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larry_luckham

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  1. With added details (C-41) I have to agree. And, that's one of the reasons that virtually all professional photographers are now working only in digital. I think that where film and chemical processing comes in is in B&W simply because it is difficult to impossible to get the same quality in digital printing to match good quality, high silver, fiber prints.
  2. Given the scarcity of reliable film processing these days you might be surprised at how quickly one could earn back. I know people still very committed to transparencies. I gave that up some time ago and in recent years stuck with B&W shooting on film and then scanning and printing digitally.
  3. That's a bit surprising. There is not so much to go bad that can't either be replaced as a stock part, or reproduced by a 3D printer. Perhaps some parts of Europe are a bit different but I have family in the Czech Republic that could do that and a neighbor in California who has just 3D printed a replacement for a door part for his Mercedes Sprinter van.
  4. I have a Jobo ATL-1500 processor, Jobo temperature control panel with pre-filtration, numerous tanks, reels, and other stuff, including some chemistry that I am no longer able to use. I’m wondering if there is any market for this and if there is what is the reasonable value?
  5. I have a Mamiya 645 AFD that quit on me. The techs say that the body is not communicating with the lenses so the aperture can't be set. Everything else is in great shape. Rather than try for repair I'm selling the 80 mm and 105-210 mm lenses and 3 film backs (401) and will throw in the camera if someone takes it all. I'm told it's probably repairable but I don't want to fuss with the repair issue. Mamiya 645 AFD Filmbacks (401) - $275 each - all 3 for $750 Mamiya 645 autofocus 80mm f2.8 lens $350 Mamiya 645 autofocus ULD 105-210mm f 4.5 zoom lens $275 Both lenses for $525
  6. Serial # 500 EL/M Black Body wl Finder UIE25160 Lens - Planar T* Auto Aperture - 80mm f2.8 B10106 A12 Chrome Back w/ Insert RI3259009 Charger, batteries, battery adapter Electric shutter release 500 C/M Chrome Body wl Finder UT185733 Lens Planar T* - 80mm f2.8 6268616 A12 Chrome Back w/ Insert UR3132042 Lens Distagon T* - 50mm f4 5713515 Lens Sonnar T* - 150mm f4 6110307 Lens Sonnar T* - 250mm f5.6 6187536 Lens Tele-Tessar - 500mm f8 3494869 A-12 Back RT 3289818 A-12 Back RS 3180039 Kiev Non Meter 45 Prism 990417 Hasselblad Chimney Viewer NSN Hasselblad 100 Polaroid Back NSN Buy it all for $3,200
  7. Haven't gotten any feedback here so I thought I'd add to the original posting. With not much else to chose from I decided to do a little more exploring on my own. Managed to take the critical parts of the outer body off to get to the mechanism and electronics. So, the focus selector on the front of the camera body seems to have both a mechanical and an electrical function. When M focus is selected it withdraws the little screwdriver type device that engages the focus on the lens. However, although I can hear the focus motor run when the camera fires, the gears indicated by the red arrows don't turn.
  8. I have an ELM with this very unusual Hassy 80mm auto aperture lens that I was thinking about selling as I'm no longer using it. The lens takes power from the charging port on your ELM, or can be powered by a separate battery. I don't have a battery or connector to do that as I never needed one, but I would guess it would be pretty easy to make one. Both camera and lens are in working order and I have the charger as well as an adapter to allow the camera to be powered from standard 9 v batteries. The issue at the moment is that I have no idea what's a reasonable value for the lens, or on a more practical basis, what's a reasonable value for the ELM, back, this lens, and the accessories mentioned. Any ideas? I'll post a scan from the manual on the lens for those not familiar with it. Larry
  9. I have a Mamiya 645AFD that hasn’t been used in several years. Today I decided to put it to work again. Fresh batteries, etc. However, I immediately encountered a problem. The camera is stuck in manual focus even when the focus mode selector is set to S or C. At first I thought it might be the mounted lens so I switched lenses. Same thing. I investigated further. First, I checked the focus on a couple of lenses by using a small screwdriver to operate the focus receiver on the lenses. They all turn smoothly and move the focus ring. Next I examined the focus driver on the camera. It pops in and out just fine. Then I determined that the driver and receiver are engaging correctly by turning the focus ring on a lens mounted on the camera v. not mounted. Not mounted the focus ring turns freely, mounted there is drag. That proves engagement. Also, when depressing the shutter release you can hear the focus motor operate for a second or so. Is there anything else I might try short of sending it out for expensive repair? Ideas appreciated. Larry
  10. Linhof Technika V 4 X 5 field camera, serial # 2141700 In excellent conditions, bellows subtle and pliable, left hand anatomical grip (chip on the bottom). Three camera lenses on boards: Nikon 150mm f 5.6, Copal O shutter, serial # 800827 Super-Angulon 75mm, f 8, Copal O shutter, serial # 11 568 435 Symmar 210/370mm, f 5.6-12, Syncro-Comput shutter, serial # 11 003 847 22+ film holders, about half are Lisco Regal II, the rest Linhof and Polaroid 545 back A bunch of color & BW film, Jobo reels & misc. $2750 + shipping
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