jim_momary

I have a couple of the 1000s. I bought them used in 2000. From what I was told the original owner bought them in 1980 and used them for his wedding photography biz. He used them a lot, but they were/are in pretty much A+ condition even today. I think I've shot about 200 rolls thru them. I have metering prisms for both and several lenses. I have never had an issue in the twenty-some years I've used them. They are magnificent, mechanical beasts. Barring any bad bodies, I think they will go on for many years more. From what I've read and heard, they are the most robust of the Mamiya 645 lineage. In my occasional snooping on Ebay, a lot of the current offerings are pretty beat up and rather exorbitantly priced. I suspect most folks snatched them up as I did when digital pushed them to the "not needed pile". From 2000 to maybe 2010 loads of excellent specimens for peanuts were all over the auction sites. Now that film is in vogue again, the demand is high and that eliminates bargains while the ranks of great specimens declines. Just my 2 cents (now 5 cents with inflation).

Something like this probably - just search on Google for "Amazon Basics photo frame": and look at the the choice for Amazon Basics Photo Picture Frame - 4" x 6", Black The entry I looked at was about $5.99. I've seen them on other fames too, usually low end ala Walmart, etc. There are close up photos of the rear that show the retainer clip. Good luck and not a bad thought for those rascally AL-1 bodies. Back when I made one out of some aluminum sheet and the appropriate screw.

I looked at my FE, FE2. FM and FM2n ... 1. they all have that same amount of light leak past the raised mirror as in your picture - evidently that's normal. 2. the only foam strip is the mirror bumper foam, none along the sides or back 3. your bumper foam is a bit thicker than on any of my bodies 4. the picture of the shutter gap seems "possibly" wider than my bodies show. It's hard to tell with differences in lighting and perspective angle. However, any "gap" can only occur in mid-stroke of winding on a frame which is fairly brisk transient (the shutter arms and the "gap" hide behind the film gate in the unwound or fully wound state, as you probably have seen). 5. your fogging seems to also be mostly on the bottom of an image. This is the top of the film in the camera as the image is inverted by the lens when the exposure is being made. That might imply an upper door leak. Many variables here. Hope this helps some. Jim

Zoomed in view of that frame:

Alan, here is a quick sample I shot this evening using that same lens. First image is the whole frame, the second image is a crop and represents about 2% of the frame's coverage. Shot at F3.5, on tripod, with led lighting, shutter speed about 1/2sec at ISO100 (on tripod, obviously). I focused manually using live view zoomed all the way in. Granted, it is black writing in a white background which "enhances" apparent sharpness, but you will note this lens should be sharp as a razor blade when used properly and all things are OK with the unit. Images follow-

Less silly now ... speed of blink related to how slow the shutter is ? I.e., fast blink for really slow selection which probably will result in shake versus slow blink which might result in shake, maybe possibly. Beyond that, no idea really. Good luck.

Dunno. The only comment from this knucklehead would be - " 'cuz it can!" Happy shooting. (Obviously I've spent too much time today raking leaves). :o)

On the Yashica Zoomtec (cousin of sorts, perhaps), the blinking green LED is warning of a slow shutter speed which may result in camera shake/blur. A solid on green LED means go ahead and take the shot. It also has a red LED that means flash ready (off) or not ready (on). It also has a red LED blink if you are too close to the subject. (Basically, if the red is on, you can't take a shot). Beyond the above ... I cannot guess for your particular model.

Mine's bigger than yours ! The World’s Largest Photo, Taken with the World’s Largest Camera Jim

Yep, it does. Does the Fuji GA645Zi have a manual cable release? A manual is available for it at the Free camera instruction manuals, camera instructions, free film camera user guide, camera manual, camera instruction manuals, Canon camera manual, Nikon camera manual, Ricoh camera manuals, Sears Camera Manuals, camera instruction manual, replacement cam site.

Sandy ... do you mean an MF-21, i.e. the data back? I thought the F4 had its own built in motor drive? The "capturing when in focus" is let's say someone walking to you .. they come into focus (even with manual lens I think). When the camera decides focus is achieved it snaps the photo. That is what Nikon has called "trap focus". I've used it myself a few times with fairly decent success. Some comment here - Freeze focus for Nikon F4 Jim

Bob - The C220 meter finder is called a CdSPorro Finder. A somewhat rare bird.

Also, these links, for example, speak to some aspects of DIY filing of rings. Christoph Breitkopf - Nikon AI Conversion Nikkor AI conversions DIY - Photographs, Photographers and Photography Read these resources, and others that exist on the web before entertaining any thought to chew on a lens! This table extracted from the first (above) - It took me a while as I cut and tried so as not to "overshoot" the filing. Tedious yes, but doable. I won't say everyone can do it, but it does work. YMMV. Jim

Ben - To supplement what Joe said, I hand filed my own Ai conversion on the 55 1,2 non-Ai. In order for me to reach 1.2, I stopped filing just about on the centerline of the fork's screw (shy of F 8). On my D7000, the 1.4 "zone" is pretty narrow wrt to F2.0 and it rapidly pops into F 1.2. Attached is a pic of the lens area in question. Good luck. Jim

Amen Sanford.