Jump to content

jorge

PhotoNet Pro
  • Posts

    2,991
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Jobo used to have a tank & reel for 6 or 8 4x5 sheets. I still have one on my darkroom, now virtually abandoned. I now load the reels (mainly 35mm but the occasional 120 too) in a bag and process in the kitchen. Darkroom is cluttered with the missus junk. I miss film and darkroom very much; used to process my own C-41 'cuz the local labs were pigs, but now I cannot get or justify doing that so the Jobo processor is just gathering dust. I can still shoot and process TX400 and have enough HC-110 to last me a few years. However, while film cameras and darkroom gear are now dirt cheap, film and processing materials are expensive. I have to get mine from Amazon as the nearest dealer who carries film is 300 km away.
  2. Hello folks! Although a member of PN since 1999 I've neglected the fora for many years. I have a couple of questions that I'd be grateful to get feedback on. In 1994 I got a Minolta Dimage 5400 scanner (v1) for my 35mm film and it gave me the best scans I've ever seen, however it proved to be an extremely quirky model, despite resolving even ISO 100 film grain. It refused to expel the film holder around 2010 and I forcefully pulled it, recovering my negatives but losing the scanner. Since Minolta had already folded by then, I kept it stored in hope of a miracle. Besides, I had migrated to digital more or less fully by then. Now, I lost my scan archive to a disk crash that wasn't backed (mirrored) up (I had the film, right? So...). Got me a Plustek 8100 a couple of months ago but even with the claimed 7200 resolution it pales to the 5400. At 3600 it's all right save for the limited D of 3.8(?) compared to the Minolta 4.8. It forces me to some pirouettes of multiple exposures with many contrasty negatives. Finally, the questions: 1. Is there any repair shop that can handle the Minolta 5400? 2. Can VueScan acquire from it in case I don't get drivers for Windows 10? Thanks for any feedback. It's really important for me to recover at least some 300-odd frames.
  3. Some of the sharpest lenses I own are Voigländers and now that I'm shooting film again, trying not to forget the heroic times, the sharpest I have are a Nikkor AI-S 50/1.4 which I use on a Nikon FM2n from 1992 and a Voigländer Nokton 50/1,5 that goes on a Leica M2. I'm no longer printing wet, although I'm set up for B&W and color in any format up to 4x5". For starters, I could never get the purity of color scanning and photoshop give me and my film scanner resolves Tri-X grain perfectly. OTOH, I've been putting my M2 with Summicron 50/2 and Tri-X vs my Fuji X-Pro2 with a Leica Summicron 35/2 (equivalent to the former) shooting JPG in Acros film emulation and fixed ISO 400 and there's simply no contest. Film is exciting, romantic, retro, sharpens your dulled skills, but "D" takes the edge, not only in quality but in convenience. After developing the roll, drying it in sanitized closet in my darkroom, sleeving, proof-scanning, and then spotting, I end investing more time per frame in the computer than I did in the darkroom. Emotionally rewarding but not as a regular hobby.
  4. jorge

  5. jorge

  6. I have a V750 and am familiar with the Epson Scan utility, which is quite good, except that it cannot do multiple scans. OTOH, I hate Silverfast interface and commercial policies (I refuse to pay them $70 for an upgrade from 6.6 to 8) and having purchased the Pro version of Vuescan ages ago, that's what I use. Learning curve is not really intuitive but it's not rocket science either. I you could learn Photoshop, it's a piece of cake. BTW, I've managed multiple scan passes with Epson Scan just by doing three different scans with different exposure settings and then blend in Photoshop.
  7. jorge

    YOU!

