krystiankupiec

Try to deactivate chromatic abberation correction on body.

I shoot MF because of 3 points: - magic of depth and 3D pop on wide apertures (phisical and optical consequences of large negative) - crisp edges, high definition on narrow apertures - less grain, better tonallity - any type of negative gives fine results

Thanks - i've seen it. Very helpful.

I've found solution - little primitive and risky, but it works well! I use penetreting fluid (WD-40). I have ridden anatomy of Seiko #0 shutter to realised where is a trigger section. I detached lens, take backplayte out and use a hole in shutter cover (with aperture roller - in uncocked position) to put the tube inside. Gently splashed two times (really, really gently) and left lens on side to let oil work on stuck parts. Result? After 30 mins. shutter works perfect and... aperture ring, which ran hardly now works smooth!

Volna-3 has few of issues. First of all - quality control, as [uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER] told. But it gives very different picture in comparsion with Biometar. Bokeh is smoother and swirl. Sharpness, contrast - everything depends of quality of lens you will get. I have Volna with P6 mount wich gives beautiful results. The images was vintage-type.

Hi guys! My first post isn't so lucky because I have a problem with my Bronica ETRS, I bought week ago. Outdoors, where's temperature about -2 deg. celcius the shutter is not going to fire without random delay. The mirror flips instantly, but the shutter needs sometimes half a second, sometimes 2-4 seconds, and sometimes doesn't run at all. I have done raplacement of old lube on lens shutter rollers, pins, crankplate, and even on some parts on body. Nothing better is happening. I have reading dozens of threads and got realized, that i have a little different version of body - with the one cooking pin only. I have no idea if it has any connection mith my issue. Mayby someone of you had similiar problem, and solved it. I hope:)