laurent_thomas

<p>And here is the corresponding view with the top cover on.</p><div></div>

<p>I was able to identify the horizontal and vertical alignment setting screws, which are as illustrated on the attached picture. In my case, the horizontal setting did not require much rectification.<br> In addition, the rangefinder of the Fujica 35-ML is particularly bright, which is helpful for this kind of work.<br> I still have to check infinity in the coming days.</p> <div></div>

<p>Thanks Brett for the useful advice. I've already checked lens focus at 1.5m using tripod, textbook and a magnifying glass. As I said, I'll check lens focus to infinity, but this season the days get shorter and I'll only be able to do this while I'm home with daylight.<br> Note the circled silver cross-head screw, it is located below the accessory shoe and rests on the rangefinder mirror mechanism. My first guess is that the adjustment involves this one screw, the brass plate would be second choice for now.</p>

<p>Here is a view of the holes below the accessory shoe.</p><div></div>

<p>Before going under the top cover of the Fujica 35-ML, I looked below the accessory shoe as suggested by Stephen. There is no flash contact here so no risk to ruin any electrical wiring. And finally here they are! Two holes that give access to screws inside the viewfinder. I decided to take the cover off anyway since I had no clue about which screw set the horizontal alignment.<br> So the good news is: one screw is attached to the range finder mirror, this is probably the horizontal alignment setting. This is the big silver X screw on the attached picture. The other screw goes further below the viewfinder block. I suspect this one is for setting the parallax correction - I'll leave it alone for now.<br> Bad news is there is a mirror that is loose due to the aging glue. I'll have to fix this. But more concerning is that I sense friction when I turn the focus knob, and that didn't happen befire I removed the cover. I'll look into this in the same time.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi!<br> It has at least the looks of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minolta_AL-F">Minolta AL-F</a> or similar camera.</p>

<p>Documentation on the Fujica 35-ML is really sparse, and it seems only japanese websites have links to some repair documentation. The following web page has a lot of resource that can be of use: http://fukucame.fan.coocan.jp/restorelink.htm One of them has a low quality picture of the camera with the top cover off (see attached). The adjustment mechanism may be visible but it is not clear to me. Since I've found more ressource on the topic, I'm more comfortable with getting the top off the camera for deeper inspection.<br> The lens seems properly collimated. I have been able to check this by measuring the distance from focal plane to a an object and then read the text on this object using a magnifier. I'll test focus to infinity the same way when I'm home with daylight.<br> The misalignment is only horizontal. Focusing at an object ~4m, the distance scale reads ~10m. At infinity, alignment cannot be reached. Vertical alignment is perfect.</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you John for your answer.<br> What is sure is that the rangefinder images do not coincide on near-infinite objects. I'll also check the infinity focus directly on the film plane like you adviced.<br> I have not discovered any hidden access yet, no snappy plate on the hot shoe like on the Canonets nor any visible screw cap.<br> I still have to look for anything inside the film chamber.<br> I'll get back with any result once this is done.<br> Have a nice day.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi!</p> <p>I'm looking for hints on how to adjust the rangefinder on a beautiful Fujica 35-ML.<br> I usually would not have bothered, but the one I got has the f/2 Fujinon lens I would like to try.</p> <p>I've found the following pages (in japanese), but nothing specific about adjustment.<br> http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~rd2h-ari/35ML_BUNKAI.htm<br> https://web.archive.org/web/20090131125902/http://sendai.cool.ne.jp/ayanoshippo/restoa_14.html</p> <p>Thanks in advance and have a nice day!</p>

<p>Clearly someone already took the camera apart. I suspect they did wash some rings with water, and by doing so caused the oxydation.</p>

<p>I'm back with finally a solution.<br> For the record, dismantling an Icarex 35 CS should not be so difficult, it happens my camera had some oxydation preventing me from unscrewing some of the retainer rings.<br> Anyway, for the record, here are the steps from the start:<br> 1 - Remove the thin cirle of leatherette on top of the advance lever<br> 2 - Unscrew the two-pinholes nut - it is retaining the covering for the film type indicator.<strong> Unscrew by turning CLOCKWISE.</strong><br> 3 - under the film indicator covering, there is a C-shaped - this was sticking due to the rusty parts underneath on my camera. Same as previously : <strong>unscrew by turning clockwise.</strong> You'll need either a special tool or very great care to do this due to the unusual shape (see picture).<br> 4 - 3 additional normal screws are retaining the remaining parts. Once removed, the advance lever and plates just lift up.<strong><br /></strong><br> 5 - Finally, 2 normal screws ensure the speed selection dial stays in place. Just remove them, take note of the speed selection position, and remove.<br> 6 - You can remove the top cover.</p> <p>Also, SURPRISE! Once the top cover of my camera totally removed, I found out that... the whole frame-counter mechanism was missing ! Too bad, but that won't keep me from using it :)<br> <strong> </strong></p><div></div>

<p>I'm currently discussing by mail with the author of <a href="http://jubil.eu/galerie.php?nom_salle=Tech-Icarex&nom_parent=2jet-Technique">this photo gallery</a>. The interesting part is not documented, but we are both trying to find out what's missing.</p>

Hi Chuck and thank you for your time. Here is a page with a disassembled view: http://www.photographic.co.nz/cameraworks/cameras/icarex35s/ Not much help there but a proof that it is feasible. I'll try to email the page owner. I'll read the details about the evolution of the Icarex design. I've searched for the same details for SL706 and VSL1 SLRs with no luck, but there is probably more types to lookup.

<p>Hi all,<br> After some long time lurking in the photo.net boards, I finally registered with a question to ask. :)<br> <br />I've acquired som time ago a Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35S, with the removable pentaprism. I'm trying to get the top cover off, and after a long time spent studying the thing... i can't!<br> I've come as far as to remove the rewind knob and film speed dial. Then I unscrewed the top of the advance lever (<a href="http://cameracollector.proboards.com/post/36223/thread">clockwise</a>). It gets me to the film type selector but no further (see picture - when I'll find out how to upload it).<br> I'm unable to figure out how to dismantle the advance lever and the speed selection dial. They need to be removed in order to lift the top cover. Has anyone some idea about this?<br> Thanks in advance for your help!</p> <div></div>