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john_enea2

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  1. debeng, sorry for the long time to get back to you for your answer! here is a brief summary of the process I do. give it a read and see if it works for you in any way. john B&W reversal film test, just for the hell of it
  2. for my hoya G filters, I use +1 1/2 stop compensation. that's direct from hoya's web site
  3. i had my winder replaced in january and the camera is now good as new. there are winder parts and service available, precision camera still has them, so dont let this scare you off. if you dont mind square, its the best film travel camera. but the prices are insane at this point. john
  4. for color I use 3 film. velvia 50, provia 100 and ektar, with the occasional provia 400x thrown in. All look great in the fuji, I have the same camera and love the results. which I use depends on the light. huge range and I'll shoot ektar then provia. lower contrast, velvia 50. I prefer slide film as it is much eaiser for me to scan than ektar. im not a photoshop expert, so removing the cyan color cast in ektar can be troublesome. using the proper lens filter helps as well.
  5. I use the refillable wine bags for my color chems, which need replenishing. they are perfect. easy to fill and refill, easy to get the air out and with the spout, easy to dispense smaller amounts for replenishment. i have been using them for years and have yet to have any issues https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Fill-Bag-Box-Bags/dp/B07PP9YPK7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=5%2Bliter%2Bwine%2Bbag%2Brefillable&qid=1567016445&s=home-garden&sr=1-4&th=1
  6. I agree with what Ed said, as well as others. if there is only grey sky, filters will do nothing. try doing some tests. This is what I did when I first started shooting with filters many many years ago. Find a nice landscape scene with clouds as well as blue sky. then shoot 1 frame with no filter and then repeat the shot with all the filters you own or will use. I did it with a yellow, dark yellow (G), orange, dark orange, red, light green, dark green and IR. then print or scan the results. a contact sheet really helps here as its way easier to view all the results next to each other. I used a 6x9 camera which made the results large enough to view without a loupe. anyway, it was really helpful.
  7. My camera has the same problem. I agree that its a temp fix, as it worked for me for about 3 months, then it came back again. sent my camera to a famous pentax repair center. They told me after 3 months of looking, that there are no longer parts for the fix, hence they cant fix the camera. Im now in the process of looking for a spare camera to use for parts. sad news, but ne careful with you 67's out there
  8. for bleach, I use a half strength solution of potassium dichromate and acid for twice as long. I dont like having the emulsion come off the substrate. Also, you should look at going with a chemical fogging over a light re-exposure. makes life a lot easier
  9. there is a very good chance you will not have enough developer in the tank to cover the top reel. as such your top roll will have development issues, as in only partial development and it will ruin 1 roll. I use 600 ml for 2 35mm rolls in the tank as developer is cheap, re-shooting shots is not
  10. you can shoot the film with the 720 filter and get IR effects on the film. you can use the red filter and get some subtle IR effect, but it will print like an regular pan film. I actually prefer the red filter effect as you can use it in landscape shots and green foliage will not get dark, it will be much lighter than normal, for me, a very desirable effect. shoot a roll with both filters along with a few shots with no filter and judge for yourself. This film has a longer learning curve than most, but its a very capable film
  11. this is exactly what I do and my results from c41 are great.
  12. I still have a ton of E-6 films in my film freezer. I also still use my projector and really love how 6x6 slides look when projected. What Im more worried about, more than will fuji continue to make film, is that if I buy even more than the film i currently have is whether I will be able to get the chemicals to develop them as I do it myself. Im not sure that the chems will have the lifespan that frozen film will have. could turn out to be like a lot of people who had kodachrome film after the last way to develop them was stopped.
  13. I project both 35mm and 120 and there is a huge difference, even with my smaller 90x90 inch screen. 35mm while better than any digital tv show cant compare to a well shot 120 slide. even 645 slides look great. I have a leica 35mm projector and a hasselblad pcp-80 for 6x6. velvia 120 slides shot with my mamiya 6 are just jaw dropping.
  14. for 35mm, I love the nikon 14-24 and my tiny 28mm f3.5 ai lens. for MF, the mamiya 50mm f4 lens on my mamiya 6 and my pentax 55mm new SMC for my pentax 67.
  15. thanks to fotohuis I shoot superpan 200/RR400s at 160 and develop in beutler 1+1+10 for 9.5 minutes at 68 degrees. very sharp grain but it can be large. but 11x14 prints from 35mm are great.120 prints are amazing. i love that 100 foot bulk rolls are very cheap when bought from germany.
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