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john_davis24

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  1. Sorry I wasn't more clear. The second image is the one with the yellow-pink-orange cast I can't get rid of and the first image with the headphones on is the one that looks color balanced to me with greens and blues. I'm hoping someone is able to bring out greens and blues in the second image (with no headphones) and give it a full color spectrum and balance. Thanks again!
  2. Hi all! I've been photographing a project that a lot of times is just lit with the ambient room light of two GE/Sylvania incandescent lights with no light shades or anything, just clear plastic or metal shades so there is no cast from a lamp shade. Straight light from the bulbs. I'm getting a strange color spectrum in the images taken in this light that I cannot fix in LR or photoshop. It's got a kind of pink-orange-yellow to it that isn't really a cast because if I add blue, it just winds up with a blue cast as well as still having this pink-orange-yellow color balance. It is almost like certain colors - blues and greens- are just missing from the images and so when I change the color balance, it doesn't bring out any green or blue in the image because it's not there to begin with, so it winds up just giving the images a blue cast on top of the pink-yellow-orange color spectrum that's in the images. I'm suspicious that these bulbs are putting out a weird or possibly minimal balance of colors, possibly all the bulbs made in the new overseas incandescent bulb factories do that were not made in the old USA factories that have sadly been closed down. Because if I use an Aperture RGB LED light and set it to the temperature that incandescent light is supposed to be, if I even use the Sidus link app and "color match" the incandescent light in the room using a gray card, and then take an image using only the aperture light that has been set to "the same" color as these incandescent bulbs in the room, the images wind up looking natural with all colors present. If I turn off the Aperture lights and use the incandescent bulbs, I get the weird cast that I can't fix. I've spent hours messing with every tool in LR and every tool I know of in photoshop trying to bring back a full color spectrum in these images and I can't do it. The best I can do is desaturate orange which brings skin tones back to somewhat natural but they wind up just looking desaturated and still missing blues and greens. Here are two sample images of the same person in the same location, one taken with daylight coming in through a large sliding glass door window, which has a natural color balance, and the other is taken with the incandescent light only, which has the weird color cast I can't get rid of. Or possibly is just lacking certain colors. I also have both the jpeg exports and the original Sony RAW files in a Dropbox folder at the following link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mmm8xd4910u2ltf/AADPADbvkYH0lTzMdTgLEc_8a?dl=0 I would love it if someone would take up the challenge to try to color correct this image and make it look natural like the sunlit image. I've got a whole project full of images taken in this light and they all look like the only colors present in them are yellows oranges and magentas. No greens or blues or very little. Maybe there's a technique to bring them back into the images somehow? I would love a way to make them look better. I can provide more examples if anyone wants. Thank you!
  3. <p>I'm having a lot of trouble with this app, it's almost unusable from connectivity issues. It won't connect to my camera much of the time though it eventually does usually, it seems to take a random amount of time to connect, then when it does it disconnects shortly afterward. When I plug everything in it sits there with the "no camera connected" box, and sometimes it takes 5 minutes to figure it out and connect sometimes more. Every once in a while it happens immediately. Sometimes I give up on the app before it connects. Using interval timer shooting I get around 30 shots (at 1shot/10sec) before it disconnects while trying to download an image and I have to force everything to quit and start over, but then it won't connect again when I plug in and I have to sit there waiting for it. Quitting the app and restarting, turning the camera off, unplugging and replugging the USB cable don't seem to make any difference.</p> <p>All computers are Macs running the latest 2 versions of OS (I've tried both in case it couldn't handle the most recent one)<br> I'm using the latest versions of the CCP2 and ViewNX2, and running ViewNX2 so that the images show up there after each shot in interval timer mode. <br /> I've tried both a D3 and a D3s both with up to date firmware, and have the same issue with both<br /> I've tried numerous USB cables with no difference<br /> Multiple USB slots<br /> I've tried 3 different computers now, all new laptops with different OS versions, and no difference. The one I have now has solid state HD, 10.6.8, 2.66 Ghz, 8GB Ram. <br /> <br /> I've tried uninstalling all Nikon apps and reinstalling.</p> <p>I think I have tried everything and isolated all other problems I can imagine other than user error and the app itself, but I can't imagine what I could be doing wrong.</p> <p>It seems like some people have no problem with this application. Can anyone help? I've contacted Nikon and they are not helpful at all, they take weeks to respond and then all they have to offer is "try upgrading your firmware" (I have) or "try updating the application" (I have). And I have tried much more than that as can be seen above. <br /> <br />I'd really like to use this for a project so I can see images on the computer screen as they are taken in interval timer mode. But it's so frustrating when it's constantly disconnecting and I have to sit there waiting...</p>
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