User_10916288

Im also considering Mirror 500mm lens. Tokina. But I guess that better combo will be 80-200 f4 + tc 200 than Tokina 500mm F8 mirror?

Yes. Im very satisfied with 80-200 f4 manual focus lens. Im using it on my D7100. Only problem that I have is CA. But with today's photo software, it's not a big deal. Sharpness at f4, colors, contrast, build quality is great, and it cost around 100 dollars. My friend has Tamron 70-300 non VC version, and its very unusable above 200mm, and it must be stoped down to get a decent image. AF is painfuly slow, and he is using it in manual mode. So, when Im on budget, I would always take old Nikon manual lens, than new Tamron/Sigma at the same price level. Im also a fan of manual lenses, I have few Russian ones, and Im also considering Nikon prime 300mm f4.5. Anyway, You used that 80-200 f4 with Vivitar x2 converter? Do You manage to get decent sharpness with it, wide open? In that case, I would consider even Nikon TC-200 X2 for that lens. I would get 160-400mm f8, which can be very useful. There's another question in my mind, with today's sensors, does teleconverters have any sense? I mean, cheap ones like TC 200/201 or Kenko at the same price? Is it going to make any difference from simple crop in post processing?

Thank you guys for your replies. Im not sure if it has A designation, I will check it with seller. Anyway, Im aware of cons and pros of mirror lenses. I decided to take one, because its not a problem for me to tweak pictures in LR and PS, to gain a proper colors, and contrast. But in the terms of sharpness, I can see that there's a lot of lenses that are very soft? Samyang 500mm f8 is very affordable, but I saw that they are suffering from lack of sharpness. Those Russian ones, MTO, supposed to be very sharp, but that mount is a little mistery for me for now. I can also buy very cheap (around 65 dollars) Tokina 500mm F8. Can anyone tell me more about that lens? Can it produce decent images in the terms of sharpness? Handhold on daylight (i guess it needs at least 1/500)? I have a tripod, but Im not carrying all the time with me. I saw some reviews of that Tamron SP 500mm f8, it seems to be very good and sharp. I will also consider it. It's priced for about ~150-200 dollars. So, Tokina is ~3 times cheaper, but is it also 3 times worse than Tamron?

I have found one interesting piece of glass, Russian MTO 550 f8.5. Im very curious about that lens, because I have been searching decent mirror lens for a while. By the reviews, this one is very good in the terms of sharpnes and colors reproduction. Anyway, I have a question about lens mount. Are all those MTO 500/550 have M42/M39 mount? Or there's some models with F mount? T mount maybe? I have Nikon camera, so Im afraid if all of these were made with M42 mount, and if I use it with M42 adapter, I will lose infinity focus? Am I right? Is it possible to get normal focus with these lenses at Nikon cameras? Thank You in advance.

Tnx for Your replies guys. I have another question. Im planing to get one of Soligor/Tokina/Vivitar 400mm f6.3. Most of these lenses have T mount. I never used one with that kind of mount. I used M42 mount on my Nikon, and like many M42 lenses, I had problems with infinity focus. Is there the same thing with T mount? And I saw few different T mounts, T, T2, T4...

Yeah, Im just reading about that. Lot of image quality has been lost by using teleconverter. 80-200 f4 Ais is a great lens. Sharp at f4, but one stop higher, at f5.6 is sharp like knife. You are right, 80mm doesn't make big difference. Im considering that Nikon that You said. I have found one Nikon 300mm f4.5 Ais for ~160 euros. It's around 170 dollars. Not too expencive. I will try to manage to try it, I check it for dust/fungus. But Im quite sure that lens is a monster.

Or, I have on my mind Kenko TelePlus MC4 AF 1.4X DGX. I will get extra 80mm, but lose only one stop. Does it worth, that 80mm extra reach? I have found some good reviews about this one.

Hello. Im planing to pair Nikon 80-200 f4 Ais + Nikon TC-200 teleconverter, so I was wondering is this combination going to work? My biggest concern is that Im getting (if Im right) 160-400mm f8. That f8 is biggest concern for me. I guess that I will have to use it only in bright sunny day, so I can manage to get at least 1/400 for handhold shots. Right? And I have one silly question, because I have never used teleconverters before. Im familiar that x1.4 change aperature for one stop, and x2 changes it for 2 stops. So, if my lens aperature is at 4, and I put x2 converter, I will get f8. But, is lens going to performance good as stoped down to f8 without converter? Or it's going to performance as f4, but with less light (f8). Im little confused. Thank you.

<p>Quick update. I was shooting these past few days, in forest mostly, with 80-200. Had some cold/hot transitions. Cold outside, hot inside :) Anyway, I didn't noticed any changing of that mark under the element. It looks exactly the same as the first day I saw it. My friend has nail UV lamp, so I used it few times in lens. Just in case. Im keeping it on dry, and at normal temperature, around 20C. Will check it againt in few days, I ordered spanner tool for element removal, but I will wait to see if there's any changes. So, it may be oil and some dust specks on it?</p>

<p>It may be evaporate oil with dust stick to it? It looks like dust specks, but at higher concentration. It does not have any beginig like I saw on other lenses online. It's not visible at daylight, it seem clean. And it's not on the front side, I tried to clean that. I live in western Europe, so there should be no problems with humidity. Also tried to capture some shots at f22. Seen some dust on sensor, but image in not showing any of these marks that look like fungus to me. So, you guys are much more expirienced, and if you say that's not the fungus, I can't agree more with you :)<br> Just for the record, fungus like hot and wet regions? What about cold? It's pretty cold here, temperatures are barely above 0 celsius degrees. Does it fit for fungus or it kills them?</p>

<p>I paid around 100 euros for it, because they are rare in Europe. They are cheaper at ebay.com. I wanted that piece of glass in my bag, because of reputation of that lens, and good price. I never used manual focus push pull lenses, and I fell in love with this one after the first touch. I have few Helios lenses, they are very cheap here. 10 euros piece. I just love good old mechanic :) Anyway, I'm glad that that nasty spots doesn't look like fungus. It's not about money, it's about problem to find those lenses here. And they have to be in good condition too, after all those years. It harder for me, because I like it so much. That smooth zoom ring and easy push pull option are like heaven :) Ok, that sounds maybe wrong, I would not marriage that lens! :)<br> <br />I will order spanner tool for front element removal, to clean that up. It should arive in a month. Until then, I will try to point it to the sun, just to be sure, if that are fungus, that they are dead. Also, friend of mine has that UV lamp for nails. Can I use that? How long should it be under UV lamp? It has timer, 60 second is the longest, so I guess that I will have to press it very offten. Last, and most important question, can fungus in one lens contamine camera and other lenses?</p>

<p>Hello all. My name is Leo, and I'm amateur photographer. Anyway, I recently got beautiful Nikon 80-200 f4 lens. Seller said it's clean (as much as it can be for a lens that old), no scratches and no fungus. So, I checked pictures from all anges, and it seemed fine. Lens arived, I tried some shots, and I was amazed by quality of this lense, even on 24mpx camera. I checked it with, let's say, naked eye, it seemed that lens is perfectly clear. Than I took another look under flash light. I saw some dust (typical for age of that lens, right?) and then I noticed something like fungus inside of the lens on front element. So, can someone take a look, I tried to capture that thing the best that I can. Is it fungus?</p> <p>http://postimg.org/image/b0uoslnvn/<br> http://postimg.org/image/ntissizhf/</p>