Kat D.

Hi Evan. My Proxars are Bay 60. The colors of the reflections vary. I have three 0.5, one 1.0, and one 2.0.

Yes, I was referring to the coating as I said earlier. "Tint" not correct term. I had an old Angenieux movie camera lens that had a pink reflection, so there must be some coating that can cause that color. I just checked all my Proxars. The 2.0 has a greenish reflection. Others are blue, except for the one pinkish. I will just assume they have different types of coatings.

Yes, I know there is no east or west Germany anymore, but I didn't know how recently Proxars were made. If not after reunification, that would be good clue the Proxar is fake :) But good point about there being no big market for fake Proxars. I thought maybe back in the day...... I'm going to see if I can find out what a pinkish cast vs bluish cast to the glass signifies.

I got a 0.5 Proxar from Keh recently. I noticed that it was different than my other Proxars: -- Plastic rim lighter black and different texture (not as glossy) -- Tint in glass is bluish instead of pinkish -- Says "Lens-Germany" instead of "Lens-West Germany" Anyone know if there were fake ones made? Or could this one be a more recent version than my other ones? But doesn't a pinkish tint mean it has coating -- so the bluish tint would mean it is not recent, or fake? Thanks.

<p>Update: Received my film back on Friday. I was happy with the sharpness of my photos. (Hassy 201F on tripod but with no cable release, hit shutter release with finger, 1/30 second, f 2.8, 110/2 lens.)<br> Here is one I've scanned so far:</p> <p> <p>Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion. Lots of good info.</p>

<p>J LaRocco: Very interesting. I want to find out about this. When I ran into problems yesterday, my camera seemed jammed, and I was relieved when it worked again after I took the cable release out. I vaguely remember hearing something about some cable releases projecting too far into Hasselblads? If you get the scoop, please let us know. Or if you can tell me who to ask at Hasselblad, NJ, I'd be happy to call. I usually deal with Maryann there. Maybe she can refer me to right person......</p>

<p>Thanks for the Nikon recommendation, Anthony. Checked your web site.....nice that you put all that great info about focal plane shutter Hasselblads there.</p>

<p>Michael: How interesting that you don't use cable release. Makes me feel more hopeful about these three rolls of film. However, I wasn't dampening movement of camera with my hand. After the film is developed, I'll report the results.....</p>

<p>Edward: Yes, extra cable releases would be smart! Interesting idea about pressing down on top of camera. Will have to try that. Thanks.</p> <p>Jose: You mean you don't find a difference whether you use cable release or not with your Mamiya on tripod?</p> <p>Colin: When I saw your link, I imagined they'd be extremely expensive. But not bad at all, about 33 EU with shipping. The Pentax release I ordered from B&H yesterday was $20. I think I'll order a Schreck one, too. Thanks.</p>

<p>It does have a self-timer, and I see from the manual that it can be set to 2 seconds, so that may have worked. Didn't think of it. Though I was trying to catch certain expressions, so a 2-second delay would've been a little frustrating. But good idea to consider that next time cable release breaks. Thanks.</p>

<p>In the middle of my photo shoot today, the cable release which I had in my Hassy 201F while I was shooting at 1/30 second on a tripod, stopped working. (I have the worst luck with cable releases.) I continued with the camera on the tripod, but hit the release with my finger. Do you think the images will show camera shake? My model was a friend who was being very still. This wasn't a paying job fortunately. Will have the film developed, but I'm wondering if I should be hopeful. </p> <p>I just ordered a Pentax cable release. I seem to remember that brand lasting longer than others. Any input on best release for a Hassy or cable release brands you've found reliable in general would be welcome.</p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Craig and Rodeo Joe: Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Rodeo Joe and Bill C : Fascinating. I had never heard of Photocontrol's Camerz Classic or the Beattie Portronic. After your first post, Bill, I quickly googled "70 mm film" and got info about movie film. Didn't see mention of it being used in still cameras (but I just quickly looked).</p> <p>In case others are interested, here is some info about the cameras Bill C mentioned. Very cool.<br> http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Camerz<br> http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Beattie</p> <p>[bill C] "...good photos are readily available to nearly anyone today...." Well, I would say it's easier for someone to make a competent photo, but I don't know if that means it is good :) Though I'm a newbie regarding strobes, I'm not a newbie photographer. I'm old enough to know what the world was like before digital. In addition to taking photos for many years myself, I worked as a design director for a magazine. As photographers went digital, quality went down. Also, we were forced to use more amateur photography, because, of course, everyone and their grandmother were now taking pictures. Don't get me going.</p> <p>I have a lot of respect for older film photographers, such as many here.....</p> <p>Eric: Glad to hear you could run the D1 Air modeling light for two hours without problem. That's how long I would probably want to run them. Also thanks for your experience re the sound and light not being too upsetting to subjects.</p> <p>I actually ordered the strobe today, will be here in about a week. Then the fun begins....</p> <p>Thanks, everyone.</p>

<p>Hi Bill. Your experiences with strobes are so interesting. High volume on film must've been quite stressful. I use film most of the time myself and hate the digital style of shooting a zillion shots when just a few thoughtful shots would suffice. But having the pressure of getting it right...on film....in high volume situation would be stressful indeed. What do you mean by 70mm film? Hasselblad X-pan? Or was that a typo and you meant 60mm (120 film)?</p> <p>Interesting story about the blinking and hiding the remote trip handle. Photographer as psychologist....</p> <p>Good point about budgeting for a second strobe.</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi Bill. Thanks for correcting my "watts per second." I need to read more about all the aspects of strobes. Your explanation of watts seconds is very clear. Thanks. It does sound like the 500 watts second would be good general purpose strobe, and I could pretty easily reduce the power.</p>