joseph_andrew

In an internet history first, OP is back. Started taking apart cameras and even making darkroom prints. Dusted EL off ... and followed your directions about resetting the pin properly. Reset verification fails. The indicator shows around 2.8 after a reset - not 5.6 or absence. The Nikon EL metering is still around 7 stops underexposed. The camera has sentimental value, as my father passed away. But it looks beautiful and exposes if meter is ignored. I do not know if the problem is an old cell, or the bayonet itself. I would take the camera apart and try to fix it, but I lack the specialized tools and knowledge. What are the problems with the EL? We may never know, but I plan to keep this camera. My dad's nikkormat works perfectly - and that is still my favorite analog camera. I have a machine-shopped bottom that takes cells which gets the meter voltage proper too. Thank you everyone for keeping this post alive!

<p>Thank you Ellis!</p>

<p>Hello everyone!</p> <p>By some wondrous fortune, I have had the opportunity to begin taking interior shots of small businesses for websites: a silkscreen shop, a yoga studio, soon, a graphic design company, a typewriter store, and hopefully other places soon. Remarkably, I am getting paid for it!</p> <p>Because I have so much fun doing this (Im 27 years old) AND Im starting to get referred to some businesses in the STL area, Id like to branch out and kind of brand myself (via making my own website to direct traffic to). </p> <p>But I have encountered a simple problem of naming when it comes to branding what exactly I do. </p> <p>What is a concise way of saying "making-artsy-website-photography-for-independent businesses"? </p> <p>Thank you all in advance :) </p>

<p>Again, </p> <p>Thank you everyone for your help. I went ahead and called a professional analog camera repairman from Chicago.<br> He discovered this - mechanically, the camera works fine. This was news to me. </p> <p>Its just that the meter is 7 stops overexposed, and I was using the Aperture mode (A) the entire time. Doh!</p> <p>But its still in disrepair. The body coupler doesnt work with the electrical system! Even with a brand new battery. He said that he will fix any camera BESIDES the EL - it was one of the first electronic Nikkormats, and fixing the system is not his wheelhouse. </p> <p>I am sorry I couldnt be of more help either! But it will make a great mechanical camera still. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Stephen and David, </p> <p>I want to thank you both for your responses. So, I followed your instructions to the word. And now I KNOW there is a problem.<br> When loaded per your instructions, the aperture ring of the attached lens can move in any which way. However - the coupler on the body will only allow the diaphragm to be wide open, or stopped down to f8.</p> <p>I can see the diaphragm being controlled (opening up or closing) by the aperture ring when I hold the mounted lens towards my face. But the Nikkormat EL body doesnt seem to want to allow the diaphragm anymore than half open. </p> <p>Woah!</p>

<p>Thanks Stephen!</p> <p>After mounting the lens correctly, I was indeed able to use the full aperture range of the lens. Interestingly, the red indicator still does not indicate proper mounting...and the exposure meter is about 7 stops overexposing! </p> <p>But I will do some more tests :) </p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi all!</p> <p>I recently acquired a Nikkormat EL from my brother. I took an entire roll of film that came back from the lab "unexposed". </p> <p>I began to check for various problems, and noticed that the lens coupler (on the body of the EL) indicates that lens isnt mounted properly, and I CANT seem to mount it properly. (there should be a slight red indicator that on the coupler that matches the maximum aperture of the mounted lens, but it doesnt for me, despite following mounting instructions properly)</p> <p>Furthermore, the lenses that mount seem limited to a range of apertures. For example, my 55mm 3.5 lens cannot move to the minimum aperture of f32, or even f22 on the Nikkormat EL body...it can only move from f16 to f3.5!</p> <p>I am unsure why the roll came back unexposed, but I have an inkling its related to the lens coupler mount on the body. </p> <p>The "check battery" light works, as I checked the battery. </p> <p>My dearest friends on Photo.net, any ideas? </p>