    Jorge, I know you've been striving for the Salgado look for a long time and was about to comment on a thread where film & developer(s) used by him are discussed that the process is far less important than the camera work. You validated my statement, thanks! This image --as you properly explain its technical shortcommings- while not perfect in contrast, tonal range, grain (or lack of it), etc., is in the purest S. Salgado style. Forget the workflow, the image is the foundation! ...and as the MasterCard ad says, for the rest there is always Photoshop. ;)
  8. Exposure Date: 2012:11:18 22:33:49; Make: Panasonic; Model: DMC-LX5; ExposureTime: 1/5 s; FNumber: f/3; ISOSpeedRatings: 400; ExposureProgram: Normal program; ExposureBiasValue: 4294967196/100; MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 19 mm; FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 90 mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop CC 2015 Windows;

    © © Jorge M. Treviño

  9. jorge

    Mondrian DSCF0099

    Exposure Date: 2016:03:05 13:24:21; Make: FUJIFILM; Model: X-Pro1; ExposureTime: 1/3800 s; FNumber: f/2; ISOSpeedRatings: 400; ExposureProgram: Aperture priority; ExposureBiasValue: 33/100; MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 35 mm; FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 53 mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop CC 2015 (Windows);
  10. <p>Greg, huge thanks for your post. I installed W10 last night only to find a lot of peripherals gone. Followed your recipe and now my (aging) monitor is true to printer colors and color targets. Now, if you or somebody can tell me how to configure a R128-G128-B128 desktop? Windows offers a color swatch but cannot find which one is the true middle gray.</p>
  11. <p>Hans, the Leica IIIf is a superb shooter and should be easy to CLA and fit new curtains for not an inordinate amount. I have one like yours but older (Nr. 48****) and with the self timer; also cleaner. It belonged to my father who died at 91 in 1995. I'd try to find me a used screw mount Voigtländer Color-Skopar 35/2.5 with the accessory brightline finder and put it to work. The Color-Skopar is a modern lens with excellent image quality and goes on the IIIf like it was born there. I still shoot mine with modern Voigtländer lenses.</p>
  12. <p>Charles, Ron,<br> The 4800 resetter <strong>does NOT work</strong> on the 3800/3880 maint. carts. There's a different resetter for those (also from inksupply or others --check ebay for prices. Caveat, on the 3800/3880 you need to have at least one extra -new or resetted- cartridge to flush the internal memory of the printer. Otherwise, even if the cartridge is reset, the machine will recognize it and won't budge from the percentage it remembers.</p>
  13. <p>Linda,<br> I may be biased but if I had to choose only one camera among the 30-odd I own (of which only seven are digital but span from full frame DSLR to shirt pocket P&S) the one I'd keep is the LX100. Let me elaborate a bit; I've been shooting since age 11 when I got my first camera, a Kodak Six-20 and I've used most averything from View cameras, medium format, 35mm SLRs, rangefinders & PS, plus -as mentioned- a decent array of digitals.</p> <p>Also, since the Lumix LX3 hit the streets, I've been using them; LX3, 5, 7 and now the LX100. The camera is near perfect: manual contros where they should be, nimble and intuitive operation plus a truckload of automation that will get you through most any situation you might normally encounter, unless you need a fisheye ore are into sports reportage of wildlife photography.</p> <p>For its versatility I'd like to invite you to visit my LX100 album in my gallery here or the one I have in Facebook (look me up with my name, it's open). The AF is fast and accurate but you also have one of the best electronic rangefinders you'll find if you prefer to focus by hand. The EVF is brilliant, cistomizable and it's intergrated, like it should. There's also an eyepiece adjustment that should accomodate most people's needs. The info displeyed can be customized in a series of ways that much more expensive cameras cannot.</p> <p>As for image quality, I've printed 17x11" from it that cannot be distinguished from my Nikon D700 or Fujifilm X system cameras.</p> <p><strong>I recommend it heartily</strong> and, in any case, if you live in the USA, <strong>you can return it if you find it doesn't suit you</strong>.</p> <p>One last pair of suggestions:</p> <p>a) Get the automatic lens cover. The original Panasonic is pricey but you can get a JJC brand one at Amazon at a fraction the price.</p> <p>b) If you like to shoot macro, get a set of close-up lenses. They are economic and work perfectly.</p> <p>and</p> <p>c) <strong>Probably the most important</strong>, buy the book by Alex White about the camera. It beats the cryptic manual tenfold. It's only about $10 en electronic form:<br> http://whiteknightpress.com/photographers-guide-to-the-panasonic-lumix-lx100/</p><div></div>
×
×
  • Create New...