would add extra white, but also ways of darkening the black tones. So adding overall contrast. This in post production, after the print has been developed. The reason for this is that although I get reasonably good prints, they all still look a bit too greyish. I think a way to do so is to use bleacher. But please come up with other, better ideas.

Hi, Would it be a good idea to underexpose with exposure compensations for let’s say 2 stops ? I am using a canon A1 film camera. What I’m trying to avoid is a film that is too contrasty because of the heavy light. Please feel free to advice me on the settings to use. thank you.

Hi all Imagine a pretty dark background with a pretty white subject on the foreground. For example an animal. My aim during development of photo, is to generate very dark spots now only on the subject which is already light. But these spots should have the character of being grainy. So not by adding a liquid on that moment, because liquid is not grainy and rough and could even create small drops which i don't like. It should make a grainy inversion of white to black. So i thought it should be a chemical in powder , not liquid..? Any ideas welcome. Thank you.

Thx a lot Rodeo_Joe. I will take some time to fully grasp the info you provided. But I will come back on it. I'm reading " The Zone System Craftbook" by John Charles Woods. Hope things will clarify. I 'm new to the zone system.

Hi all, I'm reading "the negative" from Ansel Adams. On page 90 , where characteristic curves are compared, he talks about the SEPARATION of values. "Most films today have very long straight-line regions, but if a shoulder is present, you should observe at what zone the separation of values begins to diminish." A. Adams What does he mean by that? Thank you

Thx for your input Conrad...I will read Post Exposure by Ctein. What was important to you ..

Hi Joel, thx for your reaction. I have a digital basis what i sure can use. I want to focus basically on exposing the film right in the camera, developing the negatives and the the print. Thats my learning objective...

Hi Jochen, I know the 3 books of Ansel Adams. Have read the negative. Is pretty good. I will summarise this book, cause i forgot lots of it.

Hi Anamedina, For blurred photos you can look at the work of Michael ackerman.

How to learn film photography on your own? I'm struggling with this question a lot. I would like to learn how proper expose my film in the camera and then develop film and photo. All I need for this I have. A camera, darkroom, and film photography books. I find books about analog photography more interesting then what I can find on the internet. But i have more than 100 books on the subject of film photography. What would yu suggest is a good way to start Have already a little experience but i want to go to the bottom. Thx Lieven

Hi Moving on, Thanks a lot. I learned a lot from that movie. Hi Alan, Suddenly i remember have tried to open the camera by accident. I underestimated it because i only opened it maybe for 1 millimetre. Now i think i might have caused some fogging as you said... I will try develop one more film and come back with what i find.

Hi mjferron, What you mean by improper fixing? I did more then 60 seconds of fixing and little bit of agitation in beginning. Should i agitate more or less.. Or is the banding the result of even agitation. Too much in the same direction? Also tried to do the fixing again in hope of banding going away. But there was only a slight improvement. Maybe 20 percent improved...

hi, I developed my first film with Rodinal. The images on the film appeared, but with strange vertical banding. I read somewhere is possible because of no constant agitation of the Fixer? I used ilford Rapid Fixer. But agitated not constantly for 1 minute.. Here you can see the film. The vertical banding appear on each photo more or less.

I should use an ND filter by: Cyan= Magenta= Yellow Equal amounts of each filter.. is ND filter. Will try it later

hi all I did the test with the coin. I put a coin on the RC paper and turned off the light even de safelight for 90 seconds. The paper i developed was complete white. So this proves there's no extra light coming into the darkroom. It is now completely dark. But i did a nomal test (60 sec exposure with test strips)and with paper and developed it. 20,40 and 60 seconds bands. Why are the whites , after certain time getting black as well?? You can see the image is still very dark. The exposure must have been too strong. Also used the magenta filter on my Enlarger . Did put it to 100/of the max of 130.