<p>I want to thank everyone for their responses :) </p> <p>David, I definitely tested a different lens, as you mentioned in the previous thread. If I load the 110 lens, the shutter engages with the indicated SS dial inputs, and if I load the 80mm lens, the shutter is visibly out of sync. When I observed that, I knew something was fishy, and tested to ensure that the visible malfunction translated into a messed up roll of film. With the 80mm lens, it did turn out messed up, 4 times. A roll of film developed with the 110 lens turned out perfect. I believe your suggestion in the previous thread was correct. <br> I dont have an extra body. I suppose I could switch lenses in the middle of the reel next time to be doubly sure? </p> <p>Vernon - ok woah....did not know about that common error. You see, I do find it interesting that sometimes my lenses become stuck and hard to remove...maybe theres something with the lens connection on the 80mm specifically?</p> <p>Charles, interesting. I may have to get some repair done if Vernons suggestion doesnt work..its a shame to have lens that doesnt work bogging me down. Do you have any recommendations for good analog film repairmen/women? The local camera store here recommended KEH or Excellent Photo Repair...Thanks!</p> <p>Im going to investigate further. Thank you everyone!!</p>

<p>Hi all...</p> <p>I recently posted a query about my bronica sq a with battery operated spot metered, which had rolls of film which did not come out right. (http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00dk5Q)</p> <p>I discovered the problem was the lens. When I depress the shutter button the camera body, the lens shutter stays much longer than the shutter speed I input. For example, if I turn the SS dial to 1/500, the leaf shutter on the 80 mm lens will stay open another 2 seconds. It leads to some pretty weird results on the film roll (see attached link from previous thread). </p> <p>Anyway, I would appreciate some help on how to fix the problem. I bought the camera dirt cheap on eBay, but it is literally like new. The lens, though its not functioning, looks like it just came out of the box...<br> Does anyone have any ideas on what to...do? </p> <p>Or is this a stupid question, and I look stupid now? <br> ...</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Ive used transparency film 5 years past expiry date unrefrigerated. It worked really well, just a blue cast, easily color corrected in post. </p>

<p>Leszek, <br> Thats exactly what I did for my second shoot - and it worked so well! Thanks :)<br> BeBu, thanks for the advice on taste...I suppose it is possible to become so overwhelmed by sharpness that one overlooks other significant components of the shoot....some of my pics at 3200 and 1/125 were blurry, and I threw them out...maybe I should have another look at them?<br> Ellis - I borrowed a monopod, but I am looking to invest in one soon....!<br> Craig, I dont think you really paid attention to my statement...I was working in a venue with no flash allowed..and I cant move.. I wonder why you want the specifics anyway of the company. You were no help. </p> <p>Thanks everyone! </p>

<p>PROBLEM SOLVED!!!</p> <p>David Henderson, you nailed it. </p> <p>Switched lenses, problem vanished. </p> <p>Confirmed by observing lens shutter on various settings (as vernon recommended) - 80mm 2.8 has some shutter lag. How it created that specific look will probably remain a mystery to me forever...</p>

<p>Vernon, </p> <p>See, now we are talking. I sense an investigation underway!! Ill repost when I find the answer :)</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for your speedy responses!</p> <p>David, thank you for your input. Thats something easy to overlook - a noisy picture is better than one that is blurry :) I do not have image stabilization, but I do have a tripod. The problem is that the people move - I have noticed that truly sharp images come from 1/125 of a second, when the subjects arent moving. I would use a tripod to stop camera shake - but at 1/60 and 1/30 I get motion blur (minor movements the subjects make). I guess I get your point - if I could handhold at 1/125 or use a tripod at 1/125, it would be better to have a tripod...actually Im unsure about using a tripod in general. Handheld gives me freedom of motion, and the tripod lets me pull of 1/60 with a long lens when the subject sits REALLLLLY still :)</p> <p>Jeff, thank you too. I find myself turning to the luminance reduction too. I never thought of introducing "grain" either....interesting! Thanks!</p> <p>Thank you both!</p>

<p>Hi all!<br> I have been doing my first model shoots in a dark studio, with no lighting equipment or flashes allowed (the company doesnt want to disturb the clients in their meditation session). <br> I have found that a very good exposure for this space is f4, 1/125 second, and ISO 3200 , if I want to handhold with a 60 mm lens. <br> But the concept of grain terrifies me. I dont know why. <br> And yet I want to use an aperture of f8, but that takes me up to 12800!<br> My camera is Nikon Df, which has some pretty solid NR, but can someone briefly summarize the decision making process they go through before a shoot to decide which compromises to make?<br> Thanks!</p> <p> </p>