johnny_roc

I've been shooting everything in manual mode my whole life ( purist over here ). Considering switching to auto to speed things up especially shooting models. What's your go to auto method for using strobes with a dslr? Is ETTL mode the way to go? Tips & tricks for instantly nailing exposure please. Could someone walk me through this. No RTFM replies please. Of course manual mode would allow me to light her exactly how I want but let's say the objective is to set up & shoot in seconds..

<p>Hmm. Someone on the polaroid section wrote this:<br> "The 116mm lens on the SX-70 with 7.9x7.9cm format has an <a href="http://www.radical.org/aov/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">angle of view</a> of 38 degrees at 3m and is roughly comparable to a 52mm normal lens on a full frame or 35mm film camera. It's difficult to compare because of the differences in aspect ratio. But it's comparable to an 80mm lens on a 6x6cm square medium format camera such as a typical TLR or many 6x6 SLRs."<br> <br />So is it 35mm or 52mm ?! I can't imagine it being 35mm because Andy would have to be standing extremely close to the subject to get a close up with a wide angle if that was true which doesn't seem to be the case. But wait. He's using the "Big Shot" camera here so it seems I was asking the wrong question all along. I was under the impression he was shooting his portraits with an sx-70.<br> http://assets.nydailynews.com/polopoly_fs/1.1439561.1377722641!/img/httpImage/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/gallery_970/farrah-fawcett-andy-warhol.jpg</p>

<p>What a futuristic piece of equipment. I've never been a fan of Terry's work when it comes to technique but it's hard to argue with success. Teller's work is beautiful in my opinion... The red eye issue makes sense. I remember having to deal with it when working with a ring flash. I'll have to watch out for that. Thanks Lex and Larry, appreciate the help. </p>

That explains why Juergen Teller uses a built in flash. I'll have to experiment with this. My 5dmk3 doesn't have a built in one but I'll try it with my speedlite and maybe even my strobe.

<p>@Lex so in other words I'll get close with my 50mm prime on the 5dmk3 ? I'm only concerned with the facial features looking the same as Warhol's subjects. Long lenses tend to make faces appear wider and something like a 28mm makes them skinnier... Just by looking at his work I would have guessed a 40mm or a 50mm so you're probably correct. </p>

<p>A paying client insists I shoot her with a modern digital camera in the "Warhol Polaroid style".<br /> The SX-70 only shoots at f8 I believe but what lens should I use with my Canon 5d mark iii ( full sensor dslr ) ? 50mm ? 85mm ? Wide angle ? Any help would be much appreciated !</p>

<p>A paying client insists I shoot her with a modern digital camera in the "Warhol Polaroid style".<br> I don't turn down paying gigs so... The SX-70 only shoots at f8 I believe but what lens should I use with my Canon 5d mark iii ( full sensor dslr ) ? 50mm ? 85mm ? Wide angle ? Any help would be much appreciated ! </p>

:/ I knew this was coming. I've been doing MF for 10+ years. First with the Nikon f2s, then hasselblads then slrs then dslrs.. I'd like to switch to auto. All of my strobes and speedlites are set to manual for full control so I have enough to worry about. I take 200-300 photos in a 3 hour session. Pulling manual focus that many times is stressful. Maybe it's just my personality but I always doubt that I'm 100% accurate so I tend to go "back and forth" an extra few times, etc. And the model is always moving. Not a fun process. I'd like to just find focus automafically with the center dot, keep the shutter half pressed then frame the shot. It works great in Quick Mode on my 5d mark iii but I'd like to use my z-finder ( live view ) to frame my shots without it taking forever. Anyone ? Is it worth upgrading to canon's L glass ? I heard AF is faster on those, not sure how significant is the difference.

<p>So I've been using the Quick Mode to auto-focus with great results ( it's so fast ).<br> However, once I got the z-finder ( external viewfinder to magnify the display ) I'm no longer able to use the Quick Mode ( it's not supported in the live view ). I'm now stuck with Live View mode auto-focusing system that's super slow. Is there a secret work around I should know about ? I'm shooting models ( fashion stuff, strobes, speedlites... ) and it's all about click click click. This issue is seriously slowing me down. I'm using Canon glass. Help ! :)</p>

<p>@Mark Keefer I just want to make it clear that imho the 5d mark iii is an amazing buy. The only reason I'm having this issue is because I'm using it with 40 year old manual Hasselblad lenses. I have no issues when I use my mark III body with my Canon primes or zooms. So don't think Canon is going to help me because I'm not using their glass. Btw if I switch to "auto brightness" the problem becomes worse. Manual brightness set to all the way high is the only tolerable option. But thanks to Larry I might have to disable my exposure simulation and get used to "imagining" the underexposed look. By the way if you're just shooting stills you don't really need vintage lenses. The difference between lenses really becomes a factor when you're doing video ( which is 50% of what I do ). So for stills imho the mark iii is very solid and is still an awesome buy and I'll probably start using my Canon lenses more. I wouldn't buy the mk3 for video though. So many better options right now.</p>

<p>@Marcus yes of course. It gets brighter but then I can't take that shot because it would be overexposed.<br> @Jim lol I don't use the LCD to judge exposure- the prob is that sometimes the LCD is almost completely black, so can't focus or compose a shot. But if I take the shot the image is properly exposed and is bright enough.<br> @Larry- very cool ! had it on On. Just disabled it and it sort of solved the problem ( everything is nice and bright all the time now with both vintage and modern lenses ). However I'm so in love with the slightly underexposed look and am used to seeing it on my LCD so now composing is more challenging 'cause I have to guess what it'll look like slightly darker and underexposed by a stop or two.</p>

<p>Why is it that what I see on the LCD screen ( brightness set to full ) is much darker than the actual picture that I end up taking ? And more importantly is there anything I can do to fix this ? I'm shooting wide open using vintage manual Hasselblad lenses on a 5d Mark III.</p>