jim_metcalfe

Look for a Rollei pistol grip. They usually have a Rolleifix attached and sell for less than the Rolleifix alone. I don't remember the details, but it was easy to remove the Rolleifix.

The inscription reads: To comrade E. V. Prokopovich from GVP. February 2, 1963.

Years ago, astrophotographers called this technique "integration printing". Since they were using massively pushed B/W films that yielded very coarse-grained negs, the idea was to print multiple negs of the same subject onto the same sheet of paper. The grain pattern in each neg was different, but the image was not. Needless to say, this required serious darkroom skills. I recall reading about this in either Astronomy or Sky and Telescope magazine in the seventies.

I don't have a Bronica but I understand that the 135w back makes frames that are 24x55mm rather than the standard 24x36mm. So a 24-exposure roll would only yield 16 of the longer frames.

If the film came out of the cassette curling the wrong way, the user may have just rewound the film the wrong way, i. e., counterclockwise.

Looks like a Voigtlander Vitessa 500 SE. http://www.collection-appareils.fr/x/html/camera-4737-Zeiss%20Ikon%20-%20Voigtlander_Vitessa%20500%20SE.html It must have an adapter for flashcubes.

His stuff is still up at westfordcomp.com

<p>If I remember correctly, the F3 meter doesn't work until the frame counter reaches 1. I don't recall if the display stays blank or not, but the shutter only fires at the mechanical default speed of 1/80th second until frame number 1. If that's not it, try new batteries. Also try removing and reseating the prism.</p>

<p> I'm pretty sure the 240 and 450 refer to the focal lengths of the lenses in millimeters. Assuming that's true, I expect the shorter focal length lenses to be thicker and therefore heavier.</p>

<p> "To Wacław Martinek in memory of your stay at the Pioneer camp of the "Gomselmash" factory. July 1973. City of Gomel."<br> Gomel is a city in Belarus. Gomselmash is a Soviet-style name for "Gomel agricultural machinery" or something to that effect. The company still exists, per Google. Pioneers were the Soviet version of Boy and Girl Scouts. I'm guessing Wacław Martinek was a Polish visitor. <br> </p>

<p>Try turning the shutter sped dial to the "M90" setting. You may have to press the small chrome button next to the dial while turning. If it unjams, you can usually return to shooting. The M90 (or M250) setting will work on all the compact film Nikons (FM, FE, FA, FE2, etc.). If this doesn't work, you may have a trip to the repair shop in your future. Good luck.</p>

<p>If you remove the lens and look into the lens mount, you will see a chrome-plated button at about the 4:30 or 5 o'clock position. If you push it in and out while looking in the viewfinder, you will see the aperture scale move up and down. There is a matching pin on each FD lens to signal the camera what that lens's maximum aperture is.</p>

<p>That's a GN of 80 feet. Metric would be just under 25, so the 20 setting on the GN ring will probably give you the best results.</p>

<p>A GN of 40 meters is about 130 feet, so I'd expect some underexposure. By the way, what camera is it? Do you know how far it stops down? If it only goes to f/16 it may not allow you to focus closer than its smallest aperture allows when it's in "flashmatic" mode. At GN 40 that would be about 8 feet. If you're shooting negatives the film's tolerance for overexposure will cover you if the GN you select on the camera is a little too low.</p>

<p>The guide number on your flash is probably in feet. The GN on the camera is probably in meters, since it's the same color as the metric distance scale. 100 feet is just about 30 meters, so 28 is probably the closest to your flash's output. Bear in mind, the guide numbers on flashes tend to be optimistic. Try some shots at 28 and maybe a few at 20. Good luck!</p>