JLachiw
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I recently picked up a Hasselblad 500ELM in pretty nice shape, though it's jammed. I disassembled the camera a few times, and finally figured out the likely issue. For whatever reason, when you fire the camera, it jams mid-firing sequence, it goes far enough for the mirror to flip up, but stops just short of the lens' shutter fully closing before the exposure, and before the rear doors open. Does anyone know how to fix this issue? At one point I had removed the internals from the camera's shell, but couldn't find a way to remove the large gear that couples from the motor drive to the film advance gear. Anyone have any advice? A repair manual would be incredibly helpful, I did find a 555ELD repair manual, and a 500CM manual, but both cameras have enough differences from the 500ELM that it was only partially helpful. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey all, So I've been having issues with light leaks on my Rolleiflex SL66 magazines, and at first, I was unsure about where they were coming from. As a result, I've had the magazines disassembled multiple times to try and find the issue, to no avail. However, just recently I found the issue, the back plate of the magazine does not fully press against the body of the magazine. Essentially, there's a small enough gap between the back plate and the magazine itself to let light into the film chamber. How should I fix this? I've tried adding some light-proof foam to the interior, but the material I have is too thick and probably shifted the plane of focus a bit. So far, the only solution that kind of works is having a strip of gaffer's tape around the bottom of the magazine. Anyone know how I could fix this? Its not down to the screws being loose, in fact I tightened one of the screws so strongly that the entire head cracked off, which was fun to deal with. Thanks
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Why is my Seiko shutter missing the slow speed assembly?
JLachiw replied to JLachiw's topic in Medium Format
One eBay offer later, and my shutter is looking whole again! Seems to be working perfectly as well, and the assembly fit right into place. Thanks everyone for your help!
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Why is my Seiko shutter missing the slow speed assembly?
JLachiw replied to JLachiw's topic in Medium Format
It does happen to be one of those later 80mm f2.8 lens, but I didn't know there was a increase in value for this lens. Also, is there a distinct difference between blue-dot shutters, and non-blue-dot shutters? I found a potential donor Seiko shutter on eBay, but it is a non-blue-dot shutter, are the internals close, if not identical? -
I recently bought a Mamiya C330s with a 80mm f2.8 lens. I've cleaned and serviced these shutters before, so when its slow speeds weren't working, I decided to crack it open. I quickly discovered the issue: the slow speed assembly is completely missing. Is it actually missing, or is this just an new version of the shutter assembly?
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Hello all, So I recently got a Rolleiflex SL66, and there seems to be a slight issue with the negatives I get from the camera. I think I've narrowed it down the the shutter (see this previous post), but I've been wondering how easy it would be to clean the shutter. The rear plate seems quite easy to remove, only 10 flat-head screws to remove it- at least I think. I've seen photos of the left panel removed, right panel removed, but never the rear panel, so should I assume it isn't a part I should remove? Anyone have any information? I bought the repair manual online for $10, and that manual seemingly glosses over that part entirely. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Anyone know what's hidden behind the rear plate of the SL66? The plate covering the shutter area has several screws holding it on, but even in the repair manual I paid $10 for, there's no description about whats behind it. I imagine removing that would let me check on the shutter curtains, but I don't want some springs flying out at me, or parts of the camera falling loose. I've found photos of both side panels removed, but none of the back panel, so should I assume its off-limits?
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It was unlocked when I removed it, but the key issue is the shutter release acts like the shutter is ready to fire. It can be pushed down entirely but whatever mechanism couples it to the actual shutter mechanism seems to be disconnected.
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Hello all, I currently have a Nikon F2 completely apart, I have the mirror box removed, the top-right and bottom plates removed, and the speed knob and film counter assemblies removed. I initially had an issue where the advance lever was jammed, but now that it works the shutter release won't work. I can release the shutter manually by pushing the release under the bottom plate with my screwdriver, but the main shutter release won't work. Anyone know what the issue might be? Are there some parts out of alignment? Thanks
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I don't know if this will help narrow down the issue, but when cocking the shutter, the seam between the curtains is perfectly horizontal. It only appears angled when firing the shutter. Also, are there any actions I can take before tearing down the camera?
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Last night I checked the shutter with my phone's camera, it can manage some slow-motion but nothing too impressive, and I was able to see that the left side of the shutter starts traveling before the right side. Essentially, what should be a vertical slit is instead slightly angled, so that's what's causing that dark area. Now, anyone know how hard it is to adjust the tensioning for the shutter curtain on a Rolleiflex SL66? I've found quite a few photos of the shutter mechanism itself, and there are two quite obvious tensioning knobs for each curtain. Would adjusting it be as self-explanatory as that, or would it be more complicated?
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Thanks everyone for the input. I think I can rule out processing errors since the mark appears quite consistently in the same spot on negatives, but it does not overlap into another frame. I'll have to look over the camera and the magazine, check if there might be something internally blocking part of the film or causing it to be less exposed. Hopefully it isn't the shutter, I seem to have terrible luck with medium format cameras with focal plane shutters, and I especially don't want to try and find someone to service a Rolleiflex SL66. I can only imagine how expensive that would be. Anyways, thanks again, and I'll be sure to update if I find any solution.
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The camera has vertically traveling film, and a vertically traveling shutter. I used a Pentacon Six before, with a horizontally traveling shutter, and horizontally traveling film, and that camera had inconsistent curtain speeds at 1/1000, so I'd get dark streaks. However, those were across the entire negative, whereas these are very localized. Would bromide drag occur even if it was lab developed? I've used them for several years, never had an issue before.
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Hello all, I recently got a Rolleiflex SL66, and ran a few rolls through it. On some negatives, there is a noticeably dark area at the top of some photos (when inverted from the negatives). I've attached a particularly extreme example of the issue, but that image is unedited: that's how it came out of my scanner. Let me know what you might think it is? Is it a scanner issue, a shutter issue, or a film magazine issue? Thanks
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Recently, I picked up a Wollensak 15 inch f5.6 lens, the kind pulled from old aerial cameras, thats been attached to a Wollensak Alphax #4 shutter. I'd like to start using the lens, but the only issue is the shutter does not have the f-stops marked. Anyone have any tips on how I could figure out and mark the f-numbers, or perhaps someone has a similar lens and I could copy their markings?
