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john_johnson33

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  1. <p>Still wondering about C41 and whether I can just use the same times for 500ml for 2 rolls rather than the 1L for 4 rolls they specify in the instructions. Surely just using half the solution for half the amount of film should be exactly the same time right?</p>
  2. <p>The upper display is actually in the body and reflected up into the viewfinder. If only it were as easy as cleaning the contacts!</p>
  3. <p>Thanks Bernard! Your info is very helpful! The upper display in the viewfinder is dead (although for a little while it worked, so long as the camera had been left on for a while). I bought the F4 a couple of months ago (for a very good price, and upon discovery of the fault, I got a bit of money off), and it's otherwise in perfect condition, so I suspect it's probably just a capacitor that's got old and bad, but would probably require a whole PCB to be replaced (unless they hadn't started using SMT by then - the component could probably be replaced). </p> <p>Anyway, I'll get in contact with the ones you've said will probably be good and reasonably priced and see if they can tell me just through email whether they're equipped to deal with the problem.</p> <p>Thanks again,</p> <p>Alex</p>
  4. <p>UK photogs, has anyone used any of the following for repairs (mostly interested if it was for Nikon film cameras or AI lenses):</p> <p>http://www.apertureuk.com/Camera_Repairs_London.html<br> http://www.sendeancameras.co.uk/#/home/4574418786<br> http://www.newtonellis.com/nikon/<br> http://www.camserve.co.uk/ourservices.html<br> http://www.fixationuk.com/Fixation/Repairs%20old.html</p> <p>If so, can you comment on whether you thought their prices were good, and the quality of their work? I have an F4 and an AI-s lens which both need servicing, and want to make sure they go somewhere good. I've heard some pretty bad stories about larger repair centres (Johnsons Photopia et al.), so would rather they went somewhere small.</p> <p>And if you can recommend anywhere else, please let me know.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>Alex</p>
  5. <p>Thanks Ciaran! Your agitations sounds a bit more normal than what was suggested to me, and I'm sure it would work fine for E6 as well. Will give it a go.</p>
  6. <p>Thanks for the reply! You made me realise that the instructions do actually give times for the 2nd, 3rd, & 4th uses - they're not very clear and I'd mistaken them for times for doing more rolls at once. </p> <p>I say Paterson-style because it won't actually be a Paterson, but rather an AP, which looks to have a better lid, so shouldn't be messy, although I don't think they use or come with a stirring rod.</p>
  7. <p>Has anyone used the Tetenal kits (the ones currently available in Europe) with a Paterson-style tank, rather than a Jobo rotary?</p> <p>The instructions Tetenal have on their website for both kits are ropey at best, and on top of that only give times for Jobo rotary processing. <br> If you have done this, I'd very much appreciate to know the times you use, and how much agitation and when. I emailed Tetenal, and the guy seemed to suggest the same developing times with agitation once every ten seconds, which seems a little excessive of what I've seen/read for other kits.</p> <p>On top of that, the instructions for the E6 say maximum yield is achieved by processing 2 35mm rolls in 0.5L of solution (and from what I was able to make out, using each solution three times), whereas the C41 instructions say maximum yield is from 4 rolls in 1L. Can anyone see any reason why 2 films in 0.5L shouldn't give the same yield for C41??</p> <p>And for storing the unmixed concentrates, how much shelf life are people getting out of opened bottles when the protectan spray is used? Is it more than the shelf life listed in the instructions?</p> <p>As I said, I emailed Tetenal, but after a few back and forths I've not been able to get much info out of them, hence the post.</p> <p>Thanks!</p> <p>Alex</p>
  8. <p>Thanks for the responses! And sorry for not replying sooner - I forgot to click 'notify of responses' and then assumed there weren't any haha!</p> <p>I ended up buying it as I figured at this point it couldn't really be anything other than 100f, and your answers seem to confirm this.</p> <p>As I said, I couldn't find any definitive answers either on this forum or others, hence the post.</p>
  9. <p>Apologies if this question has been asked before (although I found no definitive answer when searching through old threads).<br> I'm looking to start using Provia 100f, and as I understand it, Agfa Precisa is some sort of repackage of it which is about 40% cheaper.<br> What I'm looking to find out is whether it's 100f (RDPIII) that didn't pass QC, or 100 (RDPII) old stock that was previously frozen?<br> If anyone has recently bought and used Agfa Precisa, do you have any ideas as to what it might be?<br> This concerns me mainly because I want to use it for night photography, and while the RDPII reciprocity characteristics are pretty good, they're different and not quite as good as RDPIII, so it would be good to know which I'm using in order to compensate properly, although if it turns out to be RDPII I might just suck it up and buy the Provia 100f.</p> <p>And as a side note, if anyone happens to know, I'd be interested to find out what causes film to not pass QC but still be suitable for use?</p> <p>Thanks!</p> <p>Alex</p>
  10. <p>Yeah should've mentioned, with the viewfinder light turned on, the light only works for the lower display. But to answer your question, yeah I tried the light.</p>
  11. <p>Recently bought a near mint Nikon F4. All appears to be working fine apart from the upper display in the viewfinder.<br> I don't recall it working when the camera first arrived, although it was working earlier today, but now isn't working again.<br> I had thought it could be dirty contacts, but then realised that the screens for the upper display are in the body and not the viewfinder (I also read somewhere someone saying that those screens work without the viewfinder attached).<br> The screens don't appear to be leaking at all. Batteries are new.</p> <p>Anyone ever had this problem?</p> <p>Cheers!</p> <p>Alex</p>
  12. <p>Yeah, unfortunately no mention of replacing any of the bulbs. Thanks anyway!</p>
  13. <p>Has anyone replaced any of the lamps/bulbs in their Yashica Electro 35?<br> The battery check bulb seems to have 'gone' (very hard to see, but pretty sure the filament has broken). The bulb appears to be the same as that for the over/under exposure lights. Would be good to know what part to buy if anyone has done this. Presumably an LED of some sort would work fine and would be a lot better that that tiny incandescent.</p> <p>Cheers!</p> <p>Alex</p>
  14. <p>Thanks for the responses. In hindsight I do think the price was at least a bit high, although the condition was very good. I ended up buying a Mamiya 6, which I think will be better for me as I've never managed to get on with WLFs.</p>
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