Jump to content

john_boyle3

Members
  • Posts

    846
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. <p>There is a lot of nonsense about this issue, most of which comes from folks who have never owned a button rewind M2. I bought mine used in 1973, S/N 938XXX. The button does not have to be held down on my camera during rewind. I also have an M4 which I bought new in 1967. The M2 has been trouble-free through the years and is the one I use with the Visoflex III, Bellows II and 65mm Macro Elmar for flower photography. The build quality of the M4 is not quite as good and I had to replace the viewfinder on it due to separation on the prism. The lack of a self timer was not an issue for me. The button rewind M2 was one of the best cameras that Leitz ever made and the newer versions only added the self timer feature. If you are looking for build quality rather than "features" there are no better Leicas available than the M2 button rewind model. While photography is just a hobby for me I have put well over a thousand rolls of slide film through my M2 with no problems whatsoever.</p>
  2. <p>Mukul, the next time you take a look at an M2 or M3 observe the "device" that is used to rewind the film. That is what I referred to as the "take-up knob". The M4 and later versions had the "crank". You also mentioned in your post that "After loading, the film advanced only a little." Perhaps we have a problem with semantics. I was simply stating the method that I have been using with my M2 and M4 to prevent the problem that you mentioned. As an aside, I've been using Leicas since 1960.</p> <p>I enjoy your weekly posting depicting the people and events in India. Keep the photos coming.</p>
  3. <p>Most of us have had that problem at least once. There is more than enough film in the cassettes to push some extra through the take-up spool. I usually lift the back door to ensure that the film is properly caught by the sprocket. Also check to see that the red dots inside the take-up knob are turning when the film is advanced. These actions soon become automatic.</p>
  4. <p>Paul, it seems like you made an very good decision. Glad to see that you kept the M2 and Summaron.</p>
  5. <p>Paul, at the very least keep your M2 with 35, 50 and 90mm lenses. That's all you really "need". All the best. John</p>
  6. <p>The rangefinder image is "superimposed" rather than split. It's very accurate and is the preferred method for focusing wide angle lenses. It may take some practice but you will get used to it.</p>
  7. <p>Very fine photo Frederick. It has an atmosphere of its own that does not require people. We all have our own tastes and that picture suits mine.</p>
  8. <p>The Leitz 35mm f2.8 Summaron is an excellent lens and is very well built. If you can do without the additional stop you should give it some consideration. It also takes the common E39 filters that many Leitz lenses use. Those of us that have the Summaron are quite pleased with it. </p>
  9. <p>The oldest catalog I have with the M2 and M3 is #36 dated 5-62. The M3 w/o lens was $297, w/50mm rigid Summicron $447. The M2S w/o lens was $249, w/35mm Summicron $423. I bought my M4 new in 1967 and it was $288 w/o lens, $315 w/50mm Elmar. Hope this helps.</p>
  10. <p>Several Leica catalogs from the 60s and 70s had prices for all of the items included. A Morgan & Morgan reprint of a 1939 catalog also lists prices. I have several of these old catalogs ( they are not for sale ) and may be able to help. Do you have any specific items in mind?</p> <p> </p>
  11. <p>A Weston Master IV would go well with your IIIf. I found one for $2 and had a new selenium cell installed by Quality Light Metric. It's accurate and does not require a battery. </p>
  12. <p>It looks like a fine camera but is there any concern about finger prints or smudges on the touchscreen? I don't have any devices that use a touchscreen thus the question.</p>
×
×
  • Create New...