kadir_kirisci

Hasselblad has one of the simplest and smartest helicoid design ever. I find Nikon's more complicated.

I can take apart a blad lens and a body completely and put it back. those aren't my problems. HELIMAX-XP is a very LOW-quality grease that I don't even consider using that on anything. As I said on the first post, I want some PERSONAL EXPERIENCES. I have no problem repairing the gear, I just have problems finding grease for the helicoids. that is it. If anyone has personal experience with this, and want to share what they use, that be great. I do not need repairing tips unless you are a camera repairman. --- The only Hasselblad equipment that I cannot repair fully is the F/FE series lenses. My question isn't experience or skill based. I just do not have an access to grease that hasselblad uses. I'm just asking for an alternative.

Hello, I repair Hasselblad lenses and bodies and I'm Self-taught. So, there are many things I'm just not aware of. Hasselblad (C lenses) helicoid is one of them. I have 8-9 different types of greases that I use on other cameras. All work just FINE, except the Hasselblad lenses. After a long, long research I found 2 things. Hasselblad C lenses used Losimol brand grease and it is petroleum based, looks like a peanut butter. The problem is, I cannot order from Losimol. They simply do not reply to my emails. Whenever I use my other greases on Hasselblad helicoid's I get contact noise. Stuff I use isn't cheap or anything. Mostly made in Germany and such. I had to experiment and mix my own, it works but takes so much time prepare, apply, clean and so on. I rather spent less time on this step. Anyways, Does anyone know a grease that I can use on Hasselblad C lenses and be happy with it? I need to hear personal experiences since regular stuff basically does not work... thanks

I repair Hasselblad F Lenses and modify their blades a bit so they don't get stuck every two years. My prices are cheaper than Hasselblad and KEH. Including the modification. You can also send me a message about C and C T* lenses. I do not work on CT lenses. I also work on Rolleiflex TLR shutters, I do not work on old style ones. The ones you cannot change the speed from 250 to 500 when the camera is cocked. I don't like them, rather not work on them. You can contact me via kadirkirisci1@gmail.com I'm located in the USA and accept PayPal. Checks and such are fine as well

Hey, it's fine I like to help. I wish you mentioned the Rollie version you have, but I can make a rough guess. If you have a Tessar 3.5, this problem is very common. Back in the day, rollie messed up the optic matching. It caused many (like thousands of) rollie tessar's with unmatched taking lenses (bottom). It's not a surprised that your images are bad. Those lenses are faulty and CANNOT be repaired, they need to replaced. I own 7 rollie's 3.5 Planar, Tessar opton, Xenotar, Xenar and 2 2.8 Xenotar's. Images I get from these are excellent, my personal favorite is the 3.5 Planar which beats any rollie lens ever produced because it has no visible distortion unlike 2.8 xenotar or the planar. My Rollie Tessar OPTON is superb too, I actually love to use it for portraits. The character of the optic suits portraits very well. --- When Rollie messed up Tessar lenses so much, they produced the OPTON Tessar, which is the same thing but it guarantees that your optics are actually matched. If your lens is something else, well you are probably out of calibration. If that is the case, your Rollie needs a maintenance. There is an easy way to check this too. --- Set your focus to Infinity, check the focus, if the focus is sharp on the top lens, that means your viewing lens is calibrated. If it is soft, that thing needs some love. After taking the photo, look if the images produced at infinity is sharp. If not, your top lens is out of calibration which is much easier to fix in my opinion. hope this helps you and, I also own a Hasselblad system. 3.5 planar or the xenotar beats my 80mm C T* hands down..

Yeah, some Rollei 2.8F have those too, but they aren't available on these models. at least I cannot find any example. One RolleiF 2.8 prototype i have seen has this socket

Hello! I got this Rolleiflex 3.5 xenar recently. It's serial number is 129 5216, so it is a Rolleiflex K4A After looking at maybe more than 100 K4A bodies, I suspect that this one might be a prototype. The socket between the focusing dial and the film holder isn't available on any other K4A. I don't know what it does, but it's there. The small pin on it can be pushed and it returns. what do you guys think? Any help will be greatly appreciated

how so? can you define "easily adaptable"? How do you do that?

<p>was it that simple? I literally clicked on everything except my name.<br> thank you so much! </p>

<p>thanks for the info, </p> <p>I guess I have figured it out, <br> These adapters are M58 mount, and there are adapters like M58 to M48 and M48 to something else and goes on like this. <br> So, after getting this thing, if the lens I got is something like I don't know, let's say M48, I just need to get get a new adapter. </p> <p>I would like to have a petzval lens, they are available for my 2000 FC/M but hard to find, expensive and collectible. <br> rather than spending and hunting down a new copy, I could just take this approach </p>

<p>thanks for the info, </p> <p>I guess I have figured it out, <br> These adapters are M58 mount, and there are adapters like M58 to M48 and M48 to something else and goes on like this. <br> So, after getting this thing, if the lens I got is something like I don't know, let's say M48, I just need to get get a new adapter. </p> <p>I would like to have a petzval lens, they are available for my 2000 FC/M but hard to find, expensive and collectible. <br> rather than spending and hunting down a new copy, I could just take this approach </p>

<p>was it that simple? I literally clicked on everything except my name.<br> thank you so much! </p>

<p>Hey, <br> I couldn't find the thread created I create,<br> I don't know where reply notification are.<br> after using apug for years photo.net is like... Hard...</p> <p>If I need to introduce myself<br> I'm in my 20s, <br> I like to shoot film with my hasselblad 500c/m and 1000F. Sometimes I take my nikon S3 with me</p> <p>I'm interested in creating photo chemicals, I have several successful adapts. I'm planning to jump to wet plate in about a year or two. </p> <p>that is it. </p>

<p>Hello,<br />I was browings ebay and saw an adapter called "helicoid" for hasselblad 200/ 2000 cameras.</p> <p>Seller is Chinese, we cannot communicate at all</p> <p>Anyone here have experience with them? <br />I have hasselblad lenses, but I like to try out new lenses. So I thought it could be nice to adapt few other lenses on my Hasselblad body.</p> <p>If you could tell me what kind of lenses I can mount on that adapter, infinity to focus, adding more adapters to use common lenses like nikon / canon and some other things I just couldn't think of.</p> <p>thanks</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks so much Bill, the numbers you gave looks like really close with the label. I see those numbers!<br /> 860 ml something ( probably reple) + 18ml starter + 122 water.<br />-<br /> If I'm going to use that much of Replenisher and just a little bit of stater, I guess I dont need that much of developer starter, am I right? I have 1.2 liters of it and if 1 liters of active solution only requires 18 ml, that means I can make close to 83 liters. <br />-<br /> After creating my first active solution, I will have about 4.2 liters of replenisher left and 1.18 liters of developer starter. I wonder why the smallest size for this product is 1.2 liters. <br /> Do you know how much replenisher to add after developing a roll of film? is there a pdf anywhere?<br /><br /><br />Why kodak makes everything this hard, is it really necessary?</p>