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john_wheeler6

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  1. Neural Filter to de-jpeg, Camera Raw for tone, Hue-Sat narrow band color adjustment, played with Oil Paint filter on top of the rest.
  2. Thank you for the detailed analysis of this problem. The open question what did the OP do to make it happen. I do not use Photoshop Elements (only Photoshop 20XX) and the problem to me looked very similar to soft proofing in ACR with sRGB other than the result instead of the OPs green. I took the OPs original post with the Green Areas and overlayed in a GIF a screen shot of the raw image brought in with the settings being sRGB in ACR. The highlight clipping warning was turned on. The red of the raw highlight clipping overlays quite well with the green area. I saw no real dependence on whether it was 8 bit vs 16 bit and no real dependence on the dehaze slider. Where there was a big difference was if ACR was set to preview in Adobe RGB (no green) and in sRGB where the clipping was easily seen. Full screen shots in ACR would verify the conditions of the ACR settings and if I am correct, it will show having it set to sRGB causes the issue. Also note when the file is saved and brought through the same path you don't see the red/green highlight clipping as the image is already in sRGB and reduced in gamut. So it explains that behavior as well. So other than the color being green vs red, it fits pretty well. Thought it was worth posting for consideration. John Wheeler
  3. This is the visualize spots mode. Click the keybaord shortcut "A" to toggle it on or off Hope that helps John Wheeler
  4. When amplified with a curves adjustment Layer and ignoring the JPEG artifacts it appears that this is a complete vertical section of green to cyan coloring.It just appears that the red illumination from the RBG LED illumination is very slightly weak (e.g. 251-254 on the reds instead of 255) I am not sure how much uniformity is expected from the V850 or how it behaves when aged. Also, this does not seem to be related to having an image blurred on transparency mode and not on reflective mode. So I doubt this is a root cause issue with your original issue. Just my opinion of course. John Wheeler
  5. Hi JPDupre I have an Epson V800 and no problems so far yet all devices are subject for needed repair/maintenance. I am not looking forward to having to do that myself yet I also figure it is better to "acknowledge reality" and move on to know solutions. That primarily would be giving the problem to experts for repair or based on repair costs the purchase of a new/different scanner. Not sure about Epson's cost for repair yet another resource (which I have not used) that works on scanners (including Epson V series) is: https://www.allrepair.com/what-we-do I am skeptical of doing repairs on my own even with online instructions on how to dismantle the V800/V850. It appears to be something with the mechanism that shifts the focus point between reflective vs transparency (transparency being 2 to 3 mm above the glass surface when it is working). Hope this information is of some help. John Wheeler
  6. Hi Izzy Glad you are looking for where the banding was introduced as that is usually the best fix. Just to show that there are options when you have done all you can and still have banding, the image below was created by adding the splatter filter to the sky. I created a copy layer of the original and then separated the scene from the sky into two spearate Layers and then grouped those separated Layers (original Layer on bottom of stack was not included in the group. I added full spatter with the minimum smoothing on the sky Layer and then used a Layer Mask on the group to adjust the boundary where the splatter took effect using a very soft brush. I believe it removed most of the banding and simulated the original sky noise in the image. Hope that helps some John Wheeler
  7. Hi Izzy Thanks for providing the color version. As it turns out the supplied images are highly compressed JPEG images. To have a decent chance of fixing the image having the full resolution image without compression (e.g. PNG or preferably TIFF) would be really helpful (a link to an online sharing site or dropbox etc since the file will no doubt be large in size). This will help rule out that the JPEG artifacts are contributing to the issue. Also, do you remember when the banding showed up Was it in the original scan, after some PS post processing , or after resizing and compression with JPEG. Those would be good clues. Or having the original scan. Did you scan in 16 bit and post process in 16 bit. That goes a long way in reducing the banding and also there are pretty easy fixes when converting to 8 bit at the end if needed. Hard to know without more info and better image for corrections yet the spacing of the vertical bars were at 64 pixels which is a multiple of the standard 8 bit compression JPEG blocks (it may not be that yet worth fulling out. I have attached copies of your color version that you posted showing only the Hue Channel and then the Saturation Channel. It shows where JPEG is hiding the compression which is in the color components especially where the image colors are pretty consistent (e.g. relatively flat skys). As you see there is not much of the color components to work with as it is all blocked up. Hope this helps for the next steps
  8. Banding is quite common in slowly varying color backgrounds especially when the scans are 8 bit and not 16 bit. Fixes have more options with the color version so best if you could supply that for consideration of options for repair. John Wheeler
  9. Hi @robert_bowring I am late to the thread yet here are a couple thoughts. It has already been suggested that having the raw file for the image would be helpful in tracking down the problem. It also might be helpful (and easier for you) to provide the full exact and original image files on a file sharing site (e.g. dropbox or other). The metadata can be examined that might also help in tracking down the issue. When it is all said it done since you were new using the iPhone, it is likely just pilot error. E.g. I have seen similar types of images when the panorama mode is set (maybe even accidentally) yet you are holding the camera horizontally. The camera is recording a set of images that it will try to stitch back together. Even if you hold the camera still and wonder what is going on, a slight tilt of the camera will copy parts of the image into different locations (as it did in your image). That of course is just a guess. yet having the original image file, the metadata stores which mode of the iPhone was being used which could narrow down what was going on. Not sure it is worth more effort since I believe its not likely to occur again as you gain experience on how to use the camera and camera modes. I will leave it up to you if you want to pursue it any further by providing a link on a shared service to the original files. Just my two cents on it (two quarters if you take into account inflation :) ) John Wheeler
  10. I decided to crop, shift the left portion of image to the right and blend in with a Layer Mask. Made both Layers a Smart Object for some tonal adjustments and a linear gradient adjustment to bring out the mountains a bit. The fence in front was too much of a distraction for me so cropped to exclude it. Just some quick edits and hope you like my rendition.
  11. How about purchasing on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Plustek-Spare-Slide-Holder-Scanner/dp/B000Y19Q46 John Wheeler
  12. Three Hue Adjustment Layers targeting different narrow band colors. Minor masking
  13. Thought I would try and add some color. Similar to a prior challenge First Gigapixel AI to reduce color artifacting needed for this technique Hue Sat narrow band around the near yellows and color shifted to give an interesting color Group Layers as Smart Object Gaussian Blur with Color Blend Add Camera Raw Filter for Clarity and Texture increase Mask beak to original colors
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