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Johnnya101

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  1. Yes, I know, however I'm kind of hesitant since most sellers have no idea how they work and I'd rather spend the money here on one that I know works to some degree.
  2. Looking to buy a working (and hopefully accurate) light meter, the old selenium type. Accurate or close to accurate would be best. Not looking to spend much, since from my understanding they generally go for around $10-$20? Doesn't really matter what brand, just would like a nice working one. Thanks
  3. Hello again everyone! First image is of my Model T engine in my Cadet II enlarger. Used a negative app on my phone to make it a positive. It's a low quality image from my phone, looks alooot better in person. Second image is of my Volvo. This is a print I did at my school. It's a bit too dark, should've exposed it for less time. Once again, iPhone photo so its low quality. Conclusion of this thread: I was able to focus my Kodak Pony successfully! No light leaks either! Takes amazing photos for a cheap 50s camera, and they all have that retro look which is cool. Thank you everyone for your help! I just received my first darkroom kit (Beseler Printmaker with Cadet II) so once I get the rest of my chemicals I can start processing!
  4. Ok guys, thank you once again for the info. I'll hopefully order paper today and check it out once it's here. Rodeo Joe, any suggestions for some nice cheaper ones for beginners? (LED)
  5. Thank you Scott! These ones look like they are more round than bullet shaped. I only have a blurry photo from the seller. Yellow and green with that black "base". I'll probably just order a real light on eBay, can I probably just use any of those rectangular wall mount units that are amber? Again, sorry if this is a dumb question. Or maybe I'll just test the Kodak one... I don't even have the lot of stuff yet, probably getting it tomorrow.
  6. Thank you! I don't have the paper on hand so cannot check :(, but I'd like to order it with the paper if I do need a different color. The light will be about 8 feet above the work area... Are you suggesting I use a coated light and then the Kodak filter? Or will it not matter at that distance and dimness?
  7. Hello everyone, Getting into darkroom printing, and I am wondering what safelight color I should be using with some Arista.Edu paper? (Its the cheapest stuff, want to use it so I dont feel bad if I mess up!). Its FB, VC. I am getting a kit full of printing stuff with an enlarger, etc, and it comes with kodak brownie safelights, yellow and green, which I have read not to use, but some say its safe? Should I buy a generic red safelight bulb? New to this, so sorry if this is a dumb question! I dont think the site says which to use...
  8. Okay everyone, got some B&W film from my school (Think its Arista Edu? 400 ISO, 24). Took some photos and will have to wait until next week to get them developed and see the results. Will update.
  9. Ok, progress finally. The tape helps alooooott. My focus was way off and I'm slowly adjusting it :) Focused on a lamp shade in a dark room about 5 feet away, cars outside from a dark room, went in a pitch black room with one window and looked outside at some trees, kind of difficult to focus on on brown branches through a small window. Getting the hang of this. So pretty much adjust the lens until it is accurate, say focus in on that lamp at 5 feet so the adjustment ring says 5 feet and the lamp is clear and stuff like that at different distances and it should be good enough? Once again, thank you guys for helping out a newbie. Sorry if I ask any dumb questions, don't want to waste my first roll and find out it's blurry and out of focus!
  10. Thank you Chuck for the explanation, helps a ton!
  11. Thanks Charles, will check it out. Edit Here's the way one guy focused it. Once again, new to these so some help making sure I am correct in understanding his would be great. "My method for refocusing the lens is to take a piece of clear plastic cut from a blister pack, put some tape on one side, and then secure it in the film plane with the taped side towards the back of the lens. At full aperture, I then don my magnifying hood, and head for a window to sight on something more than 100 feet away. Looking at the plastic, you can then rotate the focus ring until the lens achives infinity." So put some frosted tape on the clear plastic, put it on film plane with taped frosted part facing back of inner lens. Open to full applerture. Here's where I am stumped, what's a magnifying hood exactly and do I need one to do this? From what I quickly looked up it's just a dark surround pretty much?
  12. The glass lens screws in one way. I screwed it in tight and backed it out a little bit. It unscrews to focus so if it was tight I would be able to say, move it past 50ft to infinity because it would be too tight. That's what one of the sites said to do. I am new to this, so I am trying my best to describe! :) So the front element moves, not the whole thing if that's what you mean. Yes, I removed the infinity stop but everything screws back into place so really the only thing that is possibly out of focus is how far the lens is screwed in, since once again, the focus knob acres in the lens or loosens it. Right now I have some plastic, I'd guess around 1mm to 2mm thick. I turned on a lamp and it was, as you said and it should be, upside down and backwards. Focusing sort of worked, but it's just such a small difference. I have some film on the way so if no one has any ideas I'll just try to take some pictures and I'll see. It's a cheaper camera so I am not looking for it to be perfect.
  13. Hello, New member here, please let me know if I am doing something wrong. I recently have gotten a Kodak Pony 135 Model C, and had to take apart the front lens for cleaning as there was a lot of sticking in the mechanics. I think I should attempt to refocus the front lens again. I have read very limited information regarding this. Someone said I could tape plastic to the film plane and attempt to try and focus it that ways. I've tried that and focusing does not really make a difference at all at what I see. Surely someone else has gone through a better procedure? Thanks
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