kmac

It may be finished, corrosion has a way of doing that.

Humphrey Bogart ?

Yes, I take photos of shutter parts as I disassemble them, so by studying the photos I can see which way things go back. Without posting a pic of my Minolta 7S, I can say the aperture opening at f16 is very small, as is the one in the OP, but for a 40mm lens, the f16 opening will be slightly smaller than that of the 45mm 7S lens, but not by much. For some of my larger cameras, I could easily stick a pencil through the f16 aperture opening. Longer focal lengths need more light.

The aperture blades look ok, you can't really make a mistake reassembling them, as long as their pins are set in their positions correctly. The aperture opening on yours looks the same as my Minolta 7S, which is 45mm focal length, but f16 is still pretty small.

Excellent post orsetto, and as usual from you, very informative and useful. It's prompted me to retrieve my 50mm 6.3 from my cabinet to see if there is actually a niche suitable and large enough for feeding drops of oil onto the very end of the helical. It turns out there is, without disassembling any parts (see photo). The red arrow points to a slot, through which the helical is accessible so tiny drops of oil can be placed on the end of it and allowed to run down, but the focus ring must first be turned to a position to expose the helical .. that position is "1m" or "3.5ft". A toothpick is too large in diam for the job, which is what I generally use, so a piece of thin wire, slightly bent will work - is my message to the OP. Using a mini torch, the shiny threads of the helical can just be seen through that slot, but they're off to one side, the outer side, so the lens will need to be angled at 45 degrees while drops of oil are placed in there, one per hour for three or four hours perhaps, and then left over night, after which the focus ring should be turned to start working the oil around. It may take quite some time to achieve easy smooth turning of the focus ring, given that only a tiny drop of oil will be allowed each time, to prevent any from finding it's way to places it doesn't need to be.

There's a small resistor added to the adaptor to drain some voltage from the 1.55v battery.

Very nice but I think the scene needs to be shot again so that the rails etc, look less like clutter, or not shown at all. The bright light on the floor in the lower right is distracting and indiscernible from a pool of flood water. The lens flare "dots" (if that's what they are) below the stairs need to be spotted out. I agree the shadows are too deep and there's no detail in them to make them good, you're stuck with those dark shadows the way they are. Good attempt though IMO. Perhaps a few bracketed shots at a few different aperture settings, and positions, would have given you a better chance for success.

Had a go at correcting it Mike, in "Preview", which is the standard editor in Apple's M1 computer Ventura's software.

You can down-size in a photo editor by clicking on "Adjust size" under "Tools". Adjust to 1,000 pixels for the horizontal size.

I don't own one but the LCD would probably drain more battery power than the meter itself, so to save battery power, the LCD turns off, but leaves the meter ready for instant use when needed during your session. And of course the LCD would also light up again when you activate the meter for your next reading.

Let me explain that in more detail. When you go past the last frame, the handle free wheels in relation to the counter and film indexing mechanism, they disengage because they are not needed for winding the tail of the backing paper through. But, while the handle feels like it is free wheeling, it's still engaged to the winding gears that turn the take-up spool, hence why you can wind the tail through and complete the winding of the roll. And yes, there should be a minimum of resistance at the handle. So those winding gear are in play, contrary to my assertion that "no other mechanisms come into play" When you finally get to check for tension after "12" without a film in the camera, be reminded that the winding gears will turn via the handle, constantly with the handle being wound, and they should be very easy to turn. If there is as much tension on the handle as you described, maybe it would be wise to remove the film in a change bag or a very dark room after you expose No12. You can of course try the handle sooner if you felt like it. You can remove the film in the dark, roll it up, and replace it after you've tried the handle tension. It's only a matter of remembering the frame you're up to, and wind it back to that frame later. However, if the handle tension is tight without the film, I wouldn't put the film back in, I'd get the camera fixed first, you might do more damage otherwise.

Are you close to the repairer where you got the CLA done ? I'm thinking that maybe you could leave the film in the camera after the last frame is exposed and get the repairer to feel the tension on the winding handle. I'm also thinking that the repairer, while fixing the "lumpy wind on", something else went amiss during that process, and is causing the tightness in winding handle. Normally, after the last frame, the counter disengages and the winding handle free wheels, I just checked on my C3. Your 3.5F should do the same. With a film in the camera, and after the last frame, the handle free wheels, but pulls the tail of the backing paper through, with no other mechanism coming into play, no counter, and no resistance from any other mechanism. So it appears that your handle is meeting an abnormal resistance from within the winding mechanism itself, or it could have something to do with the counter, possibly it's not disengaging properly and getting jammed. That is if it's proved that the film is not binding in the film chambers. Can you remember if there was tension on the handle when no film was in the camera ? Checking this will solve where the problem will be. Without a film in the camera, check the handle tension after 12, (or is it 11). I take it you will have to do this after you finish your current Portra film.

Just click on the row of dots in the upper right corner of your post and then click on "Edit"

Great shot of the sunset James ... Were you in a plane or parked on a high road?