laichungleung

NIKON NIKKOR 300MM AF-S 2.8 D II the lightest version as far as I know. It's apparently a used one, I wasn't aware of the stop screw even I am a long time F mount user so that's very very embarrassing. It kind of happened before but it was OK with the F mount D4s, perhaps the metal wasn't that soft or it wasn't much torque I used. In normal circumstances, I hold the lens and twist to mount and unmount but since the 300mm is kind of big so I twist the body and my brain couldn't quite adjust so it jammed when it was twisted in the opposite direction and w/out the stop screw to stop it from happening. I have "fixed" or experimented with fixing some Nikkor lenses but never curious enough to know what that little screw does. I paid $250 for this lesson It is a Z 9.

I should have said it's a FTZ II adapter

My F mount 300mm missed the stop screw so long story short, the 300mm destroyed the FTZ adapter aperture lever. since I don't have a spare one or find any picture online I ask if any member can share what a normal lever would look like? My other F mount cameras have the lever but they are spring loaded. The FTZ one is motor driven and I believe they aren't the same or how they are installed. Any close up of it with or dissembled from the adapter is greatly appreciated. In an attempt to fix it I might have straightened it too much so it doesn't actually work. With this aperture lever missing, all the AF-S would work somewhat but at the min aperture, f/22 or whatever the smallest and extreme HI ISO as a result.

I forgot why I asked in the first place. I think people just talk about fast duration to freeze action, it's true but only if you can shut down the ambient.

with modern cameras having excellent high ISO performance. Shooting without additional light is definitely possible or preferable. I did one time sub my works for some online school shooting platform. The critique was to show samples of indoor basketball using strobes. I have no doubt that on some NBA or pro levels there are lights mounted on the rafters high up to light the players ... At some point I was watching quite a bit of YT on flash duration, but most of them don't mention about ambient. I think no matter how fast your flash duration if you can't shut off the ambient or overpower the ambient, that you won't get crisp image. That's if you can get a black frame without flash then adding a flash with fast duration will definitely crisp the image. But if ambient leaks in, I don't think a fast duration matters at all.

I have a couple of Cell II-N for my Nikon camera and 120J strobe. It triggers fine except for the occasional misfires (fires without me press anything). Anyway, I don't need TTL as I am just using some Sunpak 120J or other generic flashes. My question is Would the Cells II-N as a transmitter attached to a Nikon camera, able to trigger a Cells II-C act as a receiver attached to any flash or strobes and be able to do Hypersync. With a pair of Cells II-N I have no issue doing hypersync at full flash power up to 1/8000s.

My experience is that. If you are using external power only without and AA batteries in the compartment, then no matter what settings you on, the flash will fire full blast. When you have the batteries in the compartment and attach the external power source then things work as expected, auto or fraction powers.

I have experience with battery growing fat over the years, it was the one with the macbook pro. initially i didn't know it was the battery, the trackpad just not responsive as it sat above the bulging battery. And slowly or surely it renders the trackpad useless and the bottom getting fatter and fatter. In the end I replaced with some 3rd party battery. And it's a success, sure the battery doesn't last quite as long but what do you expect anyway... For camera batteries, I haven't experience the budge, not yet. Hope never will.

my D700 is my backup now, sort of. So I will see. But it's good to know in the world of 3rd party batteries, not all of them are made bad, some are just better than others. I have just another off brand battery for my D810, which discharges mush faster but otherwise oK for all the years I use it, it came with the camera I bought used on eBay.

The Nikon battery is rated at 7.4V 1500 mAh, so the charger is designed for it. My question is would the charger able to charge up the 3rd party battery rated at 2200mAh? It just takes longer? Let's assume it's up to spec, I am curious to know how things are supposed to work. Thanks!

you said it. I doubt I can get a brand new good ENEL3E at this point. I never ever expected a 3rd party battery be any close to the original. But this is a bit too far off when brand "new," which could be anything but ... in the beginning it says 70% then stopped charging, now at 50% it stopped charging. I have no confidence in them whatsoever. One of my genuine nikon battery suddenly died, the order one even after years of usage still says 0 meaning brand new. Actually alll of my genuine nikon batteries say so. it's crazy. I can't quit my D700, it's biased probably even after I got my D4s, I think the D700 gives me better pictures, sharper with better clarity. The D4s shoots faster that's it.

I have a Nikon genuine MH-18a and an EN-EL3e battery that absolutely stopped charging. So I went ahead and bought 2 third party batteries. But the two new batteries stopped charging at some 70% or most recently 47%. I read that % from my D700 menu. The genuine EN-EL3e battery is listed at 1500mAh while the 3rd party ones at 2200mAh, both rated at 7.4V. I still have one functioning EN-EL3e with 2 functioning MH-18a, the genuine battery charges up in the charger no problem at all. So my question is would the increased battery mAh prevents it from charging up in the original charger? Or I suspect the batteries are just simply bad. Like really bad and the mAh have nothing to prevent it from charging up if only it's normal or up to spec. I have no knowledge of electricity. I know the higher mAh is a good thing because it stores more power and last longer in theory or when it's really up to spec. Thanks.

thanks. i bought a Model T2 which does work. The repair probably costs more than the purchase of the 2 units; pending repair quote from promarkbrands as qtm falls under the promarkbrands umbrella now.

I got this model unfortunately it does not flash. It powers up if I hook it up to my Godox pb960. All the buttons seem to work except the test flash button, or when I PC sync it with my camera. It even reports under exposure (of course) if I use auto as the flash never goes off. Do you know if it's an "easy" fix like opening it up? I am not handy at all. The bulb works even the casing felll off as I put it into my sunpak 120J and it works ... Does anyone know how to open this thing? Or any diagram online? Thanks.

thanks all. i shoot some sports, mainly bike racings. I tend to add flash to add some spark to the pictures otherwise I feel like the lighting is too flat, i.e. if action is close and I am shooting with a wide angle like 16-35. Mostly I shoot at a low shutter speed (1/30s) and small aperture (f/8 or smaller), if front curtain curtain sync, the ghosting appears in the front, if rear sync, the ghosting appears in the end of the action which is usually more natural and desirable. So that's rear curtain sync. My question is actually on flash duration on action shots during daylight. I have seen numerous youtube video extolling the merits of fast flash duration which I have no way of testing in all scenarios as I don't own any 200w/s strobes with fast flash duration so I can only imagine....I tend to agree and from my limited experience, if I were to shoot in broad daylight with some below 100w/s flash, there is no way I can use flash duration to stop any action, that's based on flash duration to produce crisp images, instead I always use slow shutter and small aperture to pop the action. If I were to freeze any action I shoot 1/1000 or faster sans flash to freeze the action. So I just don't quite get it when people say flash duration to freeze actions, yeah I mean if you can totally overcome the ambient then sure but if I were to shoot outdoor, a long flash duration plus hypersync, i.e. using the camera's 1/500 or faster shutter speed would freeze the action...But I really have no experience ever having a power strobe with fast duration shooting action in broad daylight.